Motor electrical problem?

[tdonoughue]

So, went out with the boys this weekend (men's retreat for the church) and brought my boat out to Lake Livingston. Had a great weekend, running all around, rescued one neighbor boat, ruined my finger (different story), and all was good.

Leaving this morning to re-trailer the boat, I could not get the starboard engine to turn over. It would crank, but no joy. Like no spark on any cylinder. Port engine started right up. So no battery issue. I tried and tried. Pulled the cover and pushed all the electrical connections on the top of the engine (going to the coils, etc.)--nothing. So finally took off at no wake speed to limp to the boat ramp. About half way there, tried it again and it fired up.

Thinking we might be out of the woods (and since my trailer was not yet at the ramp), took it for a little spin on the lake. About 3 minutes into the spin, going 35 or 40 mph, suddenly the port engine just dropped out. I immediately stopped (we don't like hydrolock) and was able to restart the port engine on the first try. Went directly back and trailered up and brought it home.

I am thinking that I have an intermittent electrical issue with the engine electrical system somewhere. I didn't put YDS on it yet (I will try to do that this week). Meanwhile, anyone have a similar issue or a thought?

 

[Glassman]

Ground?

 

[tdonoughue]

Good thought. Both grounds are to the engine battery (of the 2 battery system) directly, so both on the same post. And the engine cranked constantly and well. Or is there another ground I am missing?

 

[Gym]

So, went out with the boys this weekend (men's retreat for the church) and brought my boat out to Lake Livingston. Had a great weekend, running all around, rescued one neighbor boat, ruined my finger (different story), and all was good.

Leaving this morning to re-trailer the boat, I could not get the starboard engine to turn over. It would crank, but no joy. Like no spark on any cylinder. Port engine started right up. So no battery issue. I tried and tried. Pulled the cover and pushed all the electrical connections on the top of the engine (going to the coils, etc.)--nothing. So finally took off at no wake speed to limp to the boat ramp. About half way there, tried it again and it fired up.

Thinking we might be out of the woods (and since my trailer was not yet at the ramp), took it for a little spin on the lake. About 3 minutes into the spin, going 35 or 40 mph, suddenly the port engine just dropped out. I immediately stopped (we don't like hydrolock) and was able to restart the port engine on the first try. Went directly back and trailered up and brought it home.

I am thinking that I have an intermittent electrical issue with the engine electrical system somewhere. I didn't put YDS on it yet (I will try to do that this week). Meanwhile, anyone have a similar issue or a thought?

YES, I had the exact same issue on mine when I first bought it. While I don't disagree with @Glassman, and the ground is a definate possibility, mine was a single spark plug. It would start and run, then quit. When I pulled the plugs, they all looked good but I noticed the electrode on one was broken, If you held the plug upright it looked normal. If you turned it upside down the gap would close up as the electrode was broken.

Even if you changed your plugs last week you may have got one that was dropped at some point fracturing the insulator which over time could cause a high tension leak to ground.

 

[tdonoughue]

God, I love this group. Excellent suggestions both. And I have spare plugs on board... Gonna check both items (other suggestions gladly accepted also)!

 

[Bill D]

Doesn't the lanyard have separate contacts for each engine? That would let the starter run without firing the engine. If it was making bad contact, it could cause and intermittent issue. Maybe cycle it a few times?

 

[tdonoughue]

Another good one. Thanks. I will try that as well. Should have thought of that one while on the water.

 

[Andy S]

Doesn't the lanyard have separate contacts for each engine? That would let the starter run without firing the engine. If it was making bad contact, it could cause and intermittent issue. Maybe cycle it a few times?

You can electrically disconnect the lanyard switch to see if that is the issue. On my 2007 behind the speaker at the drivers foot is where the lanyard electrical connection are located. The lanyard switch contact must be closed to provide it protection which seems to be the failure position of these switches.

 

[itsdgm]

Also check the clean out hatch switches. Did you happen to jamb anything else into that compartment? Would explain the cutout while possibly jumping a wake.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

My money is on the safety lanyard.

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

Or as previously stated the rear hatch switch for that engine is my guess also

 

[tdonoughue]

I thought that the rear hatch switch would not allow the engine to crank either? No?

Oh, and on the little run we took, the lake was glass... Wish I had jumped a wake--that would have been fun.

Again, my thanks to all for the input!

 

[Andy S]

I thought that the rear hatch switch would not allow the engine to crank either? No?

Oh, and on the little run we took, the lake was glass... Wish I had jumped a wake--that would have been fun.

Again, my thanks to all for the input!

You are correct, the cleanout hatch switch will prevent the motor from turning over. When your port motor dropout it could have been caused by the cleanout hatch flexing enough to temporarily trip the hatch switch.

When I purchased my boat it had a bad lanyard switch and it caused the same issues that you just experienced. I ran one full boating season with the lanyard switch electrically disconnected before I replaced it.

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok, that is what I thought. It would be rather coincidental for both the cleanout hatch switch and the lanyard switch to go out at exactly the same time. The whole boat was working fine all weekend up until then. Certainly possible they both went overnight, but very unlikely. I will be checking the lanyard switch and the plugs straight away, though. And the negative cable.

 

[Glassman]

My money is on the safety lanyard.

YOU HAVE MONEY ???

Well, then that's a horse of a different color!

I simply strongly dislike (hate is too harsh for a Monday morning) electrical problems. The ground came to mind first, but as you see, it could be any one of a number of things...I like to step back and retrace my steps on the day things go bad. If the lanyard was in any way touched, then by all means - check that out.
If you didn't lift the rear hatch, then it's probably not there...on the other hand, if it was opened and closed all day long then it's a prime suspect.
You see where I'm going with this? Good - I don't. I'm going for a 'nuther cup of coffee....good luck with this.

 

[davel501]

Also check the clean out hatch switches. Did you happen to jamb anything else into that compartment? Would explain the cutout while possibly jumping a wake.

+1 had the same problem when my boat was new and it was the clean out hatch switches.

 

[tdonoughue]

Ok, time to revive this old thread and try to fix this issue.

I am convinced it is the lanyard. Why? It happened again. Same engine with the same symptoms. This time, rather than fuddling about, I yanked the lanyard, put it back in, and it fired right up.

So, the question now: How do I get to that blasted switch? Obviously there is a nut on the top, but if I pull that it will allow the switch to fall to the bottom. Not good. There is a cup holder nearby. If I take that out, I think I have it made. But how do those come out? I gave it a yank (having heard somewhere about them flying out if you don't have the boat covered...), no dice.

Anyone have a clue for me?

Takk!

 

[Gym]

I don't have a 240 but on my boat I would pull the throttle quadrant out for easy access.

 

[davel501]

On my boat there is a little wooden panel that is held to the floor with a big "L" bracket that I get to from under the seat behind the captain's chair.

 

[Andy S]

Ok, time to revive this old thread and try to fix this issue.

I am convinced it is the lanyard. Why? It happened again. Same engine with the same symptoms. This time, rather than fuddling about, I yanked the lanyard, put it back in, and it fired right up.

So, the question now: How do I get to that blasted switch? Obviously there is a nut on the top, but if I pull that it will allow the switch to fall to the bottom. Not good. There is a cup holder nearby. If I take that out, I think I have it made. But how do those come out? I gave it a yank (having heard somewhere about them flying out if you don't have the boat covered...), no dice.

Anyone have a clue for me?

Takk!

On my '07 there is a speaker at the drivers right foot, I was able to remove the speaker to reach the switch and the two electrical connections.