Mr1 intermittent cylinder drop.

[bronze_10]

All 4 injectors test at 12.1.... spec is 11.5 to 12.5

And when I connect tap leads from a battery the injector clicks...

 

[bronze_10]

So I am now leaning towards the ecu repair I had done failed... but before i jump the gun on that help me brain storm of what could cause only one injector to itemitantly cut in and out? As best I can tell everything is plugged in and the wiring harness looks good.

 

[bronze_10]

So nearly twice the amount that's supposed to be in there?

Yes.. it was a lot... had a lot of fuel in it.

 

[bronze_10]

@Beachbummer .. now that I have done it it is easy...

 

[bronze_10]

@buckbuck... I have seen videos where people will use a screw to screw down into the screen and pull it out with plyers.... then simple tap a new one in. I don't think this is my issue. It was something new I learned about the injectors..

 

[Brandon_SC]

I wonder if the internals of the injector are clogged, leading to reduced volume & spray pattern?

 

[bronze_10]

I thought of that too But the injector would still click using the yds software on the buzz test. And it doesnt.. but it will activate in my bench..

 

[Brandon_SC]

Just working from my head if I were in this same situation... I would then probably test the end terminals of the wire harness that connect to the injector. I would think that there has to be a way to check voltage being applied during the yds injector test at both the ends of the wiring harness as well as the starting point of the ecu supplying voltage to that injector’s wires.

 

[Brandon_SC]

That to me would tell me if there’s root cause at the ecu or a shortage in a wire.

 

[Beachbummer]

Since it's all out of the boat, if it was me, I'd rig the electric only with as little effort as possible, and use the static test to hear them click in the YDS. Just make sure the fuel pump is handled.

 

[bronze_10]

It would go so fast I don't think my ohm meter will detect it. But why can't I plug the injector into the plug for it and then test it with the yds... put a bolt in the fuel line and run the buzz test... I mean it would tell me if it's working or. Ot with a different injector... the other side of this is my ECu has a one year warranty on it. I have to have it at the company by the 20th for them to test it. If it tests bad they will fix no charge... if it's fine then I will be charged for testing.

 

[bronze_10]

I think I am gonna pull the ecu tomorrow and send it off. I know the injector is good but I already have 4 coming so I'll just install the 4 new ones. And I may just put the throttle body back on while waiting on the ecu to come back... and see what they say about the ecu and go from there... at any rate I will have a good throttle body and injectors.

 

[Neutron]

You need a noid light that will go into the connector for the injector to see if it flashes the same pattern across all 4. Thats the only good way to see if its getting a good signal from the ecu

 

[bronze_10]

@beau think u said u were gonna have to change injectors soon... is there anything u want me to take a picture of while everything is on my work bench for u?

 

[Beachbummer]

Can you point to the fasteners you needed removed before the whole thing came out? and which did you need to remove to get the injectors to your hands? Thanks for offering!

 

[bronze_10]

Uhhhhh.......... lol..... well now that I know how to do I can do it quicker... u have to take off the throttle cable.. and a some other things.. mainly it's the gas line and the right main bolts and the whole thing lifts out. There one little vacume relay I had to take off. When the injectors get here I place an reassembling 90% on it on my work bench..

 

[bronze_10]

These are the pics I took as I removed the throttle body... I planned on just removing the fuel rail and injectors alone but the vacume relay thing in the front over top of the number one injector won't allow it. I unbolted it but I honestly don't thin I needed to. The throttle cable it made to quick detach without adjusting it... and the fuel line in the front was a little bit of a pain but it wasn't too bad. I waited an hour trying not to take out the whole throttle body until I realized there is no way to get to the bolts I need while it was inside that air box. Several electrical relays are wire tied to the top but u just cut those and it allows u to lift it out and reach the injector plugs. ...

 

[bronze_10]

Got the new inectors in yesterday...in stead of paying 130 bucks for one I paid 15 bucks....they are identical. They came with the upper oring but not the lower gasket. I ordered those from partzilla for like 3 bucks each... when they get here i will put the throttle body back together. I also shipped off my ecu back to carmo USA who fixed it the first time. I hope to have it back before next weekend. Last time they were very fast..... maybe too fast...

 

[bronze_10]

Today would be a perfect day to put the throttle body back on. It's in the 70s, in June, in North Carolina! If I only had the gaskets.. this will guarantee it will be blazing hot when the gaskets do arrive.

 

[Beachbummer]

So based on your pictures, As I look to extract mine...What else did you need to remove after you got the assembly out of the boat? Any chance when you are re-installing you can mark what you needed to remove, and how it went back together?

I have the shop manual, but the parts are all apart in the diagrams, and it lists removal of all parts, so it does look as helpful as It ought to be to remove just the injectors. Best of Luck!