Need help - Lots of water draining from plug on '17 212X

[Cambo]

A rubber cork is stuffed in mine the water pours through the cracks as fast as that drain could let water out . The multiple through hull fittings have silicone that had a lot of non adhering spots I have peeled the loose junk re siliconed. Every hose clamp took a few turns without putting to much stress. Screws and self stick neoprene was added to both parts of the hatch . Under regular conditions I probably had a gallon or two while surfing the bilge pump runs 2 or 3 times while out . Next I'm looking into something for the cleat maybe some rubber hose wrapped on the on the shafts. If I was in fresh water I wouldn't care I don't like all the salt water sloshing around down in the hull .

 

[F.M.]

What about something like this put inline in the clean out tray drain hose? For less than $15, I'm willing to give it a try.

Amazon.com : Watkins Replacement Water Check Valve for Hot Springs Spa, 3/4" - 35233 : Gateway

 

[JDRacing]

What about something like this put inline in the clean out tray drain hose? For less than $15, I'm willing to give it a try.

Amazon.com : Watkins Replacement Water Check Valve for Hot Springs Spa, 3/4" - 35233 : Gateway

So long as the valve doesn't require any pressure to open it in the vertical position with the flow arrow pointing down, that seems like it should work (assuming the size is correct).

 

[F.M.]

Anyone know the hose size right off hand?

 

[Cambo]

Unless you seal everything up the valve will create more restriction. It literally pours into the bilge that little opening and the location only let out about ⅓ the other ⅔ finds it's way into the bilge the hatch does not seal out any water. It looks like it may divert some rain water at best and block items from falling in, rubber cork in while in use is the best option.

 

[F.M.]

I've sealed everything:

-Weather stripping under the tray
-Silicone on screws
-Silicone around tray after installing
-Silicone around center removable hatch
-Bead of silicone on center hatch door to help the actual seal contact door

The drain is the only thing I haven't sealed. I never thought about water coming up the drain. I always assumed it was coming in around the deck lid when coming off plane.

 

[Neutron]

I never thought about water coming up the drain. I always assumed it was coming in around the deck lid when coming off plane.

I have never seen water come up to the second tier when coming off plane. Mine is always dry. Never in cupholders either.

If you open the clean out hatch and bounce the stern you will see water come right up the drain tube. It can shoot straight up

 

[Cambo]

So the water is slowed to a trickle I think a few more screws in the center removable hatch will seal it up completely. For for the original poster @GoVols01 water is most likely getting in from this and one of the multiple through hull fittings the silicone used did not adhere properly to the hull and some had no silicone


Before and after



this is with the #2 rubber cork pulled




neo prene and additional screws installed on both pieces



water does not flow efficiently when the cork was pulled





solution to water back flowing is a #2 rubber cork if for some reason this hatch area filled with water the simple solution is pull the clean out plug and all the water will exit through the clean plug shaft in less then a second

 

[GoVols01]

Another tale-tale sign is if you notice usually the clean out hatch underside will be wet. This is from the water shooting up and out of the drain like a spigot when you come off plane.

There’s always a bunch of water on top of my clean out port plugs. I’ll tell the dealer to cork the drain in the compartment and put water on top of the area while on the trailer to see how much leaks past the access panel. This is likely the source, but I can’t rule out other items the impeller shafts or water intakes for the ballast bags. At this point in the season, I’m going to insist the dealer keep the damn boat and only give it back to me when it’s no longer leaking. If he can’t do that, then I’ll Lemon Law the SOB. This is BS that I have to diagnose and remedy this myself! This is why I bought a new boat!

 

[Cambo]

@GoVols01 Have them tug on all the silicone pieces that are applied to the through hull fittings most will probably be loose . This is my fourth jet boat with close to 20 years on several models in mostly salt water and they all have some water that comes out of the hull drain. Some could be from the high pressure water pulled in from the impeller and small amounts weep in . Yours was excessive but always expect some from a cup to a gallon seems to be the norm. None of the salt water has had and adverse effect on anything other than some of the hose clamps getting rusty. Your boat will probably never see salt water but see what they can do this is a customer service dealer issue a good dealer would try to help out.

 

[Cambo]

Success it worked went out today I’m not sure if it was multiple things that were done but loaded the boat with ballast did some surfing and kept an eye on the bilge pump. Nothing pumped out that I saw pulled the drain plug and no water came out.

I will post pictures and list some more info tomorrow.

 

[Cambo]

All the steps taken to prevent water intrusion

Rub rail removed on both sides to about the tower cleaned with acetone GE silicone used under the black portion applied to the hull seam, the port side was done first the bead was decent and almost non squeezed out . So I went heavier on the starboard side and some squeezed out the factory used something that looked to be intact but it was fairly easy to do and I realized there must be a void behind the black piece and the hull allowing the silicone to lay up for added protection. I'm not sure this was the place water was entering but there were about 40 screws that penetrate the hull I filled every hole with silicone during the re assembly. Someone posted info about the rub rail needing to be worked on by a pro it really was very simple and if you can use an electric drill with a screw bit you are more than proficient just don't un bend the metal trim at the corner.

Above I posted pictures of water poring then streaming out of the drain. Below was with more screws added to the center small removable hatch this made it just a drip at a time. I must have missed the drip in this photo

This is the neoprene used on both parts of the hatch the large portion removed installed on the bottom side and the small center piece. The center is the main point of water infiltration. When water is sitting in the clean out tray thicker foam could work better due to the plastic deflecting when more screws were used it seal it up to a drip

Amazon.com: Foam Tape Neoprene Closed Cell Rubber with PSA - Peel and Stick Adhesive one Side. Weather Stripping, Insulation, Sponge, Gasket - Many Thicknesses and Lengths.: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Foam Tape Neoprene Closed Cell Rubber with PSA - Peel and Stick Adhesive one Side. Weather Stripping, Insulation, Sponge, Gasket - Many Thicknesses and Lengths.: Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

There has been mention of water not washing up onto the second tier of the swim deck while surfing yesterday I watched water slam up there. The clean out hatch door had a 3 rib white seal that does nothing to prevent wash up water form entering the tray area. That will be my next search to seal that as well




When the hatch was out I pulled any loose silicone cleaned the area with acetone and used GE silicone to re seal everything that could be seen that was previously done at the factory . There was one through hull fitting that could have been part of the issue it had almost nothing on it and there was a weird sediment pool leading me to believe water came in from the past and dried up. Im not sure but i think it could have been the hose from the entry of the cooling water it had on of these spring clamps and it was on the port side. They do not hold up well in salt water the clamp and the hole were coated in silicone and I added stainless worm drive clamp to the end of the barb for security encase that continues to rust and fail. I could not locate the same fitting on the starboard side

also all hose clamps were tightened

 

[OCMD]

Mine pours out a few gallons only after I have been tearing it up for hours on the tubes/skis. If a relaxed trip, some trickles outs for a minute or so. But if tearing it up? It pisses like a racehorse for a few minutes.

 

[swatski]

Someone posted info about the rub rail needing to be worked on by a pro it really was very simple and if you can use an electric drill with a screw bit you are more than proficient just don't un bend the metal trim at the corner.

Any boat dealer will tell you any evidence of a DIY silicon rub-rail repair is a huge red flag.

—

 

[Cambo]

Left one part out the cleat on the surf was removed re siliconed and I wedged heater hose with a plug over each end. When looking into some way of sealing it from the outside I stumbled upon multiple images showing that they come with a water drain deflector for the bolt side. Oh and both bolts were only hand tight so know they are snugged up better than the factory install.

Bone dry now !!! It was some work over a few days but easy I hate bringing it to the dealer for warranty work it takes longer to hook it up and tow it there and back then doing it myself and I know its done right. Salt water splashing down on all those clamps is not a good thing

 

[Cambo]

Any boat dealer will tell you any evidence of a DIY silicon rub-rail repair is a huge red flag.

—

If Yamaha didn't miss the bead on the interior of the hull I would have not looked into this when its done there is no evidence but the pocket is filled between the rub rail and the hull it makes pefect sense for this to have been filled. This was a common occurnce of water intrusion on the older models and this was the way to remedy it . Thers is not an external bead any thing that squeezed out was wiped clean with acetone and I was amazed how little was squeezed out, nothing is visible and the forty through hull screws are all filled.

 

[GoVols01]

Another new boating season, same old leakage problem from my ‘17-212X. I took the boat to Center Hill Lake and did a lot of cruising. We noticed the bilge pump kick on while anchored. When we pulled it out at the end of day and pulled the plug, gallons and gallons of water drained once again. To rub salt in the wound, onlookers laughed at the amount draining clear across the parking lot and back into the lake.

My boat’s 3 year warranty is up in June. I just called the dealer, who’s looked at this thing at least 5+ times since new, and I told them I want this thing lemon lawed. I do not accept this as normal and refuse to have to diagnose and remedy this myself. If I sea trialed a used boat and observed this, I’d run or lowball the seller. Not acceptable!

Stay tuned.

 

[F.M.]

I used to have a similar problem. I started putting a bead of silicone faucet grease around the drain plug and clean out plugs and have very little water in the bilge now and only have the pump kick on when we've have wet kids climbing in and out of the boat all day.

 

[Speedling]

So is this not the typical broken plastic scupper or hose issue? Just saw this today on new posts.
I can't believe you have something so bad that can't be found in a day of testing.

 

[GoVols01]

I can't believe you have something so bad that can't be found in a day of testing.

As I said, the dealer has had the boat a bunch of times and has tried several remedies to correct this issue to no avail. While the boat’s under warranty, why the Hell should / would I risk voiding the warranty by trying to diagnose and fix the issue myself? I’m perfectly capable of doing so, but I’ll defer to the last sentence again. Additionally, if I do find something that’s broken once it’s out of warranty, the expense to fix it is on me.
I really like this boat and if successful getting it lemoned, it’ll be difficult to find anything I like just as much to replace it. The current 212X colors are fugly and the dash doesn’t look as good without the analog tachometers. No one else makes a boat with as nice of a deck layout either.