Need Help With New Used Boat Milky Oil!! Story From Day One

[14SX190]

It looks like my used boat is starting to show its true colors.

I went in with idea to check everything at the water test from day one weeks ago. It performed like expected and had compression, I was happy. Never checked the oil! BIG MISTAKE
Flushed it when I got home and it sat until I went out for the first time a few days later.. Came home flushed it and away it went in garage.
No alarms went off of lack of power during both outings
I am aware of starting boat first then water. Water off then engine off. I don't know history from previous owner

It had the marbles sound in the pump at water test and didn't sound better when I took boat out first time.
I watched videos and sure enough 6 bolts and the whole assembly came out. Followed other JB's post on using car tire to wedge ratchet on one end and breaker bar on other end prop came off like butter. Had to get drive shaft rethread as head got mushroomed trying to remove shaft from pump.
All the parts ordered from Partpak and waiting for delivery

In the meantime, I went to do ribbon delete. I hope I got the right PN#MWV-RIMUK-FZ-11. Otherwise it will be for sale.
Anyone can confirm. There are two sizes or change from model to model? And there I saw the milky oil.

Took oil cap off and it was like butter. My little harbor freight pump could not draw any oil from dipstick.
I read poring ATF down crank case would help and with my buddies west marine oil pump worked much better.

It has been 5 gallons later and still looks dark shade of brown. Is there something the dealer does under vacuum that will recirculate oil until new oil is pumped through? Its getting expensive.

[HASH=3752]#swatski[/HASH] has thread if you remove some bolts on the front of the motor you can get suction tube lower into oil pan VS dipstick. Anyone else try it that way. To get to one in back of engine you need to be contortionist
2014 Yamaha SX190 (RX1800DN) Crankcase | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse pn#27. Leaves a space to get into oil pan. May have to try that trick

So I keep reading and found a couple threads about the exhaust manifold having casting problems. So off it comes. I have attached picture for reference and of the gaskets? Do those gaskets look OEM? Some of the black paint was stuck to water jacket port(in picture) on top of all that scale. Is there a way to clean that with removing head? The exhaust manifold looks intact. Opinions? Is there a service manual link I can reference torque numbers for reassembly?
Also, there is a blue wire near the tip of exhaust to a fitting right before rubber coupler to water box. Is it electrical?

Could it be oil cooler? Need to start reading up on testing procedure.
Any other possible explanations as to water in the oil? Anyone local to me willing to give me a hand

I appreciate everyones time in reading thread and help in solving milky oil mystery so I can start using Boat.

 

[FLBulldogger]

Just for clarification in your profile it says you have a '20 SX190? If not please update is this a '14 SX190 and did you buy from an individual or a broker? As far as the ribbon delete I am not sure I follow, I did one on our '13 SX190 and didn't need any extra parts, it was just removing the ribbon and putting things back together. As far as I know if you run a pump out tube down the oilstick tube it should go to the drain pan, you may have to adjust the trailer to get some of the rest of the leavings but thats about it. If you have already retrieved 5 gals out of the pan I would be very concerned that the block/head is compromised and what you are seeing is water and oil (mainly water) mixed together. I don't know the exact capacity of the oil pan but I would be very surprised if it was 5 gallons, so that would lead me to believe that the block is compromised. When you took the boat out was there water in the engine compartment? I really hate this is happening to you but I'm sure @swatski will chime in if he has the time and other with more hands on experience with the internals of the 1.8l. Good Luck! I hope I am WAY wrong.

 

[14SX190]

Just for clarification in your profile it says you have a '20 SX190? If not please update is this a '14 SX190 and did you buy from an individual or a broker? As far as the ribbon delete I am not sure I follow, I did one on our '13 SX190 and didn't need any extra parts, it was just removing the ribbon and putting things back together.

Thanks, Done
Individual
I ordered the filler ring. Some run with out it

 

[14SX190]

Just for clarification in your profile it says you have a '20 SX190? If not please update is this a '14 SX190 and did you buy from an individual or a broker? As far as the ribbon delete I am not sure I follow, I did one on our '13 SX190 and didn't need any extra parts, it was just removing the ribbon and putting things back together. As far as I know if you run a pump out tube down the oilstick tube it should go to the drain pan, you may have to adjust the trailer to get some of the rest of the leavings but thats about it. If you have already retreived 5 gals out of the pan I would be very concerned that the block/head is compromised and what you are seeing is water and oil (mainly water) mixed together. I don't know the exact capacity of the oil pan but I would be very surprised if it was 5 gallons, so that would lead me to believe that the block is compromised. When you took the boat out was there water in the engine compartment? I really hate this is happening to you but I'm sure @swatski will chime in if he has the time and other with more hands on experience with the internals of the 1.8l. Good Luck! I hope I am WAY wrong.

The west marine oil pump pulls out pretty much what I put in. So it's staying in the block as engine compartment in clean until I messed it up.
Dry as bone.
No warnings, drop in rpms,

It may need dealer visit to investigate head but I would take it off and take it. I hate paying shop fees that I am capable of doing my self.

[HASH=3752]#swatski[/HASH] I have seen either on SDF or GH. He has a plethora of threads from his 190 that will take days to go over

 

[WREKS]

Did you do a compression test? That could start to tell you if there is a breach between a water jacket and a cylinder. I had milky oil and that was the problem. I documented it on this website.

 

[14SX190]

Did you do a compression test? That could start to tell you if there is a breach between a water jacket and a cylinder. I had milky oil and that was the problem. I documented it on this website.

Before I went for water test I looked for numbers online and asked what was normal. No real answer to post or posts were all SC numbers,
none for NA
180 was the top end 150 was the average.
I had 160 across with 10% on cylinder 3.

Is that a leak down test? can it be done with out exhaust manifold one? Do you watch compression gauge for drops?

Can't stand I have my engine in pieces but I'm confident I will rule out all know reasons I can do myself before trip to dealer.

 

[WREKS]

When l did compression test, I removed all plugs except cylinder being tested. Also left safety lanyard connected. That is easier on battery and no fuel is delivered. If compression fails, engine probably has to be removed from boat to work on it.

 

[14SX190]

Anyone have a DIY leak down tester for oil cooler.
Its a 300 dollar yamaha tool pn#90890-06840

I saw on another thread there is an o ring under valve cover that could be cause of leak.

 

[tdonoughue]

You have a whole lot going on here. Might want a separate thread for some of it. Looks like you have the oil issue, the ribbon delete question, the head gasket questions, oil cooler questions, compression test... Lots going on.

Problem is that with so much going on you have introduced new variables. For example, with the head pulled, whatever compression test numbers you had are not valid, because you may now have gasket issues.

Number one objective with milky oil is to get the water out. That is done by changing the oil a bunch and then running it, if you can, at high operating temp for an hour or two to drive off the water. Sometimes when running you get more milky oil, which is what indicates a bigger problem.

Previous owner may have simply flooded the engine. But now with it disassembled, you can't run it to drive off the water or to figure out if more water appears. Then given the pictures of the gasket, that doesn't look like it is going right back on.

I guess if I were in your shoes, I would forget the oil cooler and the ribbon delete and focus on getting the gasket and head put together so I could run the thing. Meanwhile, I would probably WD40 the pistons and rings. It will make starting a mess, but it may save them from some rust. Once the head is together, get that thing running with fresh, cheap oil so it is good and hot. If you get interested milk, then you may have a block or oil cooler problem. But usually, the milk stays basically the same and decreases as the water is evaporated. And you change the oil again and again until it runs without the milk.

My 2 pennies...

 

[WREKS]

@tdonoughue Your 2 pennies makes a whole lot of cents. And I would reuse the existing gaskets for now. They are stainless steel. Give them a coat of spray paint and reuse them.
@14SX190 190 Give yourself some time. Get the service manual for your boat. Get YSD for the future. If you have a compressor, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive leak down tester. But first comes the compression test I would do it on the engine cold and warm.

 

[Cambo]

Exhaust manifolds look good . Is this the Tr1 motor ? How many hours

 

[zipper]

Exhaust manifolds look good . Is this the Tr1 motor ? How many hours

1.8l motor and @WREKS no Yds available past the 2012 M/Y. Unless you want to spend a lot of $$ Or take it to a dealer.

 

[WREKS]

Thanks @zipper!

 

[I_squared_r]

Are you sure its "marbles in the pump" or you have a bad rod bearing from water ingestion? Get clean oil in it, run it, and listen real good to that bottom end. Then like was said by tdonoughue, run it in the water and see if more water ingestion is happening. Everything else takes a back seat until you can figure that out.

 

[14SX190]

You have a whole lot going on here. Might want a separate thread for some of it. Looks like you have the oil issue, the ribbon delete question, the head gasket questions, oil cooler questions, compression test... Lots going on.

Problem is that with so much going on you have introduced new variables. For example, with the head pulled, whatever compression test numbers you had are not valid, because you may now have gasket issues.

Number one objective with milky oil is to get the water out. That is done by changing the oil a bunch and then running it, if you can, at high operating temp for an hour or two to drive off the water. Sometimes when running you get more milky oil, which is what indicates a bigger problem.

Previous owner may have simply flooded the engine. But now with it disassembled, you can't run it to drive off the water or to figure out if more water appears. Then given the pictures of the gasket, that doesn't look like it is going right back on.

I guess if I were in your shoes, I would forget the oil cooler and the ribbon delete and focus on getting the gasket and head put together so I could run the thing. Meanwhile, I would probably WD40 the pistons and rings. It will make starting a mess, but it may save them from some rust. Once the head is together, get that thing running with fresh, cheap oil so it is good and hot. If you get interested milk, then you may have a block or oil cooler problem. But usually, the milk stays basically the same and decreases as the water is evaporated. And you change the oil again and again until it runs without the milk.

My 2 pennies...

The milky oil issue is my biggest mystery. I found it by doing the ribbon delete. No problems with that other than if I got right PN for spacer?
Before I disassembled EM I went through the 5 gallons of oil. Running engine with new oil and then sucking it out.
I went to EM thinking I had a bigger problem. I have gaskets ordered already. Is taking compression again with out EM is not possible?


@14SX190 190 Give yourself some time. Get the service manual for your boat. Get YSD for the future. If you have a compressor, Harbor Freight has an inexpensive leak down tester. But first comes the compression test I would do it on the engine cold and warm.
[/QUOTE]

Got one already.
Will check today on the way back from work.

Exhaust manifolds look good . Is this the Tr1 motor ? How many hours

~139 hrs 1800cc NA

Are you sure its "marbles in the pump" or you have a bad rod bearing from water ingestion? Get clean oil in it, run it, and listen real good to that bottom end. Then like was said by tdonoughue, run it in the water and see if more water ingestion is happening. Everything else takes a back seat until you can figure that out.

Yip, as soon as pump came off I started engine and it idles and runs fine with no bottom end noise.
I have had other 1800 and sound was normal.

 

[WREKS]

@14SX190 @tdonoughue I repeat-When l did compression test, I removed all plugs except cylinder being tested. Also left safety lanyard connected. That is easier on battery and no fuel is delivered. That is how I did mine. Doing it cold is good start. For compression test, it does not matter if EM is installed. Please, report your findings.

 

[14SX190]

@14SX190 @tdonoughue I repeat-When l did compression test, I removed all plugs except cylinder being tested. Also left safety lanyard connected. That is easier on battery and no fuel is delivered. That is how I did mine. Doing it cold is good start. For compression test, it does not matter if EM is installed. Please, report your findings.

Thats the way I normally do it.
Checked numbers twice. Every time a solid 180 across all four
Numbers are higher than first recorded at water using same gauge.

Good news gallon 6 I am starting to see fresh oil.
Going to clean EM ports with CLR try to clean head passages carefully. Plugging exhaust ports with rag and tape as precaution.

Reassemble EM back out with less bolts to make slipping in new gaskets easier when they arrive.

That will give me opportunity to fire engine again and test oil cooler by removing bottom hose feeding it. And then hooking it back up and see if change in oil color. I hate to of wasted 6 gallons of oil to not test oil cooler if that were to be problem and start flushing contaminated oil again.

Still trying to find or make homemade pressure tester. I can use gauge from compression tester and a few fittings to connect hoses up and set my compressor at designated PSI. Called dealer and they are charging 250 if they have to take out oil cooler or 60 if I bring it to them
To remove it, just remove bigger bolts attaching to block and remove lines correct? I think that would a wise course of action to avoid contaminated oil again.

Opinions?

 

[WREKS]

@14SX190 Thanks for reporting! Are you going to do a compression check on the engine after you have run it for a few minutes on the hose? That will give further confidence in the readings you have gotten so far.

 

[WREKS]

Reassemble EM back out with less bolts to make slipping in new gaskets easier when they arrive.

Not sure if that is a good idea.

 

[14SX190]

@14SX190 Thanks for reporting! Are you going to do a compression check on the engine after you have run it for a few minutes on the hose? That will give further confidence in the readings you have gotten so far.

Will confirm, but I am positive it has compression. Can't run it on hose until I piece EM back together. It likes to shoot fire out of side if I start it.

Not sure if that is a good idea.

Its only to be able to start it and run it on a hose for short periods. I need to continue diagnosing. Ill use the every other EM bolt and two from the bottom. Don't want to have remove 20+bolts to replace gasket
Ports cleaned up nicely with some vinegar. Ill post pictures