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Need to upgrade to Class IV hitch but my 2010 F150 has factory tow

jcyamaharider

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Would it work though, on some steeper ramps?

Yes it would still work, but I would disconnect in the parking lot before backing the boat in. Those aren't really made for sharp turning. I always disconnected mine when i backed the camper into its spot.
 

Speedling

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Even more confused now.
I have a v-5 hitch with a v-III rating?
Wtf is wrong with this? V-5 should have a 2.5" square not the 2".
In any case, I believe my trailer and boat are both less than 9800 so we're good.
 

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haknslash

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Even more confused now.
I have a v-5 hitch with a v-III rating?
Wtf is wrong with this? V-5 should have a 2.5" square not the 2".
In any case, I believe my trailer and boat are both less than 9800 so we're good.
Just know that’s so long as you use your weight distribution hitch. It’s only 5,000 lbs if pulling with your factory hitch and standard 2” ball receiver..

That V-5 is not the Class Size of hitch and does not mean it’s a Class V hitch. V-5 is minimum testing/rating system of trailer hitches established by the Trailer Hitch Manufacturers Association. You will see V-5 on nearly all oem vehicles equipped with a tow package. It’s on mine as well. My hitch and yours are both Class III based off your numbers.
 
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2kwik4u

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Good old system integration right there. Why have two brackets when one will do? YAY value engineering!

Did they offer a class IV on your year truck? If so what are the chances of getting that from the dealership and it having the proper bumper brackets?
 

Speedling

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Just know that’s so long as you use your weight distribution hitch. It’s only 5,000 lbs if pulling with your factory hitch and standard 2” ball receiver..

That V-5 is not the Class Size of hitch and does not mean it’s a Class V hitch. V-5 is minimum testing/rating system of trailer hitches established by the Trailer Hitch Manufacturers Association. You will see V-5 on nearly all oem vehicles equipped with a tow package. It’s on mine as well. My hitch and yours are both Class III based off your numbers.
That makes more sense!
Camper is heavier at 3300 dry and supposed max 6000 max but i always have wdh because that sway control is nice!
Boat is just a 21' but i guess if i ever looked at the bigger boats, 5000 lbs with trailer loaded would come and go!
 

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This thread got me curious so I had to check mine again. 2014 f150
20190220_113025.jpg
 

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Boat is just a 21' but i guess if i ever looked at the bigger boats, 5000 lbs with trailer loaded would come and go!
I suspect there are a bunch of guys running around towing 23 and 24ft boats that are over 5k lbs without a WDH and that receiver setup.

*edit*....This article is a little over the top, but has some good info and a good review on the Reese WD hitch setup for use with surge brakes.

New Weight-Distributing Hitch Solves Serious Liability Issues - Consumer Feature - Truck Trend

@haknslash Any reason other than appearance you don't want to use a WD setup and keep the reciever you have on the truck?
 
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haknslash

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Guys over on the Moomba forum says WD hutch just not ideal for boating as it will bind the bars when making the sharp turns and backing up down steep grades. I also don’t want to scratch the gloss paint on trailer from constantly attaching and removing the bars. I’d rather just have the right receiver hitch the job and be done with it.
 

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can someone elaborate on the anticipated issue on towing say " 6,000lbs" without the WD. I have been towing my 240 and my truck has the same label as @haknslash.

Note: some of you owe me a new truck. When you bullied me to trade in my Pilot for an F150, nobody told me that I have to tow my boat without fuel and oil on it.
 

Mainah

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FWIW my class IV is rated for 1,045 lb direct load tongue weight which is more than my truck should ever have on it IMO. I have a up spec 600 lb class 3 draw bar for the boat and an insane up spec solid class 4 drop hitch for heavier stuff if needed. Another consideration before dropping more money into the current truck will be engine, transmission, and gear combo. Personally I have a 5.7l v8 6 speed with 3.55 axle. In my case the truck is capable of taking more tongue weight than total weight with the normal 10% rule for most trailers given the 3.55 axle. The flip side is I get better fuel economy when not towing compared to the 3.92 axle. In any case more than capable for my boat and not worth dropping big money on a newer truck with a 8 or 10 speed transmission at this time.

All truck makers will say that a WD hitch is recommend for greater than 500/5000 tongue/total. The amount of sway and droop will be larger dependent on the balance of the trailer, spring type of the truck, and tires on both the truck and trailer. An 8 ply or more tire will ride like crap when not towing but is great for towing and heavy loads, Air suspension is expensive but will level the trailer, radial trailer tires will resist sway more as will a 15 inch or bigger trailer tire. Most important will be the balance of the boat and trailer being at 7% (correct for tandem axle boat trailer with inboards).

All of this is to say lots of factors come into play and manufacture recommendations are aimed en mass and not at specific custom setups. I would be perfectly comfortable towing a 7.5K lb boat without a WD/sway setup with the right tires, air pressure, ride height, suspension, etc..
 
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djetok

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This thread got me curious so I had to check mine again. 2014 f150
View attachment 88350
Checked mine as well. From the window sticker, I have Max trailer towing package. 11,500 lbs tow capacity
https://www.ford.com/cmslibs/content/dam/brand_ford/en_us/brand/resources/general/pdf/guides/17RV&TT_Ford_F150_r3_Nov8.pdf
Max Tow Package nets you:

Includes:
• 3.55 Electronic-locking rear-axle
• 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness
• 36 Gallon fuel tank
• Auxiliary transmission oil cooler
• Engine oil cooler
• Class IV trailer hitch receiver
• Pro Trailer Backup Assist with Tailgate LED
• Smart Trailer Tow Connector (standard on LARIAT and higher)
• Integrated Trailer Brake Controller
• Upgraded front stabilizer bar
• Upgraded rear bumper
 

jcyamaharider

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Guys over on the Moomba forum says WD hutch just not ideal for boating as it will bind the bars when making the sharp turns and backing up down steep grades. I also don’t want to scratch the gloss paint on trailer from constantly attaching and removing the bars. I’d rather just have the right receiver hitch the job and be done with it.
Exactly that is why I said you would have to remove the bars in the parking lot.( 2 minutes tops ) Not sure how a WDH would scratch the trailer though. The brackets stay on the trailer and you just unclip the chain or whatever your binder is. Granted you need a WDH that works with a surge trailer brake if that is what you are getting.
 

2kwik4u

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Guys over on the Moomba forum says WD hutch just not ideal for boating as it will bind the bars when making the sharp turns and backing up down steep grades. I also don’t want to scratch the gloss paint on trailer from constantly attaching and removing the bars. I’d rather just have the right receiver hitch the job and be done with it.
The brackets are attached once and done. The bars then attach to the brackets. Steep grades and tight turns can be an issue, however like someone else mentioned, I would drop the WD bars before backing into the water. You're not gonna rip the hitch off the truck going slow and turning on the ramp.
 

jcyamaharider

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I think I am in the same thinking as @Mainah. I know of a lot of people out there pulling inboards in the same weight category with half tons and not even batting an eye about their hitch.
 

haknslash

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Oh for sure people tow over their hitch’s capacity without batting an eye but I’m not gonna roll the dice lol. My luck would not work that way :D

I am now thinking a equalizing WD hitch might be my best choice. My truck has the highway gearing and with it being a 2WD with FX2 sport suspension (factory lower than regular truck) I may need some help with sag and putting the weight towards there front tires would help. More expensive than what I was thinking of doing but I could find one used maybe in the FB marketplace to help save some $.
 

Mainah

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Bottom line is if one can get the tow vehicle and trailer level with the correct trailer balance, without a material amount of proposing or sway, and the components ( hitch, frame, suspension, tires, brakes, engine, transmission, axle, etc) are up to snuff for the loads then one will be fine. In fact if one does all that probably better than 75% of what I see on the road. The 7% trailer balance for a boat is a big differential on the impacts to droop and proposing. As opposed to the 500/5,000 recommendation for WD it would be more like 500/7,143 with a stock class 4 setup. Put on good tires, balance the trailer to 7% and then see if you can get the truck and trailer level. If so jump up and done on the trailer tonge and see how much it bounces (porpoising) and make sure it does no hit or rest on the bump stops (if is does in the driveway stopped with you jumping, it certainly will out on the road. If it is not level or it porpoises too much then bag the rear end and call it a day. That all has its limits though as the side wind profile gets bigger and the weight gets toward the top end limits additional equipment such as a WD or anti-sway hitch may be needed.

There are multiple physics principles at play. Understanding them to certain degree certainly helps make a decision and there are multiple sites that explain with diagrams. You however don't need to be an expert in live load, deflection, moment of inertia, fulcrum, etc to know that a severely unleveled or unbalanced trailer setup is going to be less than good at 60 mph or that a 35 foot camper is going to pull a half ton truck around when hit with high wind from the side.

Just remember that if you get into an accident that you may be at fault if outside of the rated/recommended limits which includes not using a WD hitch when recommended.
 

swatski

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I can’t read this whole thread right now, the problem with WD hitches is not the steepness (or incline/decline) per se, it’s the transitions.

 

Mainah

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Since tires are relevant and the fedex guy just dropped of my new wheels and tires figured I would share. Does not take a physics wiz to figure out these ultra grippy 3k lb rated tires will do the job for me. The tread pattern looks really good too IMO. They won’t last 40k miles but the performance will be top notch. A little less sidewall over my stock 20s is not the best for towing but certainly not an extreme low profile which would be bad for towing. These are part of my solution to satisfy my desire for a new truck but not actually buy a new truck for the next few years (personal property tax on vehicles is high here and needed new tires anyway). Black center caps are on the way and will be paired with black lugs on a black truck. Can’t wait till my 15 yo gets home so I can teach him how to change a tire with the stock roadside kit. After that out comes the 1/2 inch lithium impact (Tim the toolman grunt inferred).

8100AFD4-7408-4BD1-83D3-2B97B070C1C3.jpegA9198E1B-C0D1-491C-B956-E7CA43058507.jpegC737C71B-93A8-447D-A820-86C0B8B219F0.jpeg
 
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haknslash

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My tires are 305/40R22. Not the best for towing but hopefully won’t be too rough. I usually run lower tire pressure for a smoother ride and more even/longer wear but not sure what psi I should run them with the new boat. I will have to play around with the psi a little to see what works best.
 

Mainah

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My tires are 305/40R22. Not the best for towing but hopefully won’t be too rough. I usually run lower tire pressure for a smoother ride and more even/longer wear but not sure what psi I should run them with the new boat. I will have to play around with the psi a little to see what works best.
I know the many things make a difference once talking about getting super accurate with pressure for load. I don't know what the best answer is for all the different combos beyond more pressure for more load up to the tire sidewall rating. I run 35psi for daily 40psi for long tows in my current setup. Plan on the same with these new ones unless someone tells me differently for soft compound V rated light truck 305/45 R22 tires. I may have to do some googling on my specific tires now that you have mentioned it and I am curious.
 
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