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Need to upgrade to Class IV hitch but my 2010 F150 has factory tow

haknslash

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Well as it turns out my truck has a stupid hitch design. Hitch and bumper are together. This is so stupid for them to design it this way. After reading in the Ford F-150 forums it seems even if I seperates the factory hitch from the bumper I wouldn't be able to reinstall the bumper and I would need to find the oem bumper brackets. So stupid! I went to Curt mfg site they don't show they offer the lower hitch for my 2010. They only go back to the 2015 trucks. I went on etrailer and the only thing they offer that goes under the factory receiver is a stupid expensive $635 hitch by TorkLift https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...leid=201019068. Man this is a kick to the nuts! Do you guys know of anyone else that makes one for ~$200 or so like all the other hitches? Why is that thing so expensive? Surely it can't be the only thing out there for my 2010 truck with factory tow. Help a brother out there has to be other F150 guys on here that have upgraded and had factory tow package.
 

GiddYupJoe

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Freakonomics in its finest @haknslash. Time to buy a new truck to match the new boat! Sorry I am no help to your actual question.....
 

PJ73

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You know, Tundra's have more hp and torque... Come to the dark side...
 

bronze_10

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Freaking fords! My f250 has been in the shop since before Christmas... looks like a whole new rear end rebuild, from wheel to wheel... to the tune of 4500 bucks!. Should have looked for a dodge a little longer! It appears I can not help your actual problem either.... I just feel the ford pain with u brother!
 

AJack

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I'm a GMC guy... zero issues with my 2013 3500. Yes, I'm not providing any help to the situation, but found it interesting to note that Ford builds their rears like this.
 

Speedling

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2004 f150 and 2010 expedition. Both tow package. Both hitches easily accessible.
Do you have like a harley edition or something with a special bumper?
Send a pic or two.
 

2kwik4u

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No reason you couldn't custom fabricate one. I know a shop and an engineer that might be willing to help. Not gonna beat that $600 price though. Most likely that expensive due to the engineering involved in avoiding whatever piece part integration Ford did to save $0.38/truck during assembly.

My GM's have ALWAYS had the receiver tied into the bumper. However, this has always been with two bolts into the bumper in the center. It's a cheap and easy way to use the steel in the bumper to help distribute the load around. To bypass, just unbolt and the bumper and it's brackets remain in place. Little more "modular" than what your Ford appears to have.

Another thought.....We have a Kurt dealer here in town. They do all kinds of custom work, and I'm sure you aren't the first '10 F150 that has needed this upgrade. Have you reached out to any of the local places? My suspicion is you aren't gonna find this equipment for $200, but they might be able to point you in the right direction, or have a solution that works for less than $600.

Also, have you run the numbers on the new boat with your existing truck? I'm sure you have, but I'm curious how those work out. What's prompting you to move to the higher rated hitch? Tongue weight? Overall pull weight? How's your axle ratings look in comparison to the load? Have you checked the load rating on the tires? I would hate for this to turn into a "give a mouse a cookie" scenario where you have to add springs, then tires, then trans cooler, then steering cooler, etc. Just curious, not accusatory.
 

Mainah

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It sounds like no real good options. Perhaps a local welder can take a look at beefing with some direct to chassis plates/welds. May just end up costing the same as what you have found already though. Ford doing this dors boggle my mind as the factory tow package on my 04 and my 12 ram 1500 quad cab sports were both class 4.
 

Speedling

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Ok so i did a little research.
The 2x2 receiver is the same on class 3 and 4. Obviously the weight distribution aspect is in the hitch part but the class is more of a strength rating for the added pressure.
I have been doing a weight distribution hitch on both my trucks and previous truck for probably 6 or 7 years now.
The camper is probably right at 6,000 loaded. I hardly put any pressure on the weight distribution part but love the sway control on long hauls.
I wonder hard it would be to beef it up?
Or construct one?
Looking at models online the design is almost identical but perhaps slightly different mounting?
I would get a fabricator as suggested and they can build you anything.
Perhaps even take out the original square 2x2 and get a thicker replacement and then weld an extra bracket. I am sure that is far cheaper!
Super duties and 3500's all come with the clas iv
I think i will check into my trucks now and possibly grab the welder just in case.
My wife hates my projects.
 

Mainah

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Also check out the curt manufacturing website directly.
 

zipper

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Speedling

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Ok more research.
There are two different tow packages depending on year and options!
There s a tow and max tow.
One (depending on year) has th iv and the other iii.
I am trying to see per year what is what and if that means you can retro fit.

What are you towing that is that much over th 6000 lbs? I bet the reciever handles plenty fine with a weight distribution hitch but if you are going to do it more than once down the driveway i would beef it up.
 

haknslash

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That Curt will not work with my 2010. They work for 2015+ trucks.

I think I’m just going to cut my old one out and install this one that is for a F150 w/o factory tow. 2010 Ford F-150 Trailer Hitch - Curt

My factory hitch is only rated for 5,000 lbs without using a weight distribution hitch. My new boat and trailer will be over 6,300 lbs fueled up and with gear.

973071DE-EC78-477D-8F7C-0CE6D8E26463.jpeg
 

jcyamaharider

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Speedling

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swatski

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haknslash

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haknslash

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This is some pics of my factory hitch. I think I’m just going to remove the bumper so I can have access to the hitch bar and cut it off leaving the rest of the brackets and back plate so I can reattach my bumper. The aftermarkey Class IV hitch has arms that mount at a different spot in the frame and I think I could make that work.

7008DBB0-ACB2-4E04-AE3F-5FB8A11FAB1A.jpeg91CCFDBE-4BAE-4AF3-95FD-084415267985.jpegDA076EBD-30E4-486A-A942-E375566F2559.jpeg565C229B-4664-496B-840A-0A8B8FF1EBC3.jpeg1A4EC250-572E-413B-95CC-848A48DE0752.jpeg
 

haknslash

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I'm a GMC guy... zero issues with my 2013 3500. Yes, I'm not providing any help to the situation, but found it interesting to note that Ford builds their rears like this.
It’s not just ford. Many oem tow packages are made this way. Most people don’t know this because most people don’t upgrade their hitch. Some trucks or SUVs actually have the hitch backing plate WELDED into the frame! I know one thing is for sure my next truck will either have a minimum class IV hitch or no tow package at all that way you can get aftermarket and bolt up no issues in 15 minutes.
 

Speedling

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Would it work though, on some steeper ramps?

Most likely yes. I have put my camper through hell to the point i replaced the drop axles with straight because i kept hitting bottom when going up and down.
The sway bar has its own set of ball on either end so that has pivot Points and the weight Jacker bars basically pivot on a chain typically.
Perhaps a shop that installs these type of things would have better answers for you but I've never seen a hill that I had issues with going up or down with the trailer. I would vote him out my trailer before I would mess up the hitch by far.
 
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