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Newer 24ft boat in shorlander trailer must do mod!

Finally got around to weighing my trailer tongue. 425lbs. I figure loaded boat is around 4,000 lbs so by the 10% rule I'm looking fairly good. By the 7% rule I could loose 100+lbs. My 212x came setup overhanging the bunks already, as mention earlier in this thread, so only option is to move the axles up. Not sure I want to get into that over 100lbs. My F250 could care less about the tongue weight up to now, but we will be moving to a Yukon next year so guess I'll see how it likes that weight before I make any decision.
 
I'm confused what is the model were talking about?
 
I'm confused what is the model were talking about?

The thread morphed over time to be less about a specific model and more about most Yamaha setups delivering with too much tongue weight and the mods to rectify that situation.
 
I'm picking up my new 2019 242x in a few weeks, I'm interested in reducing tongue weight if you can repost the information.

TIA
 
I'm picking up my new 2019 242x in a few weeks, I'm interested in reducing tongue weight if you can repost the information.

TIA
Not trying to be a smart ass, but go to the beginning of this very thread for the info you seek...
 
Well mine seems to have come preset pretty good from the factory. I weighed mine last week. Total boat and trailer weight (full gas and everything in the boat that we have for it right now) was 5540, the tongue weight was 440 (but had a floor jack holding the tongue up at the ball hitch point so that probably is a subtraction of about 30 pounds). So with the recommended 5-7% I'm only a 1/3 of a percent over the higher end (by @22lbs). I'd say that's pretty darn good and I can live with that, I am not going to make any adjustments for now. Eventually as my boat gear and mods start to increase I'll revisit it but even still it should only take maybe a couple of inches of sliding the winch post back to account for that.
 
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Well mine seems to have come preset pretty good from the factory. I weighed mine last week. Total boat and trailer weight (full gas and everything in the boat that we have for it right now) was 5540, the tongue weight was 440 (but had a floor jack holding the tongue up at the ball hitch point so that probably is a subtraction of about 30 pounds). So with the recommended 5-7% I'm only a 1/3 of a percent over the higher end (by @22lbs). I'd say that's pretty darn good and I can live with that, I am not going to make any adjustments for now. Eventually as my boat gear and mods start to increase I'll revisit it but even still it should only take maybe a couple of inches of sliding the winch post back to account for that.

What year and model do you have?
 
Alright, I moved my axles up 10 in and the bow stop back 3 in, tongue weight was about 300 lbs (guess) started pulling to the lake and could feel and hear trailer bouncing up on the ball (not ideal) but kept driving. Drove about 30 miles when I started having horrible trailer sway at 65 mph, my truck (2018 f150) showed message (trailer sway exceeded) and started applying brakes to slow down to 40. Trailer sway would start at around 60 mph, so I pulled in to the next town to move the bow stop forward thinking it was too light on the tongue, when I noticed I had lost my rear trailer tire. This was caused by the rear fender getting pulled in and rubbing the tire.

Long story short, I would only move my axles 10 in forward max so that you don't get the trailer bouncing up on the ball.
Second if you ever have horrible trailer sway at 60, you probably lost a tire.
 

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Alright, I moved my axles up 10 in and the bow stop back 3 in, tongue weight was about 300 lbs (guess) started pulling to the lake and could feel and hear trailer bouncing up on the ball (not ideal) but kept driving. Drove about 30 miles when I started having horrible trailer sway at 65 mph, my truck (2018 f150) showed message (trailer sway exceeded) and started applying brakes to slow down to 40. Trailer sway would start at around 60 mph, so I pulled in to the next town to move the bow stop forward thinking it was too light on the tongue, when I noticed I had lost my rear trailer tire. This was caused by the rear fender getting pulled in and rubbing the tire.

Long story short, I would only move my axles 10 in forward max so that you don't get the trailer bouncing up on the ball.
Second if you ever have horrible trailer sway at 60, you probably lost a tire.
10 inches forward seems to me like quite a bit.
Also if you didnt get the axles square, that could have caused the tire to wear, overheat and blow
 
I marked and measured before and after. The back tire did roll off a curb leaving my driveway, my guess is that is when it bent the fender. You can see this in the attached pictures. Also I have put about 200 miles on the new tire and no issues.
 
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