NMEA 2000 and the 1.8L

[Dan_NC]

Lol, sound familiar @bronze_10

 

[FloJet]

I'm happy to show you but you might not be happy to see it! It's an install that's not exactly simple. I'm thrilled with how it turned out though.

20170918_163456

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

20170919_192808

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

20170921_131022

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

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• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017
• 2

Wow Wow Wow. You the man on that. Looks very awesome. When do you go into production with group buy?

 

[Yamaha212limiteds]

Wow Wow Wow. You the man on that. Looks very awesome. When do you go into production with group buy?

need to know if you can build one for an 18 212 limited, this is what have been talking about, but no one seen to know. Im trying to replace the analog rpm, with instruments app on the simrad go7.

 

[FloJet]

I'm happy to show you but you might not be happy to see it! It's an install that's not exactly simple. I'm thrilled with how it turned out though.

20170918_163456

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

20170919_192808

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

20170921_131022

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017

20170921_161409

• gmtech16450yz
• Sep 28, 2017
• 2

Oh wow that's amazing. Very nicely done. What you charging to get mine done like that?

 

[Wisefam22]

@Yamaha212limiteds he didnt replace the analog rpm he just moved them above the connect screen and flush mounted his go9.

Very clean look I must say.

 

[Sbrown]

@Yamaha212limiteds he didnt replace the analog rpm he just moved them above the connect screen and flush mounted his go9.

Very clean look I must say.

He also raised the top of the dashboard to make room and built a new dashboard to house everything.

 

[AJack]

Just get a piece of Starboard. Create a template then cut the Starboard like you would wood. Keep your analog tach gauges zip-tied behind the console, as the data is routed through the gauges to the Connext.

 

[Wisefam22]

@AJack think he is hoping to run it into his simrad not the connext

 

[Mainah]

Cutting aluminum is very easy. To get it perfect cut with a jig saw very close to the line and finish with a belt sander and dremel. Sand ii out and finish with steel wool for a brushed look that is not too reflective. Wrap if desired. 1/8 inch should work well. For best results in cutting metal clamp the work piece well to limit vibrations.

 

[Betik]

Cutting aluminum is very easy. To get it perfect cut with a jig saw very close to the line and finish with a belt sander and dremel. Sand ii out and finish with steel wool for a brushed look that is not too reflective. Wrap if desired. 1/8 inch should work well. For best results in cutting metal clamp the work piece well to limit vibrations.

The facia is easy because it is flat , but how do you modify the souriunding parts above the console? To get the curvature right is real tricky

 

[Mainah]

The facia is easy because it is flat , but how do you modify the souriunding parts above the console? To get the curvature right is real tricky

So how do you build the dash as oposed to the dashboard so to speak. That is much trickier. Making a mold from wood and using fiberglass is one way. Cutting out the parts of the existing one then fiberglassing or sheet metal to get the needed ne contours then recovering is another way. From scratch with pieces of thin gauge aluminum is another as it is much easir to bend. Thermal bending plastic is yet one more but that can be tricky.

Lets keep seeing pics of custom dashes.

 

[AJack]

I used Starboard, first time working with it. It's a Garmin Echomap Plus 64CV, didn't have to raise the dash hood. No issues with it on the water.

 

[Wisefam22]

@AJack you have tachs GIS behind the dash and use connext screen for them or do you have them tied into your plotter?

 

[FloJet]

Oh wow that's amazing. Very nicely done. What you charging to get mine done like that?

Yup it's out of my expertise on this one. Ill just dream for now.

 

[AJack]

Tachs behind the dash directly to the Connext. The Garmin units has two types of NMEA thingies, but I read on here that no one has solved how to tap into the proprietary Yamaha connections. I rely on the Connext data.

@AJack you have tachs GIS behind the dash and use connext screen for them or do you have them tied into your plotter?

 

[Mainah]

Tachs behind the dash directly to the Connext. The Garmin units has two types of NMEA thingies, but I read on here that no one has solved how to tap into the proprietary Yamaha connections. I rely on the Connext data.

The context boats with the techs rely on the tachs for the gps and radio canbus to connext. You can can even test the techs through the context screen. When I was reading all the PGNs on the nema network in my boat the standard one for rpms was not there but there were a bunch of proprietary ones. My best guess is that the tachs are still getting the signal through the radio can bus (yes I know that sounds odd) or engine can bus and feeding the data back to Connext for display on the screen. Could also be one of those proprietary ones PGNs. One can always buy after market rpm pickups to feed into a aftermarket MFD. As for the newer boats without the tachs I have not seen a wiring diagram or tested it but it is entirely possible that the new boats are sending the normal rpm PGNs now.

My guess on the techs is that on first get context they stuck with stuff already in the parts bin (aka parts bin engineering). Before Connext the techs displayed speed, and other stuff so they had to have their own can bus. Nothing wrong with this but the move away from the tachs likely saved some money that was shifted to the more expensive
Connext 2.0 while eliminating some of the multiple networking craziness in the X series.

Bottom line is that integration with aftermarket was not built into the design then or really now. Now with context 2.0 an aftermarket mfd can control the stereo but the only need for one is perhaps as a fishfinder.

Perhaps all of that can lead someone to figuring out more. If so please do tag me.

 

[AJack]

Yes, what he said.

The context boats with the techs rely on the tachs for the gps and radio canbus to connext. You can can even test the techs through the context screen. When I was reading all the PGNs on the nema network in my boat the standard one for rpms was not there but there were a bunch of proprietary ones. My best guess is that the tachs are still getting the signal through the radio can bus (yes I know that sounds odd) or engine can bus and feeding the data back to Connext for display on the screen. Could also be one of those proprietary ones PGNs. One can always buy after market rpm pickups to feed into a aftermarket MFD. As for the newer boats without the tachs I have not seen a wiring diagram or tested it but it is entirely possible that the new boats are sending the normal rpm PGNs now.

My guess on the techs is that on first get context they stuck with stuff already in the parts bin (aka parts bin engineering). Before Connext the techs displayed speed, and other stuff so they had to have their own can bus. Nothing wrong with this but the move away from the tachs likely saved some money that was shifted to the more expensive
Connext 2.0 while eliminating some of the multiple networking craziness in the X series.

Bottom line is that integration with aftermarket was not built into the design then or really now. Now with context 2.0 an aftermarket mfd can control the stereo but the only need for one is perhaps as a fishfinder.

Perhaps all of that can lead someone to figuring out more. If so please do tag me.

 

[FloJet]

 

[Josserman]

Connext boats do have a N2K network. The only standard pgns are for depth and water temp from the transducer. Everything else is on proprietary pgns so the only way to read them into a standard mfd would be to buy something that translates that info into standard pgns (no such thing for the connext boats yet) or build and code something custom. I did the custom thing and decoded the connext joystick and posted a thread a couple of months ago. https://jetboaters.net/threads/connext-joystick-nmea-info.11513/

This was not easy as I had to add some raw electronic components to a Arduino Mega and code it to even pick up the proprietary pgns and their hex values to write out to my laptop in a log and realtime. I don't think it is worth the time and effort to take it further but if someone else with CANBUS or microcontroller coding knowledge wants to give it a go then hit me up in a PM.

Ultimately much of the engine info is still being sent over the custom Yamaha Canbus for the 1.8l engines. The connext screen is the hub for the radio can bus, NMEA 0183 (gps speed pick up) NMEA 2000, and the custom Yamaha CanBus. I don't think the Yamaha bus for the 1.8l is the same as their outboards which would make this easier as the outboards are supported for MFDs. Would have been great of the connext developers to at least output to standard pgns where data was availabe to do so like rpms, battery voltage, charging voltage, etc.

Did you ever look into pulling the individual sensor data? From what I read from your and others posts, it sounds their are a few analog sensors from other manufactures folks were able to get charts on. I probably need to give up on this as you have, but I’m at a point where I’m even considering replacing the factory ECU with a universal ECU like a Haltech 550, and then getting a converter to send the data from there into am NMEA 2000. I have a ‘14, and do feel there were some folks onto something with pulling the data from the master/slave dials, but again if it’s a propriety code then it’s moot I guess. I’m curious to see if the YDS 2.0 cable sees running engine data or just error codes, if it does see running data then there’s got to be an easier way to extract it off a computer from there.

 

[Scottie]

Is there not an analog tach signal? Couldn't you just convert it to nmea2k with something like this?

RS11 - CANbus Engine Data Converter, NoLand Engineering

Here's my custom dash. I ditched the factory dash cap and panel entirely. Made the cap from 1/2" marine ply and hardboard for the curves, sealed it, and then had it upholstered. I built the cap for maximum dimensions of the panel, which let me just fit a Go7 with flush mount, and the additional rocker switches I needed. I'm thrilled with how it turned out, but I don't know if I'd do it again. I had never done anything like this before, and I bet I have 80-100 hours in this project.