not thrilled with dealer fix to the anchor locker issue

[HangOutdoors]

Check inside see if it is structural. If not, maybe you could seal it up with some 4200 Fast Cure on the inside and out for now to completely cover it.. I would dry it out with a heat gun or hair dryer first. When you do take it in, it may take quite some time for it to be repaired.

Hopefully other members here in know could chime in.

Without sealing it I wouldn't put it in the water, since the glass can start to absorb some water.

 

[YamSport]

Almost looks like the hull cracked from stress. Are there bolts mounting the plate there? Maybe they were over torqued at the factory? Sorry you are dealing with this

Yes there are bolts mounting the plate very close.

Check inside see if it is structural. If not, maybe you could seal it up with some 4200 Fast Cure on the inside and out for now to completely cover it.. I would dry it out with a heat gun or hair dryer first. When you do take it in, it may take quite some time for it to be repaired.

Hopefully other members here in know could chime in.

Without sealing it I wouldn't put it in the water, since the glass can start to absorb some water.

Thanks a million for your suggestions and support!! Hopefully this does not go into the hull and is just a gel coat crack and my new plug will keep the water out of my boat..

 

[YamSport]

This is a photo of my new boat the day of delivery before it was ever taken off its trailer.. Zoom in to the bottom right above the plate and you can see my boat was delivered to me with this crack in it..

 

[tdonoughue]

I join in the 'wow'.

My main concerns would be a) whether it is structural (e.g. will the ride plate stresses pull the ride plate clean off the boat due to this crack?) and b) whether you should rely on one bilge pump to bail you out of a leaking boat (every pun intended). I think a is unlikely much of an issue, but it is a risk. I think b is much more of a concern. Basically, you know the boat is taking on water and you are relying on the 'emergency' system of the bilge to address it. I have done that while wake surfing, but I have 2 bilge pumps (so I relied on one to be a backup to the other).

I don't think that wicking of water into the fiberglass should be a major concern. The inside of that glass is unfinished (no gelcoat on it) and water sits there all the time. Actually pools there. If anything is going to wick, it will be from the inside from one of those pool of water sitting in your bilge. Yes, the crack will wick some more, but not nearly as much as every time you have water in the bilge. IMHO.

All that said: would I put it in? Probably not. Would I say you were being terribly unsafe or stupid to do so? No, I would not. Judgment call. If you do go out, keep an eye on the water level in the bilge and bring a manual bilge pump or bucket that fits into the engine compartment, just in case.

 

[David Martin]

Needs to be repaired for sure cant believe any one would give you boat with that s crack that bad............shaking head now, lets not mention the sloppy caulking work......sheesh!!!!!

 

[RobbieO]

I wouldn’t touch it until the dealer decides if they want to warranty the repair or not. Once you touch it, they’ll say it’s out of their hands now. Time to get ahold of corporate and start making some noise. So much for the prep and inspection fee.

 

[Otnelico]

This is a photo of my new boat the day of delivery before it was ever taken off its trailer.. Zoom in to the bottom right above the plate and you can see my boat was delivered to me with this crack in it..

Clear as day once you know where to look. And I understand you thinking it was just some caulking spill over. looks like they gave it to you dirty with sealant squeezed out and not cleaned up. I hope you get this resolved to you satisfaction.

On a lighter note, you received the Gray hulled FSH210 with the warm interior? What does it look like up close and personal? That is the color scheme I prefer.

 

[haknslash]

I just don't understand why Yamaha didn't just put the drain hole in the bottom of the locker (where his puddle of water is/was) allowing it follow the inside of the keel and off to the bilge and transom drain.

That’s how they sort of did on my 192. It drained into the ski locker which of course drains into the bilge. Why they can’t or won’t do that for all of their boats is beyond me. I don’t understand the need for an anchor locker drain thru-hull on these boats. I doesn’t look good and it doesn’t function worth a shit because they don’t do it correctly at the factory. It’s like amateur hour over there and despite YEARS of data on the shortcomings of their design in here (and they clearly visit this site) it just shows how hard headed and stubborn they are to accept their shit ass design and craftsmanship and accept it needs to be completely redone and improved upon.

 

[YamSport]

I wouldn’t touch it until the dealer decides if they want to warranty the repair or not. Once you touch it, they’ll say it’s out of their hands now. Time to get ahold of corporate and start making some noise. So much for the prep and inspection fee.

Trailering a boat could not possible cause this type of injury

Clear as day once you know where to look. And I understand you thinking it was just some caulking spill over. looks like they gave it to you dirty with sealant squeezed out and not cleaned up. I hope you get this resolved to you satisfaction.

On a lighter note, you received the Gray hulled FSH210 with the warm interior? What does it look like up close and personal? That is the color scheme I prefer.

My boat is the 255 E in teal.. My first real boat after seeing 100’s at boat shows over the past 10 years.. Irony here.. after waiting so long I can’t even use it..

Aside from the boat having a crack through the hull letting water in, my first impression was wow!! I have never been in or on a Yamaha before that I cared to remember..Just Looking at the boats interior lowers my blood pressure..then you start seeing things that make you go “WTF” but all simple fixes with help from those on this forum.

 

[YamSport]

I join in the 'wow'.

My main concerns would be a) whether it is structural (e.g. will the ride plate stresses pull the ride plate clean off the boat due to this crack?) and b) whether you should rely on one bilge pump to bail you out of a leaking boat (every pun intended). I think a is unlikely much of an issue, but it is a risk. I think b is much more of a concern. Basically, you know the boat is taking on water and you are relying on the 'emergency' system of the bilge to address it. I have done that while wake surfing, but I have 2 bilge pumps (so I relied on one to be a backup to the other).

I don't think that wicking of water into the fiberglass should be a major concern. The inside of that glass is unfinished (no gelcoat on it) and water sits there all the time. Actually pools there. If anything is going to wick, it will be from the inside from one of those pool of water sitting in your bilge. Yes, the crack will wick some more, but not nearly as much as every time you have water in the bilge. IMHO.

All that said: would I put it in? Probably not. Would I say you were being terribly unsafe or stupid to do so? No, I would not. Judgment call. If you do go out, keep an eye on the water level in the bilge and bring a manual bilge pump or bucket that fits into the engine compartment, just in case.

I was able to put a hose in the access panel between the clean out ports and run it above the cracked area and without a doubt water is leaking out. I'm not putting it back in the water.. Waiting on my trailer registration appointment before I can legally drive it to the dealer. You'd think they'd come pick it up in cases like this.