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not thrilled with dealer fix to the anchor locker issue

mrcleanr6

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yes you are absolutely correct on that. typically if you are a saltwater boater then when you get back to the dock you are always supposed to fresh water rinse the anchor and chain off. all the mud and dirt will just go directly into the bilge. on much larger boats than ours many times there is a high pressure freshwater pump and a spray nozzle that will spray the chain down as the windlass winches it in or there is atleast a hose up front so it can be manually washed before it enters the locker. with the drain in our boats then you can just hose everything off in the locker and it will drain right out.
 

HangOutdoors

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I have the same issue.. My boat is two weeks old. I have a misaligned anchor locker plastic drain fitting that doesn't reach all the way into the anchor locker and I believe is allowing water between the hulls and then down into my engine bilge. I bought the SS fitting and then started thinking about why I need this hole in my anchor locker if the water drains to the bilge anyhow. I temporarily filled it with silicone to leak test the bilge activity.

The only thing I can think of is that a lot of sand/mud/dirt will be in that locker from the anchor and it might not be good for the life of the bilge pump.
The anchor locker isn't leaking per say, it is the between the hull and the anchor locker. Also if you get a good rain or wash the boat, etc, you need that to drain. Or the day you take a wave over the bow and fills that locker up. Gonna suck hand bailing it. Just put in the SS one that you have, spend 15 minuets or less on it, seal it good and forget about it. IMHO It also looks a hell of a lot better.
 

drewkaree

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If yours doesn't reach all the way, you will have water flowing over /through the edges of the fiberglass. I'm in fresh water, and I'm not thrilled about the outcome of that, I'd be less happy with saltwater.

The design of the anchor locker will ALWAYS allow water in, a cork or caulk will lessen the amount of water, which can be handled with a sponge. Rain will always be an issue, so caulk or a cork will only stop/lessen the amount while underway, but this is likely 95% of the problem for your anchor locker. The drain fitting will make it easier to address the problem, as well as fixing any issues with the fiberglass in the area.

Only you can decide the importance of this fix/mod, but I would now consider it a no-brainer with my own personal experience. I would do it even if I didn't have an issue, simply for looks and peace of mind
 

Mesa50

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I have the same issue.. My boat is two weeks old. I have a misaligned anchor locker plastic drain fitting that doesn't reach all the way into the anchor locker and I believe is allowing water between the hulls and then down into my engine bilge. I bought the SS fitting and then started thinking about why I need this hole in my anchor locker if the water drains to the bilge anyhow. I temporarily filled it with silicone to leak test the bilge activity.

The only thing I can think of is that a lot of sand/mud/dirt will be in that locker from the anchor and it might not be good for the life of the bilge pump.
I didn’t have the gap between the inner and outer hull on my 2021. I don’t think any of the newer boats do. It was a waste of time to remove my anchor drain, and I wish I would have just sealed the unfinished fiberglass like you have done. All my water in the bilge issues were from water coming up through the clean out ports, and seeping around the edges of the clean out tray, and under the inspection lid. I sealed the tray, and reduced most of the water. However, when I surf on the port side, the water can’t get to the only drain which is on the starboard side, and it fills the area, and runs between the the inspection lid, and tray. Jeboatpilot now has risers to keep water from pouring between the tray, and the floppy inspection lid that doesn’t seal. I don’t know if they will really fit current production boats, because they have a gutter around the inspection cover, that still doesn’t stop the water.
 

YamSport

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I didn’t have the gap between the inner and outer hull on my 2021. I don’t think any of the newer boats do. It was a waste of time to remove my anchor drain, and I wish I would have just sealed the unfinished fiberglass like you have done. All my water in the bilge issues were from water coming up through the clean out ports, and seeping around the edges of the clean out tray, and under the inspection lid. I sealed the tray, and reduced most of the water. However, when I surf on the port side, the water can’t get to the only drain which is on the starboard side, and it fills the area, and runs between the the inspection lid, and tray. Jeboatpilot now has risers to keep water from pouring between the tray, and the floppy inspection lid that doesn’t seal. I don’t know if they will really fit current production boats, because they have a gutter around the inspection cover, that still doesn’t stop the water.
My plugged anchor locker was filling with rainwater so I drilled out my patch and installed the SS fitting. If I want to stop the water I'll just cork it somehow.
I finally had time to sit with the new boat in the water to look for my water leak. I sat and watched for about an hour after running the bilge and I could see the water level slowly creeping up over the bilge hose fitting. I spend the rest of the day with the boat next to me replacing 6" bolts holding the boat lift bunks and the bilge turned on every two hours for about 15 seconds..I also plugged the engine compartment and the same rate of fill up occurred. Not a big deal, but I would really like to find out why this is happening without leaving it at my dealer for a month.. I pulled the boat and am now looking at every opening bewildered where to start. My plug seemed to be snugly in place and the gasket was well "new".
 

bigwaves

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My plugged anchor locker was filling with rainwater so I drilled out my patch and installed the SS fitting. If I want to stop the water I'll just cork it somehow.
I finally had time to sit with the new boat in the water to look for my water leak. I sat and watched for about an hour after running the bilge and I could see the water level slowly creeping up over the bilge hose fitting. I spend the rest of the day with the boat next to me replacing 6" bolts holding the boat lift bunks and the bilge turned on every two hours for about 15 seconds..I also plugged the engine compartment and the same rate of fill up occurred. Not a big deal, but I would really like to find out why this is happening without leaving it at my dealer for a month.. I pulled the boat and am now looking at every opening bewildered where to start. My plug seemed to be snugly in place and the gasket was well "new".
YamSport, I haven’t read this entire thread. you have a brand new boat with water entering the hull somewhere. It’s really a shame that you have to sit in the boat for an hour out on the water watching water seep into the boat. Maybe this has already been answered but why the heck isn’t your dealer spending their time investigating this water intrusion problem? There are way to many problems it seems with these brand spanking new Yamaha boats. They’re Yamaha boats for God’s sake not something slapped together in some less than third world country shipped to you in a box for you to figure out what all the problems are. We all pay very good, hard earned money for these boats. These boats are not cheap and the prices are taking a huge jump in 2022. Nobody gets discounts, only markups. Are new owners going to just be thankful they have a boat and let Yamaha slide on all these quality issues?! It’s time for a class action lawsuit. To hell with Yamaha blaming everything on COVID. Build a high quality boat without all of these problems or shut the F down and stop building boats.
 

HangOutdoors

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@YamSport I would guess, if it is coming in while it is just sitting, it is either the keel plug, something around the bearing, perhaps seal where steering cables are coming in. Something back there is not sealed and it sounds like it should be coming in somewhere on the back transom below the water line. Have you filled your bilge with a lot of water and had the boat on a trailer to see if water is coming out? Perhaps just the pressure of it being in the water is enough for water to seep in where the sealant is good.

Just a thought...... Take some plumbers putty or sealant or something similar that will adhere but can be removed and go around everything that is on the transom that is through bolted or goes through into the hull around the sealant on the outside and see if it stops the leak as a way to pin point it. On mine when I was tracing water leaks I used different food coloring, non toxic which help me trace it around the plug hatch, but that was a different type of thing than you are experiencing.
 

YamSport

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"why the heck isn’t your dealer spending their time investigating this water intrusion problem?"

I had the boat delivered from out of state due to the lack of boats in my area. I already complained to the dealer I purchased it from and he basically said it's a warranty issue and to bring it to the local dealer. My local dealer made it clear that they take care of the customers whom they sell boats too first. Small issued are taking weeks to return boats and I believe I won't see my boat for a long time if I drop it now. Can we take our Yamaha boats to any Yamaha boat dealer in the country? I may have to drive it to the next closest dealer to avoid persecution.. They seem a little upset with the lack of allocation at my local dealer and the attitude that came along with it was very unprofessional.
 

YamSport

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@YamSport I would guess, if it is coming in while it is just sitting, it is either the keel plug, something around the bearing, perhaps seal where steering cables are coming in. Something back there is not sealed and it sounds like it should be coming in somewhere on the back transom below the water line. Have you filled your bilge with a lot of water and had the boat on a trailer to see if water is coming out? Perhaps just the pressure of it being in the water is enough for water to seep in where the sealant is good.

Just a thought...... Take some plumbers putty or sealant or something similar that will adhere but can be removed and go around everything that is on the transom that is through bolted or goes through into the hull around the sealant on the outside and see if it stops the leak as a way to pin point it. On mine when I was tracing water leaks I used different food coloring, non toxic which help me trace it around the plug hatch, but that was a different type of thing than you are experiencing.
I appreciate the post. I will try this..
 

HangOutdoors

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You can take your boat to any dealer you wish, but find out if they will work on it and what their que is. I do believe you are correct, it is most likely going to be gone for some time if they are busy. They may not even find the leak.
 

HangOutdoors

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@YamSport Probably should elaborate on the technique. You get some dry powder food coloring or the liquid, although the liquid will run down, get several different high visible one. Like red, blue, etc. Then start from the top down in under the clean out hatch. I put mine in a small bottle so I could dust some areas exactly. Put some around the scupper and let it sit in the water and see if that color is leaking down into the bilge. Next go a bit lower around the clean out tubes where there is a large tube clamp. Then around where the steering cables come through the hull then around that area, etc. After every check rinse out the bilge and area you put the stuff so there is no residual and continue on. I actually switched colors between each try so if there was a bit of residual of the previous color I would know that.

Was a way I did it, others may have better suggestions.
 

drewkaree

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I didn’t have the gap between the inner and outer hull on my 2021. I don’t think any of the newer boats do. It was a waste of time to remove my anchor drain
Newer boats most definitely do, and have been reported and verified on the site here. If you simply replaced the fitting without verification of the issue, I can see why you think it was a waste of time. Those who have had this issue would question why you didn't verify that it was the actual problem, since it has solved the issues of many here.

Reading your description of your fix and the results, it's my belief that you still have some other small issue, but it's currently "solved" to your satisfaction, and in the end, that's all that really matters.

The anchor locker drain is most definitely NOT a waste of time to check, and address it if it is problematic - that definition is different for each owner.

It’s really a shame that you have to sit in the boat for an hour out on the water watching water seep into the boat. Maybe this has already been answered but why the heck isn’t your dealer spending their time investigating this water intrusion problem?
As is the case with many who tackle these issues, the choice is up to each owner whether they would rather address it themselves, or leave it in their dealer's hands for some unspecified amount of time.

They’re Yamaha boats for God’s sake not something slapped together in some less than third world country shipped to you in a box for you to figure out what all the problems are.
They're machines, and hand-assembled items. I'm a victim of the workmanship myself. I also have a warranty, and a dealership to remedy the problems, if I choose to avail myself of their services. Nobody on this forum bought a jigsaw puzzle from their dealer, but they ARE here looking for help to address the problems they are experiencing - advice for selling, or solutions to the problem at hand will be a better aid for threads like this.

It’s time for a class action lawsuit. To hell with Yamaha blaming everything on COVID. Build a high quality boat without all of these problems or shut the F down and stop building boats.
I know this may make you feel better, but it's unrealistic, and would be an easy case to dismiss, since there are remedies in place to help a new owner.

You're better off by telling others to sell, given the frustration that you have, or....put your money on the line, and I'm sure if there's enough folks who agree with you, there'll be a line out the door to join you in your fight.

Seems many are happy with dealing with these things so that they can enjoy the time they have - you are experiencing the 10% rule, and we're a pretty helpful group for those who trust themselves to tackle these things and get to know their boat better than the other 90%
 

YamSport

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My New Boats Issues. It sure feels like an act of negligence by whomever let it ship.. I wake up angry every day..

1. Anchor Locker ... small but open hole/crack in inside locker hull at the bottom of where the tow hook is located.
.... crooked drain fitting visible from the outside and the inside. I have fixed this already.

2. Fish Storage Locker ...... Does not drain.. Water stays no matter how much over the drain hole. When I put hose pressure to the drain it does release that water.

3. Head storage (changing area) does not line up when closed.. It's an inch or more to the port side. It also doesn't drain very well.

4. Center Console... the starboard side where you put the key and emergency..from there down to the floor--. none of the screws are holding anything.. they all spin..When I received the boat I notice a crooked screw right away.. I guess the dealer can't see

5. A floor snap is missing leaving a hole in the floor. Flooring not squared on same starboard side causing it to stretch to the snaps which is most likely why it pulled a snap out of the floor..

6. A small hole in the roof of the center console large enough for water to enter.

7. My new boat had someone named Christine already paired to the audio system.

8. Boat did not come with table stand.

9. Last, but certainly not least my bilge runs every 2-3 hours when sitting in the water engine off. I will be leak testing on my next day off.
 
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deubank1776

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My New Boats Issues. It sure feels like an act of negligence by whomever let it ship.. I wake up angry every day..

1. Anchor Locker ... small but open hole/crack in inside locker hull at the bottom of where the tow hook is located.
.... crooked drain fitting visible from the outside and the inside. I have fixed this already.

2. Fish Storage Locker ...... Does not drain.. Water stays no matter how much over the drain hole. When I put hose pressure to the drain it does release that water.

3. Head storage (changing area) does not line up when closed.. It's an inch or more to the port side. It also doesn't drain very well.

4. Center Console... the starboard side where you put the key and emergency..from there down to the floor--. none of the screws are holding anything.. they all spin..

5. A floor snap is missing leaving a hole in the floor.

6. A small hole in the roof of the center console large enough for water to enter.

7. My new boat had someone named Christine already paired to the audio system.

8. Boat did not come with table stand.

9. Last, but certainly not least my bilge runs ever 2-3 hours when sitting in the water off. I will be leak testing on my next day off.
Wow. This is a 2021?
 

YamSport

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leak testing begins.. Before I put a little water in the engine compartment I noticed that one doesn’t look like the other.. Can anyone tell me if this could be the cause of my leak?
 

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HangOutdoors

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Is that the ride plate?
 

HangOutdoors

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It is hard to make out, is there a screw in there just covered over with sealant ?
 
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