Removing table pedestal hole

[atompa]

Anyone out there have experience with removing the table pedestal hole from the cockpit? Manual diagram shows nut and washer on the back, reaching in through the fuel tank hatch is a bit tight and doubt I can make it work. I'd like to use the existing hole to repair a soft spot nearby, eliminating the need to drill additional holes in my deck.

Thanks.

 

[OperationROL]

I believe you have a model without full access to the fuel hatch. No idea how you would get that done. In the later models you can remove the entire fuel hatch which includes the table pedestal mount. Good luck!

 

[atompa]

@OperationROL Question for you then, why would I need to have the ability to remove it? I could fit an end-wrench in there but would most likely lose the nut and have an impossible time re-installing. What if I removed it, filled in the bolt holes, re-drilled them undersized, and reinstalled the pedestal using thinkened epoxy in the bot holes? Essentially epoxying the table in place.

I mean, when would I need to remove it where I wouldn't be cutting out the whole cockpit anyways? I know the water damage most likely occurred by water leaking in through there, so if I don't seal the cause then it's likely to remain a problem. Right?

 

[Bruce]

The later model SX230 has a large removable fuel tank cover that OperationROL was referring to. The mount is in that removable cover. So an owner of a 2007+ SX230 would remove the cover to access the nuts on the bottom side. This is a nice way to get there but often the bolts are corroded into place making it a difficult process.

If I needed to make such a repair I believe that I would carefully cut away the floor area that needed to be repaired, make the repair and then install SeaDek flooring to cover up the area. This would reduce the amount of finishing required in the repaired area.

If you want to work from the table mount area then you need to remove the bolts or cut the mount. Have you tried to remove the bolts? If you get lucky they might spin out. Alternately you could drill off the top of the bolts. Or if you cut or drill out the center of the mount you may be able to get a wrench on the nuts. Great Lakes Skipper has some similar mounts for $30 or less.

 

[itsdgm]

Anyone out there have experience with removing the table pedestal hole from the cockpit? Manual diagram shows nut and washer on the back, reaching in through the fuel tank hatch is a bit tight and doubt I can make it work. I'd like to use the existing hole to repair a soft spot nearby, eliminating the need to drill additional holes in my deck.

Thanks.

There's a few pics on this link that shows exactly what you're up against. Hope they help.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/need-a-new-fuel-tank.3635/page-17

 

[atompa]

Thanks everyone, I started with the overhaul... Below shows the poor condition of the wood core, I ended up drilling the bolts out. For all of you out there, the pedestal wasn't sealed at all; allowing water to freely penetrate the core... I'll keep you posted.
.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Wow! No big surprise really, but this is a good reminder to those who drill thru the hull for lights and transducers. You need to seal the edges of your holes, even if it's fiberglass.

 

[atompa]

Exactly. Safe practice = drill an oversized hole, fill with epoxy and drill the correct size hole once hardened... Nothing's penetrating that.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Are you going to use the stuff made to fix dry rotted wood?

 

[atompa]

GIT ROT? Actually, no. I live close to where West Systems is made, so I'll be supporting that local business. Plus, they're great guys and would give you the shirt of their backs. I'll use the standard resin, extra slow hardener, syringe and maybe some tubing so I can penetrate the far reaches of the rot. First timer, so I could be completely wrong with this approach.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

First timer? Check out Jamestown distributors for advice, videos and product.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=453

 

[Speedling]

The regular slow hardener is probably fine just don't take 4 hours to do the job and you can do small bits at a time.

 

[atompa]

Update. I ended up taping off all edges and holes, and drilled a new hole to access the dry rot. With the tall nose down and Ssing a syringe with some IV tubing, I patiently filled the floor with ~16 ounces of epoxy. I let cure 24hours and then topped both that hole and the originals.

I replaced the previous bolts with ones only a 1/2" in length, and secured the pedestal will marine sealant.

 

[CrankyGypsy]

so what did you thread the shorter bolts into? mine is loose, so I will probably drill my screws out, but am trying to come up with the best idea for re securing it.

 

[atompa]

@CrankyGypsy Honestly I was leaning towards securing it with epoxy, feeling that my repair job would be the last reason I'd ever need to remove it... However, after weighing the options I decided to simply use marine sealant (silicon) to secure the base AND shortened screws. Shortest I could find were 1/2" (I think) so I did have to drill into my newly filled holes, but I made sure to only drill into the epoxy so I didn't re-expose any core...

I'll let you know how the silicon holds up, but we went our today without any issues... it's as solid as when it was bolted.

 

[Scottintexas]

you should also check you t-handle latches on your cleanout cover, one of mine must have had a bad seal and it rotted the cover hatch pretty good,

 

[CrankyGypsy]

@atompa ok, thanks. I'm leaning towards getting a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate and cutting out a donut (matching the mount plate). then drill and tap it for each screw, slide it in from the fuel pump hatch, and temp securing it to the underside of the floor with silicone so I can get the mount screws started.

 

[OperationROL]

There's a few pics on this link that shows exactly what you're up against. Hope they help.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/need-a-new-fuel-tank.3635/page-17

Good find. That's Scott and I installing MutherTucker's SeaDek that covered the "incision" well. Although, I will have to say the glass guy did a wonderful job on the repair.

 

[OperationROL]

@atompa - Glad you were able to access the area and make your repairs. You mentioned you had to make another small hole. Did you have to ruin any HydroTurf (I think that's what your flooring is)? If so, did you just order a new piece?

 

[atompa]

@OperationROL - Thanks, it was a nerve racking repair with Spring upon us. Reuining the HydroTurf (which I wish was Seadek after seeing your install) was why I didn't drill directly into the soft spot. The main void/dryrot started between two of the original pedestal bolt holes, I simply drilled the hole in the area what would be covered once I reinstalled the mount. I started the repair documenting the steps with picture, but stopped when I changed my initial approach. I doctored up a picture to show where I drilled the hole in case my explanation is unclear. The is probably obvious, but I only drilled through the top layer.