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Shorelander trailer lights

Dthorpe

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
75
Reaction score
17
Points
72
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2019
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
21
I had read that it is recommended that when backing your trailer into the water you should disconnect the electric plug from your truck. I've been doing this, but is it really necessary?
 
I had read that it is recommended that when backing your trailer into the water you should disconnect the electric plug from your truck. I've been doing this, but is it really necessary?
I never unhook mine. Probably over 80 dunks and no problems.

When loading after dark the brake lights help seeing trailer.
 
Glad to hear no disasters! I do think water gets in there, I've replaced two bulbs on the left side and it's only a year old.
 
I did replace the little side lights with LEDs already.
 
Definitely need the plug in so the brakes don’t lock. I replaced all the incandescent with led’s and sealed them with clear silicone.
 
I leave mine plugged in. Lights seem to do just fine under water. Plus, I need the brake to release with the 5th pin.
Not sure I get this - I've never had to back UP a boat ramp, only back down the ramp into the water and have no issues with the surge brakes. On flatter pavement just ahead of the ramp backing up the brakes may hold a little bit at first but a little nudge and she starts rolling down the ramp. I could probably put it in neutral and roll back.

And I've always disconnected the lights to protect my truck's electrical system in the event of a short in the trailer lights. I haven't had any shorting issues out of the water, but you never know when it might happen in the water.
 
I do like the fact the lights are glowing underwater to help aim the boat for loading in dim light.
 
So today I backed boat into the water with the trailer lights on. No problem. When I got home, I disassembled the lights to reverse the polarity of the little led side lights. I was pleasantly surprised to find that the interior of both light housings was bone dry. I hardly thought that possible given the way the unit seals itself with the three wires coming out the little U-notches.
 
My taillights died after the third dunk. Took them apart and one side was completely corroded. I bought replacement LEDs at Auto Zone for 60 bucks which were direct replacements.
 
Previous owner had one of the trailer lights mounted up side down.... bulbs where completely corroded.


Bought this on amazon,
Bought some shrink tube and a heat gun and a soldering kit from Harbor Freight.
“ I was looking for a reason to go to harbor freight” lol.
Was very simple, wires where the same colors, and worked out perfect.
 
Like others have said, there is no need to unhook with led lights. If you still have bulbs, you should consider unhooking just to lower the odds of blowing a bulb.
 
I've gone full led now. But this one year old trailer will eventually have problems. the bulb sockets are already starting to corrode.
 
For long light life without maintenance you need sealed LED lights. That would be a completely sealed LED light not just a LED light bulb in a regular light. And any nick, scratch, or connection on the whole system that salt water enters will corrode and fail.
 
Be sure to buy Shorelandr replacement LED lights. Otherwise you may not get matching wire connectors. Unfortunately, the ones I bought came with wire nuts. Thus, I had to replace the connectors too.
 
Wouldn’t it seem that all boat trailers should have sealed lights?
 
I had to replace both tail lights on mine after the second drop in. Pulling off the old lights the housing inside was rusted, and wires were in bad shape. this was on a brand new trailer from the dealer too. New lights work just fine in water.
 
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