Shorelandr Bow Stop Post

[txav8r]

Have any of you ever moved or taken the slop out of your Shorelandr bow stop post? I had a chance to look it over pretty well and not by choice. I was installing a Stolz Bow Roller, and the stock Poly roller was literally crushed by the boat and scared up from the bow stop bolt. It appeared the roller or post was twisted and not straight on the centerline of the trailer. Now this can be a can of worms, because you just don't know if a bunk was installed off center, the post is off center, or the roller is off center, along with the bow roller frame maybe being off center. Anyway, as I was looking at it and trying to install the roller, I could not get the stolz center roller into the frame where the holes in it would align with with the two frame mount holes. Because the boat was loaded as it should be, against the roller, with the bow eye bolt snug against the stock roller, and had rubbed an indentation into the roller. So there was not enough room to get the new roller all the way back.

I decided I would just loosen the bow stop post and slide it forward, install the roller, and slide it back. Well, of course it wouldn't go all the way back. I am 1/2" from its original position. My intention was to move it into the original position yesterday at the ramp when we took the boat out the first time. But with a sailboat taking 30 minutes on the ramp, 2 pontoons, 3 fishing boats, and 2 other runabouts in front of me...and crosswinds and waves...and I had NO FENDERS! So I couldn't take time at the ramp to move it while it was slightly back on the trailer or tied to the dock.

Anyway, I have two questions for anyone that has messed with the post. Have you noticed that the post can be canted forward from pressure loading? There is room between the bolts that hold the post secure on the center rail and pinch the post mounting base along the rail. That room between the bolts and bottom of the rail allow the post to rock backwards and forwards. The slop has to go. I am looking for ways to do that. I think a sleeve or tube of appropriate thickness on each bolt between the base sides could take up some of that room, or a shim on top of the center rail or under it between it and the bolts. Ideas?

I also wonder if there is any harm in leaving the post where I moved it to. The boat is 1/2" forward and of course puts more weight on the tongue. Thoughts? I can move the post back to original position, I just couldn't do it yesterday. That winch is much more of a winch than the MFI had! But I notice the in several places, it says do not winch the boat up the bunks with it. I know why now, not because of the winch...because it will pivot the bow stop post backward on the center rail! Thoughts on leaving the post where it is?

 

[BoaterGuy]

I took mine off to replace the trailer jack that is mounted to it. I dont think you will have an issue. However, you will notice that the bow stop does move while trailering which has a forward influence as you are always tightening the tie down straps.

Maybe next time I have the boat off the trailer, I'll move the bow stop back an inch or two. I wouldn't weld it in place, because you wont be able to replace the trailer jack if it breaks. (Mine did after two months).

Anyway, I have two questions for anyone that has messed with the post. Have you noticed that the post can be canted forward from pressure loading? There is room between the bolts that hold the post secure on the center rail and pinch the post mounting base along the rail. That room between the bolts and bottom of the rail allow the post to rock backwards and forwards. The slop has to go. I am looking for ways to do that. I think a sleeve or tube of appropriate thickness on each bolt between the base sides could take up some of that room, or a shim on top of the center rail or under it between it and the bolts. Ideas?

I power load and it has never tilted or moved on me.

 

[txav8r]

I took mine off to replace the trailer jack that is mounted to it. I dont think you will have an issue. However, you will notice that the bow stop does move while trailering which has a forward influence as you are always tightening the tie down straps.

Maybe next time I have the boat off the trailer, I'll move the bow stop back an inch or two. I wouldn't weld it in place, because you wont be able to replace the trailer jack if it breaks. (Mine did after two months).
I power load and it has never tilted or moved on me.

Are you sure? I think this is where the movement is coming from. That bow stop post isn't mounted over a secondary post the way the MFI was. It is mounted to the center rail as a sliding unit. The only movement I see that it could have is pivot on that rail. But your right...I tightened down the transom straps 3 times coming home from the dealer. I am going to hate having to use the 5mph BATSTOP to seat the boat against the bowstop post and roller each time. Have you witnessed the post move when cinching the winch? Last night, after the maiden voyage, I noticed that the transom straps remained snug. But I left the power up while I tightened the winch, and the eyebolt was against the roller completely. That post may have been tilted forward or the back edge of the mounting base lifted with the bolt below up against the bottom of the center rail from day one, don't know.

 

[BoaterGuy]

I've never seen the bow stop bolt up against the main center rail, but I have had the boat move during transit. Logic tells me that if it did cant forward and it did have the mount bolt up against the bottom, it would stay there as there is no force to pull it back down, unless you were accelerating really hard during a tow. (My truck doesnt have the power to do that)

I always make sure my bow eyelet is up against the roller. I'm very particular about the boat sitting on the trailer correctly before leaving.

 

[txav8r]

I just read the trailer manual. They talk about loosening the post mount and centering and positioning the roller directly over and against the bow eye bolt. So the fact the new roller took up more room apparently, it should be loaded just fine now. It was off center before, so...I fixed it! Yes, me too on loading. I want it snug and without movement. But if the post is flexing, you have movement on the bunks no matter how tight all three straps are. That is why many either bolted or welded (even with additional bracing) the posts on the MFI. This trailer is MUCH more substantial and so is that post and winch. I see it is only rated 300 pounds heavier, but the gearing is heavier and putting pressure on it doesn't pull the teeth out of alignment. I like this trailer much better!

 

[0627Devildog]

On the subject of trailers, I am about to order Veve Guides. . . . Anyone have their Shorelander Trailer handy to advise what size bolts I should be ordering?

 

[txav8r]

On the subject of trailers, I am about to order Veve Guides. . . . Anyone have their Shorelander Trailer handy to advise what size bolts I should be ordering?

I do...but do they mount the same as the smiths? If so, they come with bolts, right? The frame is 2" thick x 5.25" high. I did have to order a kit to get longer u-bolts.

 

[0627Devildog]

They come with the bolts, but you have to specify which size bolts depending on the trailer frame size. My trailer is at the Marina so this info is helpful, so I can order them today.

Thanks!

 

[txav8r]

I decided I needed a 7" bolt, but I don't know the thickness of the mounts on the veve's. That will make a difference. I ended up just ordering the kit because I needed a hump in the bottom of the U in one of the two bolts, so that it sits flush when they cross.

 

[0627Devildog]

Thanks Mel, All I needed were the frame measurements. . . . .

I ordered these

here: http://www.veveinc.com/shop/product.php?mode=add&productid=274&cat=71&page=&is_featured_product=

with the 7" bolts as recommended by the site for the 5.25" frame height.

Now I am off to get some CE SMITH Lights for them.

Can anyone recommend a good guide pad? Or provide some input as to whether or not they are necessary with the 65" poles? I am thinking at that height they should be hitting the rub rails, no?

 

[txav8r]

Yes, they will ride on the rub rails. But I ordered pads anyway. They look nice but won't last more than a few seasons if left exposed to the sun. They are cheap and can be replaced as needed. I ordered these. The actual post height is not 60" on the 60" set, but you still have about 15" uncovered on them using these pads that are 36" long.

 

[txav8r]

So I took some pics of the shorelandr bowstop post mount. Some may find this interesting. I guarantee this is where the movement comes from on this trailer. So in the following picture, you can see the post with only 2 bolts that squeeze the U shaped mount of the post to the tongue frame.


And the opposite side with the trailer jack mounted to the U Channel that serves as the mount.

You can see in both images how the post is leaning forward and has more space at the rear than the front, between the U and the tongue frame. Here is an image that shows the gap on one side and not the other.


It needs a sleeve to take up that room and stop the pivot. Here is a view from underneath that shows the room between the forward bolt and the frame bottom. Note that the aft bolt is pretty flush...hence the pivot.

What do you guys think? Ideas? @Gym

 

[Skysurfer2010]

I'll have to take a look the next time I'm with my boat. I've never noticed a gap in the front or rear.

 

[Rigger]

This is really odd. Mine doesn't move but we on the water again tomorrow so I'll double check.

 

[GTBRMC]

Seriously? That's the new trailer design Yamaha specified?
Almost all decent boat trailers have a double u-bolt mounted post...and they go with a ridiculous pinch bolt design?
After all the post-movement related hull scrubbing with the prior generation single set screw post mount design, Yamaha creates a new hull scrubbing failure mode.

Amazing. And disappointing.

 

[txav8r]

It is an easy fix @GTBRMC , just trying to find the best way to do it. You wouldn't believe the actual bow stop post...it is BEEFY! But the way it secures and adjusts is a good design, just poor execution. They should have designed either a shim plate or ferrules on those bolts to take up the slack. Either that or better placed holes to snug it with the bolts. There is zero torque spec for those bolts in the trailer manual too. I am going to call them next week and have a conversation about this, because I don't want to bend it where I can't get it off if I had to. If I did bend it, it would scratch the hell out of the tongue frame doing so. Anyway, it sure doesn't move like the MFI...but it is possible to put enough pressure on it to pivot it, and an uphill or jack rabbit start could cause it to pivot backward, although that isn't near as likely. If you use previous procedures to take the slop out and snug the boat against the bow roller, by doing a hard stop, you most certainly will pivot the post.

 

[motorboater]

I had a Shorelandr under my previous boat. Someone pulled out in front of us on the highway and I had to hit the brakes HARD and swerve to avoid them. This caused the bow stop to slide ahead about 4 inches even though it was tight! I tightened it some more and it seemed to be ok after that, but not sure. It was a roller trailer so scuffing wasnt an issue. I'd probably just have the post welded to the frame, paint it, and leave it at that. Why would it ever have to come off? Its only built that way to that it can be fitted to various different boats. After it's been fitted to your boat it can be permanently set. Welding it would be cheap and easy. Wouldnt even require any gusseting be added like the MFIs do.

Mine looked a little different than yours, but similar result.

 

[txav8r]

I had a Shorelandr under my previous boat. Someone pulled out in front of us on the highway and I had to hit the brakes HARD and swerve to avoid them. This caused the bow stop to slide ahead about 4 inches even though it was tight! I tightened it some more and it seemed to be ok after that, but not sure. It was a roller trailer so scuffing wasnt an issue. I'd probably just have the post welded to the frame, paint it, and leave it at that. Why would it ever have to come off? Its only built that way to that it can be fitted to various different boats. After it's been fitted to your boat it can be permanently set. Welding it would be cheap and easy. Wouldnt even require any gusseting be added like the MFIs do.
Mine looked a little different than yours, but similar result.

That won't work on this trailer. The trailer jack is mounted to that sliding mount. You have to remove the bow stop post to remove/replace the jack. And those jacks are not a lifetime product. I had to replace the jack on the previous trailer once. I originally saw welding as a poor option on the MFI but was glad I did it. This trailer has a nice paint job. You have to grind off the paint to weld it, and then paint it again. It is never the same without painting more of the trailer to blend it, and a spray can just doesn't do a good job. But it was "good enough", I just don't want to start off that way at this point.

 

[Magic]

Sleeve the bolt or shim the bracket seems like the easiest way to address this situation.....

The shim might work its way out so maybe a set screw or 2 through the bracket to secure the wedge in place...

Do you think the mounting bracket deforms under the impulse of the boat hitting the stop? This would complicate the entire situation....

 

[txav8r]

It is pretty heavy, I don't think so. This bow stop post is pretty heavy duty. I don't think it flexes at all...except the pivot noted above.