Shorlandr trailer brake caliper replacement

[granpachuck]

Great write up. Glad I found it, since I think I may be facing a similar issue. Crawling under the trailer this weekend, I noticed the rotors look scored. I am planning on changing pads, but wondering if someone could give me some more info on pulling the rotors in case I get them ground down or replaced.

I think I am going to check the calipers and grease them if they are decent. If anyone has a link to a diagram of the parts for this job, I would appreciate it. I think I have the same caliper set.

 

[Neutron]

Removing the rotors is easy once the caliper is off. All you need to do is remove the center cap, then the cotter pin and nut.

 

[scokill]

I have the same oil extractor and didn't think about using it for bleeding brakes! An alternate way that I used was to chock the wheels front and back, hook up to the trailer with vehicle an back up and pull forward a little a few times, then back up with pressure on the tongue, use emergency brake to keep from rolling forward, then go and release the bleeder.....and then repeat. It only took me a few times to get all the air out, and it would be very easy to just bleed the entire system this way. Be careful as the fluid is under pressure and I had brake fluid shoot all over me!

 

[tdonoughue]

Alternatively, you find you a friend (or a kid, as I usually do), to pump the tongue a few times, then hold it in. Release the bleeder; close it before the tongue is fully compressed (or, in other words, quickly). Repeat until you get fluid and no air. This method creates pressure, but not nearly as much, so you don't get wet...

 

[granpachuck]

Caliper Here is a link to one side, should be easy to search the other side

As far as the zerk, try tapping on the ball end of the zerk. I have had that work on occasion

Took off the caliper today with the intention of removing rotors, getting them ground down a bit, and finding out what the issue is with mine. One rotor was scored, so I thought the brake pads were worn, or some other issue.
Turns out, all the pads are fine, worn only a little, and only 1 rotor is scored, and not even enough to bother removing to clean up. Caliper piston seems clean, no rust. Everything looks good, but now I am wondering how one rotor got dinged up. Any ideas ? Picked up some junk on the ramp maybe?
One thing that got my attention was @Roger Vrooman mentioned an equalizing zerk ? Where exactly is that, and what does it equalize?
I also checked the master cylinder, looks ok, but I may bleed the brakes.
Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Neutron]

Took off the caliper today with the intention of removing rotors, getting them ground down a bit, and finding out what the issue is with mine. One rotor was scored, so I thought the brake pads were worn, or some other issue.
Turns out, all the pads are fine, worn only a little, and only 1 rotor is scored, and not even enough to bother removing to clean up. Caliper piston seems clean, no rust. Everything looks good, but now I am wondering how one rotor got dinged up. Any ideas ? Picked up some junk on the ramp maybe?
One thing that got my attention was @Roger Vrooman mentioned an equalizing zerk ? Where exactly is that, and what does it equalize?
I also checked the master cylinder, looks ok, but I may bleed the brakes.
Any thoughts here would be greatly appreciated.

The equalizing zerk is in the underside of the center pivot between the two tires.
As far as why one rotor is scorn could be air in the lines on one side. Try bleeding could help

 

[swatski]

One thing that got my attention was @Roger Vrooman mentioned an equalizing zerk ? Where exactly is that, and what does it equalize?

THat's funny, I couldn;t find the darned thing either while it is right there!
One of mine was inoperable, I don't recall what I did, I think I had to disassemble it and clean it out, dried-up blockage.

--

 

[granpachuck]

The equalizing zerk is in the underside of the center pivot between the two tires.
As far as why one rotor is scorn could be air in the lines on one side. Try bleeding could help

With a car, you are supposed to bleed in a certain order, starting at the furthest wheel. Any idea which I should start with? If I remember correctly, I think the passenger side is where the T connector is for the drivers side wheel. I have the same oil extractor, will try that idea. Thanks.

 

[granpachuck]

With a car, you are supposed to bleed in a certain order, starting at the furthest wheel. Any idea which I should start with? If I remember correctly, I think the passenger side is where the T connector is for the drivers side wheel. I have the same oil extractor, will try that idea. Thanks.

Found this on bleeding these type of brakes.

 

[granpachuck]

Found this on bleeding these type of brakes.

So, I finished bleeding the brakes, master cylinder first, then both wheels. I used the method in the video, I like the idea of pushing the fluid towards the wheels as opposed to pulling it with vacuum. It seems pulling with an extractor is a viable method, but if you have a 2nd person to pump the actuator, you can go that route.
The other rabbit hole was that equalizer zerk ! Didn't know it was there, so of course I had to try greasing it, was all clogged up, removed them, got grease flowing thru it, but after re inserting to the frame, grease doesn't seem to want to flow. I am wondering if this zerk was placed there just to torture me. Both sides, same result. I may try to forget its there.
I also found the source of an occasional rattle that was bugging me. The plastic wheel cover slaps against the trailer frame , so I padded that with some left over Noico.
Anyhow, thanks to everyone that contributed here for the advice. My tow vehicle isnt very large, so good brakes gives me peace of mind.

 

[Bubba7827]

Just finished my brake caliper replacement. This thread was helpful. Thanks,

 

[WestMIJet]

Picked mine up from storage last week and my brakes locked up in reverse. This is what I found. Thanks storage guys! They pinched the wire to the solenoid in the breakaway tongue.

 

[Cambo]

Went to lube up the piston but did not have the correct Allen head its on order. But I did take a screwdriver and shift the caliper around it moves about 1/4 '' it was very stiff and dragged lubed up the tips of the brake pads and the exposed area of the slider pins then took a syringe with a needle head and pumped a decent amount of liquid film into the cavity of the rubber boot. Everything moves very freely now.

 

[InmyElement]

So, I finished bleeding the brakes, master cylinder first, then both wheels. I used the method in the video, I like the idea of pushing the fluid towards the wheels as opposed to pulling it with vacuum. It seems pulling with an extractor is a viable method, but if you have a 2nd person to pump the actuator, you can go that route.
The other rabbit hole was that equalizer zerk ! Didn't know it was there, so of course I had to try greasing it, was all clogged up, removed them, got grease flowing thru it, but after re inserting to the frame, grease doesn't seem to want to flow. I am wondering if this zerk was placed there just to torture me. Both sides, same result. I may try to forget its there.
I also found the source of an occasional rattle that was bugging me. The plastic wheel cover slaps against the trailer frame , so I padded that with some left over Noico.
Anyhow, thanks to everyone that contributed here for the advice. My tow vehicle isnt very large, so good brakes gives me peace of mind.

The first year greasing everything up..I found the same issue with the equalizer zerk. If you jack up that side taking the pressure off the leaf springs and suspension the grease flows in and you can see it exit the sides, verifying its in there pushing out the old grease. I do it a couple of times during the season and before I put it away for winter to remove any water.

 

[InmyElement]

Found this on bleeding these type of brakes.

Thanks for the video!!! Just found it, when I realized its been almost 5 years and I haven't bled them at all, just every year checked the fluid level. Will put it on my to do list for the spring.

 

[Dixemon]

How are these calipers holding up. I take it they are being used in salt water? Im currently looking for replacement calipers and the pistons are definitely going to be stainless. I havent quite determined the benefits of aluminum over zinc plate caliper bodies. They sell an all stainless DB35.

 

[Neutron]

How are these calipers holding up. I take it they are being used in salt water? Im currently looking for replacement calipers and the pistons are definitely going to be stainless. I havent quite determined the benefits of aluminum over zinc plate caliper bodies. They sell an all stainless DB35.

My aluminum calipers with stainless pistons ore holding up just fine. No issues at all.

 

[scokill]

My aluminum calipers with stainless pistons ore holding up just fine. No issues at all.

I have MFI trailer but same calipers. I had one frozen up years ago and replaced and the other original from 14 years ago is just fine. So strange.

 

[Cambo]

Getting ready for the summer road trips went for the full stainless steel version . Amazon had the best prices

UFP DB-35 Stainless Steel Disc Brake Caliper, Right Side #41056R

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Amazon.com: UFP by Dexter DB-35 Stainless Steel Disc Brake Caliper, Left Side #41056L : Automotive

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They should be in next week but in preparation I loosened all the bolts knowing that would be the biggest time killer I couldn't fit my hex 3/8 socket due the the leaf spring u bolt so it was removed . Below are the items used to get those allen head bolts out Mine were 3/8 not 9mm

 

[Cambo]

Install completed I was deciding if the aluminum with stainless was the way to go but the full stainless is really nice the pads even have a stainless backer plate