SIMRAD GO7 install, need advice

[Neutron]

@Neutron any other pictures of mount and how are the displays as far as reading bottom items?

Here is a few more pics of the transom mount.
Because of the angle forward i had to shim the right side bolt with a short stack of stainless washers. I also used large thick stainless washers on both sides of the hull to improve strength and spread it over a greater area. I used 1/4 20 bolts and nuts. Easily reached after removing the cover that surrounds the 2 clean out ports.

 

[Neutron]

Here is the only pic i have of the Go7 mount (boat is coverd up right now)
If ya zoom in you can see how the mount is. I used a small piece of starboard and doubled it up for strength. Mounted it from the underside on the side. I painted the Starboard low gloss black and I shaved it to match the shape of the ram_mount base so it it clean and out of the way. I find for a 7 inch screen it is in the perfect spot so that it doesnt abstruct the view or ability to access any of the dash or controls
If ya want next time boat is uncovered i will get more detailed pic of that setup

 

[deancastor]

This is where mine was installed. I didn't do it but just turned it over to Marina. It has worked well.

 

[njmr2fan]

Heres mine on our 190

 

[WTScott]

I may have missed the info, but how is this working with your side scan on the left side? I assume you are getting blocked a bit by the Cobras and jet?

Thanks for the info.

 

[njmr2fan]

If it is Im certainly not noticing it.

 

[Neutron]

I doubt the angle is that shallow. I am sure the pump and fins are well high enough

 

[WTScott]

@njmr2fan - Thanks again for the info. Did you cut your cable or drill the full size hole in the transom to pull connector through? Assuming you backed up screws for the transducer mount? Also, any trouble running the cable up to the console.

Seems your solution is optimal - any advice on mounting a trolling motor!

 

[njmr2fan]

@WTScott, I drilled out the smallest hole that would allow the wire through. On the inside of the hull I patched the hull with a cone shape glob of epoxy putty. It wasn't touched for 24hrs. After that I used 3M 4200 on the outside of the penetration. I'm very comfortable that this penetration will not leak.

 

[WTScott]

OK, took a shot at the ride plate installation. We will see how it works out and can always move it to another location if there is a problem. As noted drilling the aluminum plate is very easy - used a #20 drill and #10 self tapping SS 1/2 inch screws. With four mounting points the transducer is solid as a rock. Ran the cables up beside the motor and cut inside the tunnel to keep the wires off the back end. Again, will see if it works out - hoping so.

Concern is that there will be some shadowing due to the keel but depending on where the sonar emits that may or may not be significant. As long as I don't get any ghosting or interference from reflected signals I can live with this.

The transducer is a little exposed but has some protection from the keel and jet inlet.

Hope to get out on the lake this weekend and will post update on performance (or not).

 

[WTScott]

Early feed back on position is good - got good readings on sonar up till over 30 which is about all they promise under any conditions. Side scan appeared to be working well but not a lot to see in our part of the lake at 8 to 12 foot depths. All of the options on sonar gave good feedback. Unfortunately I am not a pro with the fishfinder so I might not know what is missing or not perfect. I will keep evaluating. I do like the transponder being out of the way and the clean look with the ride plate mount.

Here are the final fitted out pictures.

IMG_5237

• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

IMG_5231

• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

IMG_5241

• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

IMG_5257

• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

 

[Neutron]

Nice clean install....
I get good sonar readings well beyond 45mph. Maybe being behind the transom has something to do with that. Not sure

 

[Ehren]

Hey folks... I have a 2017 Yamaha FSH 190 and just purchased the Simrad GO7 xse with Total Scan Transducer.

I realize that this post is a little old but was curious if anyone had any additional feedback on their installation choices (Transom vs Ride Plate) for the Simrad Total Scan transducer. Any noted issues with Side Scan imaging issues that may be caused by the Ride Plate or even the Jet Drive or Thrust Vector plates?

@WTScott , Are you using a mounting plate from Simrad on your Ride Plate install? were there any other additional parts that you needed to complete the Transducer installation? Also, in one of the pictures, it appears as though the front of the Tranducer may exceed past the front of the Ride Plate. Have you noticed any issued with cavitation or image quality at speed?

Sorry for all the questions on an older post... just figured I would try and ask a few folks that have run through the process...

 

[WTScott]

@Ehren - As you have figured out, there is no perfect solution to the mounting of the transducer on our FSH's. I am happy with mine, mounted to the ride plate with a Lowrance adapter - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GL793LM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .

It keeps pretty good resolution at all speeds, good at trolling / fishing speeds and loses everything when backing up (I think all of them do). The side scan works but I can't tell if there is some loss due to blocking or shading. Our lake averages about 15 feet so not a lot of deep places to test it.

My concern was that the transducer sticks out pretty far but it you can live with that, the transom mount is probably the best. I wanted the most protection (stumpy lake) and least exposed. I was willing to give up a bit of resolution for that.

Good Luck / Scott

 

[Ehren]

@WTScott Thanks for all the feedback as well as the link to the adapter... I really like the look and protection factor of the ride plate mount and will probably attempt that installation method first to see how it performs out in the gulf of mexico.
Based on your feedback so far, it doesn't sound like you are seeing be any sidescan issues with the transducer being next to the keel or with resolution at speed. Hoping that this translates however, if your not seeing any issues at 15 feet, it may stand to reason that I would experience similar results at deeper depths (hopefully)...

Did you end up cutting your transducer cable to penetrate the transom with a smaller hole or did you cut the recommended size hole to allow the transducer connector to pass through? Any other feedback you may have is always welcome...

Thanks,
Ehren

 

[WTScott]

@Ehren

I certainly would not cut the cable unless as a last resort. As noted above, I cut the smallest possible hole - you can see it in one of my pictures. I took a black rubber stopper and drilled a slot the size of the cable and ran it through the transom and plugged up everything with sealer. I then put the stainless fitting over the hole and filled it up with sealer as well - a little overkill but certainly no leaks. The transducer cable is very easy to run up to the console under the deck in the existing openings.

 

[Ehren]

@WTScott Just checking in to see how the transducer mount is holding up. Time has not been on my side lately so I am just getting around to try and attempt the same mount with mine. I ended up purchasing some #10 SS bolts and lock washers and lock nuts however I noticed that you ended up using #10 SS self tapping screws and was curious how they are holding up. The space above the keel plate is pretty tight and I am trying to avoid removing it to install the Transducer if at all possible (not sure of torque specs for reassembly).

 

[njmr2fan]

I'm sure you can carefully drill and tap the holes, then use loctite thread adhesive.

 

[njmr2fan]

Nice clean install....
I get good sonar readings well beyond 45mph. Maybe being behind the transom has something to do with that. Not sure

I get good readings to about 30mph.

 

[Ehren]

I'm sure you can carefully drill and tap the holes, then use loctite thread adhesive.

That was sort of my plan only drilling straight through the aluminum plate and then using lock washers and lock nuts instead of threading into the aluminum. Although once threaded into the 1/2" aluminum plate, there does appear to be more than enough metal there to ensure a solid hold on the screws...