[SOLVED] Chasing a no Spark condition on LS2000 Starboard Motor

[DNUGENTUSMC]

So this motor has been running great, only issue was the starter had to be whacked with a wrench from time to time in order to get it to crank which then it would fire up effortlessly every time. Replacing the starter solenoid did not help but was a cheap replacement anyway.
So I put a new starter in (extremely easy on starboard motor) and it now cranked every single time with no issue. However, a few days later it would crank but not start.

Using an inline tester I determined none of the 3 brand new plugs were getting spark, also determined this wasn’t due to the lanyard switch removing it completely which had the same issue of port side starting and starboard still no spark.

So getting into the CDI box,
The 10amp AGC fuse was good

“pulse coil” read about 268ohms between all 3 windings (248-372 is spec so it’s good)

“charge coil” read 190ohms from B/R to Brown (172-258 spec so good) but B/R to Blue is open.

Would an open winding on the charge coil create a no spark condition? Technically that should be a completely different coil than the pulse coil which is what sends the spark?

How do I test the voltage regulator/rectifier and the CDI box itself or should I just swap those one by one and see if the problem follows the part?

 

[84rzv500r]

yep pulsers almost never go bad charge/stator goes bad all the time usually burns up one of the wires... cheap ones last a year OEM last better... If you get good at it you can change one in about an hour... no need to pull the engine... you will need to be related to a bat to hang upside down and gumby to reach but its doable... I used to have a spare cover ready to go at all times... take a little longer if you have the oil injector pumps and cables...

in 5 years I only changed a CDI once and it wasnt really bad (i was chasing a strange ground issue) and never changed a rectifier regulator i put about 1500 hours on my LS/AR210 If your nice to the engines 300 or so hours is all you'll get before you need to re-ring it.

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

yep pulsers almost never go bad charge/stator goes bad all the time usually burns up one of the wires... cheap ones last a year OEM last better... If you get good at it you can change one in about an hour... no need to pull the engine... you will need to be related to a bat to hang upside down and gumby to reach but its doable... I used to have a spare cover ready to go at all times... take a little longer if you have the oil injector pumps and cables...

in 5 years I only changed a CDI once and it wasnt really bad (i was chasing a strange ground issue) and never changed a rectifier regulator i put about 1500 hours on my LS/AR210 If your nice to the engines 300 or so hours is all you'll get before you need to re-ring it.

What?
So are you saying the open winding in the charge coil CAN cause a no spark condition?

 

[84rzv500r]

yes there three tests for the stator, all three have to be in the proper OHM range or there is no voltage provided to the CDI to light the spark

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

yes there three tests for the stator, all three have to be in the proper OHM range or there is no voltage provided to the CDI to light the spark

Oh gotcha. What’s the 3rd test? I only did charging coil and pulse coil.

 

[84rzv500r]

ignition coil... and you should check the CDI.... as you need to check that the white and black are not in continuity with engine in the run/start...
however you state B/R - L is open that is not in spec of 656 to 984 ohms, open would indicate that the wire burned up as usual and you should replace charge coil/stator...
what your email ill send you the service manual...

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

ignition coil... and you should check the CDI.... as you need to check that the white and black are not in continuity with engine in the run/start...
however you state B/R - L is open that is not in spec of 656 to 984 ohms, open would indicate that the wire burned up as usual and you should replace charge coil/stator...
what your email ill send you the service manual...

Ignition coils? I actually can’t get a resistance reading on them but I can’t imagine all 3 gave up.
I ordered a new stator so hopefully that’ll fix it.

I have the service manual lol, look at the OP screen shot

 

[84rzv500r]

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

I believe I may have found out how the aftermarket stators burn up so quickly. The Brown and Blue wires are wired backwards every time. I requested an Amazon replacement after realizing this on the first one. However, after the second one being wired exactly the same, I don’t think it’s coincidence.

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

Finally pulled off the cover to replace the stator and found some physical damage that is likely the issue.

Most likely the screws loosened up and vibrated their threads apart causing the stator itself to shift and become physically damaged. So now I can return the aftermarket stator and ordered a used stator on eBay with the charging and pulser coils already installed. Hopefully they ohm out good and hold up.

 

[84rzv500r]

yeah been there had that happen, a drop of locktite blue and proper torque will prevent that... ive also had the flywheel nut come loose and causes similar issues.... the cheap vs OEM stator issue still remains.. I ran those engines nearly every day for 5 years... Interesting never had a carb problem, mostly stators, engine mounts go bad and take out the mid bearing and, snagging a ring on the exhaust port is common as there wear out in about 250-300 hours and need a top end refresh... all in all tough little engines if not short lived... I got tired of maintenance on the engines and converted over to 160 HP MR-1's... now i just deal l with changing spark plugs and oil/filter changes and enjoy the silence of the engines and the vastly improved cruise fuel economy. plug the YDS in every few months to check on things and bobs your uncle

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

. the cheap vs OEM stator issue still remains..

Yeah I’m willing to bet the aftermarket stators will run just fine if you swap the wires so the resistance readings are correct.

 

[84rzv500r]

they do for about a year...

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

they do for about a year...

Exactly, just long enough for that 200ohm coil to burn out from having 700ohms worth of power pulled through it.

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

New (used) stator and stator cover worked great!

Dickhead on eBay cut the harness extremely short so I had to extend it to reach the CDI box.

Now I gotta figure out how to stuff everything back IN the CDI box but at least she’s running 100% again.

 

[Noah’s Arch]

Hey bud, I'm dealing with this now. Did you have to pull your engine to get to the stator?

 

[DNUGENTUSMC]

Hey bud, I'm dealing with this now. Did you have to pull your engine to get to the stator?

It can be done without pulling if you lean in and use a small 1/4” ratchet or even an air ratchet.

 

[Tokyo24]

ignition coil... and you should check the CDI.... as you need to check that the white and black are not in continuity with engine in the run/start...
however you state B/R - L is open that is not in spec of 656 to 984 ohms, open would indicate that the wire burned up as usual and you should replace charge coil/stator...
what your email ill send you the service manual...

Hi, I know it's been a long time since this post was closed, but I'm having the same problem on both engines, can you help me with the repair manual?