Spark Plug Socket Mishap

[Hike]

I thought I'd share what happened on my first ride of the season last weekend after changing plugs.
I had swapped out the spark plugs in my 2008 sx230 using a 5/8 spark plug socket, the kind with the rubber grommet inside to hold the plugs. When putting the ignition plugs back on, I noticed I didn't have a perfect flush over one of the cylinders (port) but didn't think too much of it since the it was fine after bolting it down. Engines started up, no problem.
Go to launch, starts up fine again. After 45 seconds of WOT (wide open throttle), the port engine shuts off, no warning lights, no sounds of misfiring. Tried again, same thing happened, limped back home. Checked my socket to find the rubber grommet was missing! Sure enough it was the cylinder that was slightly off. It took me 20 min with a needle nose and the 5/8 socket to try and get that sucker out of there, but it finally came out.


Went out again with the confidence that all is fixed and the same thing happened again.. port engine dies 45 sec after WOT. Turned off both engines, scratched my head and tried again. Maybe the ECU had to clear? It was fine after that for the rest of the weekend. We had a great time after that!

Note: I had upgraded to Iridium plugs (CR9EIX) and swapped out my air filters with Riva Racing K&N Filters, I gained about 200 RPMs on the tach to about 10,200!

 

[Babin Farms]

Seeing you weren’t getting spark in that one cyl. it had to burn the extra fuel in there in order to run right. That’s why it took a couple of times to get it to go. It was basically flooded. Kinda like a 2 stroke engine needing to “clean it out” when plugs start to foul. Go for a nice long run at high rpm’s ?

 

[Weeb]

Maybe wet the rubber with some wd-40 next time in the middle where the plug goes.

 

[Hike]

Thanks for the insight.

 

[Babin Farms]

Use the socket with rubber to remove and a regular socket to install new plugs

 

[F.M.]

Use a magnetic socket.

 

[I_squared_r]

Use the socket with rubber to remove and a regular socket to install new plugs

I was a mechanic for 7 years and this happens. Your suggestion is a good idea for a stubborn spark plug socket. But be careful not to drop the spark plug down the tube and damage the tip. I use the grabbing tool to gently drop the plug down the tube. This tool also would help to remove the rubber from around the spark plug. They're super cheap from auto part stores and good to have in the toolbox

 

[Aaron T]

I’ve spent some years being a mechanic as well. One trick we would use is vacuum hose. take spark plug to hardware or auto parts store. Grab a piece of vacuum house for vehicles that fit the tip of the spark plug. Install tip of spark plug into vacuum hose. Gently place spark plug down into cylinder , making sure not to damage or crush spark plug grounding diode.
This makes it easy to get the spark plug down in the hole, not over tighten or cross thread prior to tightening to spec. Hope this helps.

 

[Beachbummer]

I got a magnetic socket with no o ring. So far so good. It's got enough force to hold the spark plug, but releases when it's supposed to. Not bad.

 

[captras]

I simply use a set of long nose pliers when I change the plugs. Easy in, easy out.

 

[Hike]

All great suggestions for next season, thanks!

 

[Hike]

A quick note on the NGK iridium plugs, I tested the gap on all of them with a feeler tool prior to install being careful not to rub the Iridium tip. They were all factory gapped at .8mm. Spec on the MR-1 Is .7-.8 mm. My guess is these plugs are gapped correctly 99.9% of the time, next time I might skip the gap check. Do you guys always check?

 

[tdonoughue]

I'll be honest: I used to check these religiously, but I found with these that they were always right. And with the cardboard protector on them, I don't see how the gap could really get messed up. Now, if I drop it without the cardboard or the cardboard is missing, I would definitely regap. Otherwise, I just pop them in. Have not had any issues...

 

[I_squared_r]

A quick note on the NGK iridium plugs, I tested the gap on all of them with a feeler tool prior to install being careful not to rub the Iridium tip. They were all factory gapped at .8mm. Spec on the MR-1 Is .7-.8 mm. My guess is these plugs are gapped correctly 99.9% of the time, next time I might skip the gap check. Do you guys always check?

I worked with a lot of automotive mechanics and all did a visual check to see if the tip was damaged. If the gap is wrong then it's likely that someone dropped the spark plug at the auto parts store or supply chain. Only time that I would check the gap if it were a mission critical application like aircraft, performance vehicles, or difficult to access spark plugs. My Ducati's were like that, it was a lot of work to change that top spark plug.

 

[Looper7]

I swear by these rubber installation tools plug can't fall out and can't cross thread oh and they are cheap

 

[gwrace1]

Save yourself a few bucks and buy the Champion tool on Amazon.

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[Hike]

Help! Ever since I fixed this issue of removing the rubber grommet that sandwiched between the spark plug and ignition wire, this same port engine hasn’t been the same. It has been shutting off randomly at WOT. No engine warning lights. It starts back up but is discerning. My only guess is that maybe the plug is fouled? When it’s on, the engine sounds normal and idles steady.
Any ideas??

 

[Beachbummer]

Check your clean out kill switch. vibration might be triggering the switch to kill the engine. Correlation is not causation.

 

[Hike]

the clean out kill switch seems ok.
Just checked the spark plugs and they look fine.
The port engine does sound thinner and has less bass then starboard engine. Could that indicate something?

 

[ctyke]

Arcing could have messed up the connector/coil? Since I don't have my boat yet, do they have have the coil on the plug? I thought so, but don't remember, but that could be messed up. Can those be tested? or Swaped with the other engine to see if problem follows?