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Spark plug upgrade

aaron jansen

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Hello everyone,

Does anyone know the type/model number of spark plugs I can buy to upgrade the current ones in my boat?

I have a 2015 AR 190 and I heard that iridium may increase performance a little.

Looking to get anything extra I can out of the boat since I'm stuck with it. Probably should have got a 192 vs 190 but what's done is done.
 

GiddYupJoe

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Last edited:

blacksapphirez

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I put in auto lite double platinums when it was on sale during thanksgiving. No noticeable difference from factory even though it was the longer one. Adjusted gap to factory also
 

swatski

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Hello everyone,
Does anyone know the type/model number of spark plugs I can buy to upgrade the current ones in my boat?
I have a 2015 AR 190 and I heard that iridium may increase performance a little.
Looking to get anything extra I can out of the boat since I'm stuck with it. Probably should have got a 192 vs 190 but what's done is done.
Responding to the quote and conversation here.

I run iridiums, but that's not a performance upgrade.

With the 1.8l N/A engines there are no huge gains to be had on a budget, but you can make them run a lot smoother and make them come very close to match the power of a stock 1.8l SC engine (used in 192s) with reasonably inexpensive mods, while almost doubling fuel efficiency (as compared to SC).

1.8l N/A is the SAME engine that powers the newer VXR/VXS skis. In that regard, GreenHulk forum is a good resource, and you can get a 10% discount on parts. But... not everything translates well into boats.

1. Ribbon delete. Cost (per engine): between $0 and ~$250
The most easy and cost effective mod. You will gain about 200 RPM in a 190 boat, along with 1-3 mph increase in top speed.
You can check @SamCF threads, here and on the other site. Complete no brainer and very effective. No need to do anything else, but if you want to play it safe, couple that with:
- RIVA air filter (or equivalent) - gets you the flame arrestor and USCG compliance (I used a cheap automotive equivalent)
http://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=2153&zenid=tt69pbhps8nfft5hemtc8klep6
- RIVA intake manifold ring - supposedly improves air flow (I did not install that)
http://www.4-tecperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=&products_id=2153&zenid=tt69pbhps8nfft5hemtc8klep6

2. ECU reflash. Cost (per engine): ~$600-900
Bumps the rev limiter up, so your speed gains will depend on the set up. With a stock impeller you will gain at least 200-300 RPM along with 2-3 mph top speed, but the real gains are in low and mid-range torque. A very safe way to increase and improve the power band, if you use a "canned tune". In that case, it is either a send-out of your own ECU unit to R&D, or a purchase of V-Tech Maptuner and a tuning license. I have the V-tech system purchased through Greenhulk store, love it.
http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=235501&highlight=vtech+ecu+yamaha
Great upgrade, not exactly cheap. Premium fuel highly recommended. But, you do not need any accompanying engine mods up to the Stage 2 level. After that it gets EXPENSIVE.

3. Pump/impeller/ride plate upgrades. Cost: ~$100 (for basic impeller cleanup)
This is the most tricky and also somewhat under-researched area for performance upgrades in our boats.
I have come to believe that the most time and cost effective modification here is actually sealing and blueprinting the pump, and truing the impeller/wear ring to specs.
That said, I am actively pursuing a hot setup with an aftermarket impeller/wear ring/cone combination - no success yet.

My top speed (with the above and OEM pump) is 48.3mph (gps), running with a full tank of gas, heavy tower, bimini, 200-300lbs of sound deadening, 9ft Keel Shield, Cobra Ultimate steering, bunch of random gear and a kind of dirty hull, too... You get the picture. I can haul 1,800 lbs of ballast and go over 35mph... Fuel economy is great, you can easily exceed 4mpg in light cruising.
 
Last edited:

Vito Aiello

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Is the Vtec tune the mod which gave you the most in speed or is it the pump sealing
 

swatski

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Is the Vtec tune the mod which gave you the most in speed or is it the pump sealing
Sealing the pump is a must if you want to have any performance, and the cost is just labor and a tube of 5200. There can also be leaks at the transom plate, in addition to around the intake.

ECU reflash per se gives only incremental top speed gains with 1.8l N/A engines. But if you combine it with repitching the impeller, you can spin it up higher (with higher rev limiter) and get some more substantial speed gains. But it will not ever be a speed demon.
I played with it enough in my sx190 to get it out of my system, and ended up with a very nice setup that gave me low-40s speeds but a killer low end for pulling and cruising.
 

Vito Aiello

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Now when you say leaks you mean parts that are missing sealant (5200)? I noticed some sealed missing just inside right before the impeller. Also my intake grate has no sealant at all just around the bolts. Also does the keel guard help with speed? My stock impeller looks good. The boat has 100hours & has been well taken care of. I am in need of a service also. The oil was changed 60 hours ago but same plugs since 10 hour service.
 

swatski

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Now when you say leaks you mean parts that are missing sealant (5200)? I noticed some sealed missing just inside right before the impeller. Also my intake grate has no sealant at all just around the bolts. Also does the keel guard help with speed? My stock impeller looks good. The boat has 100hours & has been well taken care of. I am in need of a service also. The oil was changed 60 hours ago but same plugs since 10 hour service.
What I meant with the intake is just the intake duct, and where it connects to the transom plate, and then the impeller housing segments. Yamaha doesn't seem to be using 5200. You can use any sealant rated as waterproof (for submerged/under water applications).

I would definitely do oil and spark plug change (use NGK LFR6As - those are OEM and the best).
 

Vito Aiello

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Do you seal the perimeter of the intake grate also. It appears that everything has been sealed except for the intake grate
 

swatski

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Do you seal the perimeter of the intake grate also. It appears that everything has been sealed except for the intake grate
I don't believe it is necessary. Wouldn't hurt anything neither.
 

aaron jansen

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When you seal the pump, what exactly are you doing? I mean it sounds easy...but where do I access it from and why wasn't it sealed to begin with?

Does this just help direct the water flow better?
 

swatski

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Transom plate maybe seated onto the transom w/missing sealant -- have gaps -- from factory. Need to pull the pump off to get to it. If it is serious - may need to pull the transom plate off of the transom, too. Otherwise remove loose sealant and reseal the best you can, you are basically sealing the spaces between pump segments that may allow air entry.
Some use blue RV sealant between the wear ring and Venturi nozzzle, but that is usually not a source of major issues.
Jerry Gaddis has a very nicely illustrated thread on transom plate sealing on green hulk, I'll try to post the link later. It is a ski, but the same issue.
 
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