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Starboard motor cutting out while cruising

euro_e30

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
99
Reaction score
23
Points
107
Location
Hampstead, NC
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2005
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
Was out on the boat today (after putting two new ecu in due to injector / fueling issues) she ran great last week but today when we went out and was cruising at 7.5k for about 2-3 min with a small chop the port motor just cut off , I then started it back up and ran good for a little then cut off again, started it once again and it cut off after a even shorter period. This time I was not able to start it and had to limp home on one

Once I got home I tried to start on land no luck I pulled the plugs to inspect and they looked dry , did the injector test through yds all checked out and ran the fuel pump test all good . Then she started right up on land

Two things I’m thinking I don’t think it’s the clean out hatch sensors as every time it stalled it would crank ( correct me if I’m understanding this incorrectly )

Secondly is it a fuel pump issue? Weird that it checks out in yds and runs on land fine

Thinking of trying it again in the water tomorrow but would love any input
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but there is one fuel pump in the tank for both motors ? If so if one motor runs good then theoretically the other should to ?
 
Correct me if I’m wrong but there is one fuel pump in the tank for both motors ? If so if one motor runs good then theoretically the other should to ?
Should be seperate fuel pumps for each. You could swap to see if it transfers to the other
 
There are only 2 switches that could be loosing contact and could fail (loose intermit contact) and shut down ignition) The neutral safety switch..... one switch per engine in throttle and the lanyard switch...... a single switch that has 2 sides in one(both motors). The lanyard switch can fail just on one engine without effecting the other engine.

Since you have spent a lot of time/money chasing issues......... both can be hard wired bypassed for testing purposes.
 
Jump and shake the rear hatch, same for the landyard switch , both frequent failure points.
 
I would check the kill switches at the lanyard. Your lanyard key could be worn, preventing the proper positioning of the switches and a motor from starting.
 
Thanks for the input I’m going to bypass the rear hatch switching to rule that out, I’m aware of the land yard switch I should be able to bypass this as well , wasn’t aware of a neutral switch in the throttle any thing I should be looking for to have this one done ?
 
The neutral safety switch, if not in neutral, will prevent the motors from cranking over, silence. The other switches will allow cranking of the motor, but they will not fire, if I recall correctly. Someone will correct me if I am in error. An out of position neutral safety switch issue brought me to this forum in 2016. Never had any issues with the other switches.
 
You are correct the sometimes my brain switch does not work................the only switch that can shut a motor off in mid stream and allow a motor to crank and not allow spark to fire the ignition is the Safety Lanyard switch. The hatch switch can kill the ignition but will not allow the motor to turn over in a re-start. The only way a hatch switch could act to shut down a motor in mid stream and allow a motor to turn over to start....... is if the switch or hatch is loose or miss adjusted,once a hatch makes contact and allows turn over it should fire up.

I read yours turns over with no restart.........so hatch is probably not it. The Lanyard like zipper said is your best bet.
 
Thanks that makes a lot of sense I don’t think it’s the neutral and sounds like the lanyard if it will crank but not start sometime I will check it out and give it a shot on the water today wish me luck! Thanks for all the great help as always !
 
To bypass the lanyard just unplug it.
 
Just by pass the lanyard and the port motor just cranks , I check the fuel pump with yds and fuel is coming out , any ideas what may be causing it to not to fire ?
 
I disconnect the lanyard switch and it’s showing that it’s still on on YDS any idea how to bypass this further ?
 
Normal open switch.........putting lanyard key in closes the switch allowing the ignition to remain on. Just unplugging a normal open switch it's now (open) in a shut off position. A bypass of a normal open switch you will need to plug in a jump wire that connects both wires together.........on the side of the plug that runs toward the ignition or away from the actual switch. The switch side you can leave open untouched no jumper.
 
Disconnected both wires from the lanyard , starboard was showing off on yds and port was still showing on , checked resistance on the port motor and was reading 0, there was a break somewhere I was able to trace the wires back and find where the break in the wires was and then bypassed it there , it then was showing off and port motor started right up.

Took the boat out to the sand bar and then to dinner about 40 min ride there and back rode great ! Think we’re back in action !
 
Where was the wire split?
 
Disconnected both wires from the lanyard , starboard was showing off on yds and port was still showing on , checked resistance on the port motor and was reading 0, there was a break somewhere I was able to trace the wires back and find where the break in the wires was and then bypassed it there , it then was showing off and port motor started right up.

Took the boat out to the sand bar and then to dinner about 40 min ride there and back rode great ! Think we’re back in action !
Thank you for posting your successful fix!
 
Where was the wire split?
It was by the starboard hatch in the wiring loom where the black and white wires connected the lanyard and key switch going from two wires to one , not sure if a split is the right term but once I split them there the land yard was reading good on YDS
 
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