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I drilled 4 holes one for each speaker using a step bit stopped at 3/4. I folded the tower down and fished my wires using solid 16 gauge wire. It was pretty simple to do by myself, I didn’t have any problem with the powder coat chipping either
Hi Everyone, new to this site but really happy I found it! I have a 2018 212 Limited S and I am wanting to tackle the stereo upgrade. I was thinking of starting with tower speakers and an amp. I haven't even looked yet, but are the inputs in the stereo unit under the console for an amp? How about spacing to mount the amp? Does adding an amp make the factory Polk speakers sound better? I'm on the fence about getting getting a SUB because Im assuming it will have to take up storage space to mount it (Unless I go under the driver seat.) If anyone has a picture of where they mounted their Sub that would be great.
Hi Everyone, new to this site but really happy I found it! I have a 2018 212 Limited S and I am wanting to tackle the stereo upgrade. I was thinking of starting with tower speakers and an amp. I haven't even looked yet, but are the inputs in the stereo unit under the console for an amp? How about spacing to mount the amp? Does adding an amp make the factory Polk speakers sound better? I'm on the fence about getting getting a SUB because Im assuming it will have to take up storage space to mount it (Unless I go under the driver seat.) If anyone has a picture of where they mounted their Sub that would be great.
Does the stereo unit have an input for the amp? I see you have individual power switches so I didnt know if you have the speakers going to another bluetooth type unit somewhere else VS the boat stereo.
Does the stereo unit have an input for the amp? I see you have individual power switches so I didnt know if you have the speakers going to another bluetooth type unit somewhere else VS the boat stereo.
The stereo has two sets of coaxial out so I split them to front and rear. Front runs one amp running the 4 cabin speakers and 2 swim deck speakers. It’s located in the helm with dedicated power running up to it. My rear audio output is split between two amps one dedicated to my wetsounds sound bar on the tower the other to a 10” sub by the passenger be cockpit seat. These amps are located in the battery compartment. I put up a power distribution bar (think that’s what it’s called) in there to take the power from the aux batter to the amps. I also went with large size cable and beefed up the stock “house” cable running from the aux batter to the house switch. All my amps are marine Polk’s as well as the 10” sub. I think it sounds great and that sound bar is insanely loud. The nice thing about the sound bar/sub being on the rear channel is you can use the headunit fade setting to adjust where you want more sound. Off the back fade to rear inside the cabin fade to front.
What gauge wiring did you use? Im assuming you beefed up the Aux battery cable running from the battery to the switch because it was now carrying all the extra load right?
Yeah I can double check but I believe I have 0 gauge from battery to switch and from the the switch to the power distribution block. And 4 going to each amp individually.
Do you have any LED light upgrades for the boat or anything like that also running off the house battery? I thinking about adding some under water and interior lighting as well as I didnt know if I should look into adding a new dedicated battery for the stereo? Have you have any issues with the house battery draining down? When we anchor I plan to shut the engine battery off so there is never an issue with not being able to start the boat, but I didnt know if having all the components on one battery would run it down?
I did add a fuse panel for added electrical such as my raw water was down pump and hard wired/tubed tube inflator. I don’t have any additional lighting added. I haven’t had any issues with my house battery dying yet I have that genius charger to top it up at the end of the day and my battery I believe has a reserve capacity of 140 which I don’t know if it’s high for only a group 24. This is the first year I added the sub so I’ll reevaluate how that house battery is handling after a few longer days on the water. We don’t blast the music unless underway to overcome the engine noise. With the isolated engine and house battery there isn’t any draw occurring on the engine battery unless someone accidentally switched the emergency combined switch on.
Nice, I have a Bandpass box with 2 - 10” subs in the large changing/ head compartment. It sounds awesome, but 2 sets of Rev10’s must sound really loud... ??????
The stereo has two sets of coaxial out so I split them to front and rear. Front runs one amp running the 4 cabin speakers and 2 swim deck speakers. It’s located in the helm with dedicated power running up to it. My rear audio output is split between two amps one dedicated to my wetsounds sound bar on the tower the other to a 10” sub by the passenger be cockpit seat. These amps are located in the battery compartment. I put up a power distribution bar (think that’s what it’s called) in there to take the power from the aux batter to the amps. I also went with large size cable and beefed up the stock “house” cable running from the aux batter to the house switch. All my amps are marine Polk’s as well as the 10” sub. I think it sounds great and that sound bar is insanely loud. The nice thing about the sound bar/sub being on the rear channel is you can use the headunit fade setting to adjust where you want more sound. Off the back fade to rear inside the cabin fade to front.
May be a stupid question, but do you have access to all the stock speaker wires from under the helm so you can connect them to an amp and then connect the amp to one of the outputs on the radio module? Or do you not need to mess with the stock speaker wires and simply connect the Amp to one of the outputs on the radio?