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Tow vehicle?

I know You know

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I'll be curious to know where you land.

Something to keep in mind. In terms of acceleration, stopping, and steady state cruising. Every pound of rotating weight is roughly equivalent to ~10lbs of static weight. This of course depends on where the weight is located in relation to the center line of the thing rotating of course, but it's a generally close rule of thumb to follow. SO, for me, dropping 15lbs a tire would be a total of 60lbs of rotating weight, or the equivalent of 600lbs of static weight. Imagine how your truck will feel if it was 600lbs lighter? Acceleration is improved, Deceleration is improved, and fuel efficiency should be improved. A caveat to this is that you can possibly get a "stickier" tire that is lighter and it will not improve fuel efficiency. This has to do with rolling resistance, but for the sake of this conversation we'll leave that out. In the fullsize segment, I don't think we're going to see big gains with LRR tires.

When talking tires, another thought to keep is unsprung weight. This unsprung weight is everything that is BELOW the springs on the truck. Axles, Bearings, Tires, Brake Pads, Calipers, etc. This is the amount of weight that the springs don't have to support, but the shocks have to maintain control of. A lighter wheel/tire assembly will generally give a similar effect of a stiffer damper. Less unsprung weight to control, so the non-variable force from the damper is a larger percentage of that, thus making it a "stronger" force to contend with.

These are some generalities, but should give you a good idea of what will happen with a heavier/lighter wheel/tire combo. You want the lightest wheel/tire combo you can find that fits the specs you desire.

And I'm serious about removing those spacers. You're adding significant loading to your suspension components, with wheel studs, bearings, and ball joints in particular getting a good hammering. The only time spacers are acceptable IMO is if you accompany their installation with a set of wheels that are offset differently. Center line of tire in relation to center line of bearing should remain as close to unchanged as feasible. Every little bit of distance offset from that factory designed arrangement is removing safety factor and life expectancy from those components. This is assuming it's a well manufactured spacer. Crappy made spacers can present a whole slew of other problems that include some pretty large safety concerns.
Alright, so I think I have narrowed it down to these 3 models in a 305/55/r20.....all Coopers 1. Discoverer STT Pro 2. Discoverer AT3 XLT 3. Discoverer S/T Maxx.

What do yo guys think?

Thanks,

Peter
 

suke

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AT3 XLT. The STT's are a little more aggressive and can be louder. If that's what you're going for then go for it.
 

Liveto99

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@2kwik4u When you go up with a lift kit you can go out with spacers it adds stability with a wider platform,but all that you said it true about wear and such. I went up 3"on my jeep and 3" out but never take it on the Hwy anymore and drive it off road 90 percent of the time. I trailer it to events.
 

swatski

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never take it on the Hwy anymore and drive it off road 90 percent of the time. I trailer it to events.
I so wish more people around here were like you!

--
 

Maccam26

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The negative was 8 mpg. !
Whoa... I tow with similar vehicle 2018 Grand Cherokee Trailhawk V6 8spd and highway ride at 70-75mph (75 being on the high end, more 72-73 avg.) we get 15mpg on average, my boat is a 19ft though but the 8spd ZF transmission I feel is a big difference. But on the plus side, your 4Runner will still be on the road in year 2078... and they look bada$$ ;)
 

Chris D

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20181104_161932.jpg
Not a 210 but it tows by ar195 nicely with a lift and larger tires.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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So guess update of my own... if I didn’t say so earlier, the 2014 4Runner pulls the 210 just fine. Our boat ramp is pretty steep and fairly long now that the water is down. Even with a little moss, there is no need to shift out of 2H with the 265/70/17 E rated General Grabber AT2's retrieving the boat. Just yanks it right out. Pulls ok in the hills too. Does have to dig deep on the steeper ones though. Keep thinking of slapping a 2.3 liter Whipple on it, but then the Wife reminds me of all her tickets the last time I surprised her with a supercharger.
 

Dixie Highway

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Is the 4 runner a V-6? If so that 2.3 Whipple isn’t likely the best choice...
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Zeusmotorworks

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As a side note... it is absolutely overkill if that is your stopping point.
 

Dixie Highway

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Yeah my thought was a blower that size on a 4.0 V-6 is less than efficient.
 

Zeusmotorworks

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Think hardly working would be a better way to phase it as it's not heating the air like a unit "sized for the application" usually does. There's math, then the real world. Seeing the things I've seen in aerospace manufacturing and then again in my rally car business has long since opened my eyes to non-conventional thinking. Like the great shade tree exhaust back pressure and you HAVE to turn your rotors myths (bullshit/crap).
 
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