bucks448
Jetboaters Lieutenant
- Messages
- 151
- Reaction score
- 61
- Points
- 172
- Location
- Sarasota, FL
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2012
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 19
This is the consolidated trim tab install on my SX190 from the other site...
===================================================
Post #1
This was shaping up to be a long read, so I put the results first and the install as the second part of the post.
BTW - the angle of the pictures make the actuators seem like they aren't at the same (mirrored) angles, but they are.
My goals were this in order of importance (for me)…
1. Maintain course on a plane without having to hold the helm.
2. More comfortable ride through chop and boat wake.
3. Slow speed (no wake) zones, maintain course when letting go of the helm…don't circle the wagons.
4. Correct listing
I've had the boat out once since putting the tabs on, and they did not disappoint. This is what I noticed.
1. I can steer the boat on a plane without touching the steering wheel and just using the tabs. It's pretty awesome. One thing though, I may have to reverse the controls. They are laid out with the concept that you're controlling the port and starboard height of the bow, so you push down on the port button to lower the port bow and it lowers the starboard tab forcing the port bow down. This also controls direction, probably more so on our boats without any type of rudder, so as you push the port bow down by lowering the starboard tab, this causes the boat to start turning starboard because of the drag from the starboard tab. I kept adjusting the wrong tab when trying to correct course based on the bow height concept and knowing which tab was deploying, so I'll probably just switch them.
2. I was running comfortable through chop at 30mph on the guessometer that without tabs I'd be at 22-23mph. It was great, and coupled with the directional control, it was a lot less tiresome.
3. Maintaining course off plane at slow speeds was moderately improved. It definitely didn't immediately start "circling the wagons" when I let go of the helm, but it wasn't a set it and forget it course. I may try fins for this, but I really need to try the tabs more on this to see how I like it. I didn't have to go through many slow speeds in the one outing with tabs.
4. Most of the time everyone one is pretty stationary once we're under way, but there was a lot of moving around on my first trials of the tabs, not on purpose. I was able to level the boat in seconds with the tabs. This would be the only time the control layout made sense to me, but I still pushed the wrong button a couple of times trying to control the tab, not the bow height.
5. I thought I'd add this, even though it wasn't one of my goals because it's a primary function of trim tabs. It even helps our boats plane faster with less bow rise. Also, it will keep the boat on a plane at slower speeds.
Overall, I'm very happy I put them on…on to the install...
Install -
Two weeks ago I worked with Bennet mocking up cardboard cutouts to see if it's possible to mount trim tabs on an SX190. They were very helpful on suggestions, measurements, and taking the time to review pictures of the mock-ups. Originally I was looking at the M120s, which would have worked, but I needed a piano hinge mount on the tab in order to secure it under the step in the transom. In the end, we decided to try the RIV1212PNC that were developed by RIVA and Bennet for the 230 series Yamaha boats.
It took me just about all day Saturday to get them installed. Between two trips to Lowes and an hour break around lunch, I estimate the whole install took about 5 hours. The hardest part was figuring out the mount point for the tab. It can't be placed flat against the vertical face of the step in the transom because fins of the tabs need to parallel the strakes of the hull. The vertical face of the step in the hull angles from the stern towards the bow as it slopes down toward the keel. The tab mount point along with the limited location to mount the port actuator because of the cut out for the swim later in the hull made for quite a job for one person. Because of this, I started with the port side.
Before I start, I want to note that Bennett recommended that I mount the actuator to the back of the swim platform.
However, this proved difficult for one person to do and there's little room for error. Also, one of the big deals for me was to conceal everything as much as possible under the swim platform.
The first thing I found out I had to do was drill new mount holes 7 5/8" from the hinge on the tab for the actuator. This was required for the actuator to angle far enough back and so it would contact the underside of the swim platform without extending past or over under the swim later. Also, this mount point allowed it to clear the vertical mount point at the very back of the actuator (side note: I'm planing on using that mount on the tabs for under water LEDs, eventually). BTW - the new mount point I made on the tab for the actuator puts it exactly in the same spot as it is on M120s and it's at the furthest point forward the Bennett recommended putting it. After I mounted the actuator to the new location on the tab, I held everything in place and marked the left most screw hole for the tab mount. I drilled this hole and put and put a small screw in to hold the tab while I held a straight edge along the strake to line up the tab and mark the furthest right screw hole. I drilled this hole and put in another small screw to hold the tab while I drilled all the other holes. I put 4200 on the tab mount and sealed the screw holes with it then mounted the tab. Mounting the actuator was as simple as holding up the actuator and putting the template behind it, drilling the holes, sealing with 4200, and screwing it in. I mirrored this same process on the starboard tab and actuator, but I used some measurements from the port side to get the initial placement.
I mounted the HPU and EIC relay above the battery on the wall of the engine compartment. It faces the port side of the boat and it almost as high as the back bench seat rest. It's a difficult to get to, and I have to slide the HPU out of the mount to work on it, but it's high, dry, and concealed. I forgot to take pictures of this, but even though I mounted it in a difficult to access location, it was probably the easiest part of the install. BTW - the EIC is an optional upgrade that includes the tab controls and position indicator in one unit and it automatically retracts the tabs when the key is turned off. Also, it comes with different actuators, so doing this upgrade after the fact is redoing about a quarter of the install.
Mounting the EIC display/controllers was one of the last things I did, and it was quite a let down to find out that directly behind the spot I drilled the 2" hole is a vertical piece of the fiberglass shell that makes up the enclosure for the helm. I ended up running the 2" hole saw in as far as I could and then using a dremel to finish notching it out. With the back rest of the starboard bow seat removed, I could just barely reach the two right most bolts of the EIC display, so for now it's just mounted with those two nylon nuts. There's no way to reach the other two bolts because of the fiberglass panel, so if needed I may put some double sided tape behind it. For now it's mounted good and doesn't seem like it will be a problem. I have to credit HndaTch627 for finding the 12V switched power source on the back of the ignition switch. I used this yellow/red wire coming off the switch for the LED display on the EIC and for the 12V source needed to identify when the engine is off and retract the tabs.
Being a one man show, I wasn't able to take pics of the install, but here's the end results.
Post #2
I was out messing with the boat this evening and took a couple pics of the HPU and EIC control unit. If you look directly at your battery, this is mounted on the wall to the left. You can see the fuel fill hose in a couple of the pictures to give you a reference.
BTW - the fluid is low because the tabs are fully extended.
Post #3
I sent Bennett pictures of my install and discussed it with them over the last two days. There's a concern of the longevity of the actuators due to the angle/position I had to mount them. They had sent me some shims for the actuators in case I needed them, and it looks like with some modification, they will relieve the stress on the actuators.
This is the actuator fully extended without moving it. Note: the shaft of the actuator will turn.
This is the shaft turned (which will occur naturally as it extends) to be flush with the tab.
Here's shots of the actuator mount points so you can see how much it has to flex.
Here's pictures of the shims, and after I adjusted them.
Post #4
Just closing the loop on the results of installing the shims...
The trim tabs performed just as good as before, and the shims should definitely relieve stress on the actuators.
This is a pic of the actuator fully extended once the shim was installed.
As you can tell from this pic, as the actuator extends and the shaft turns the mounting holes are inline.
The leaves the actuator head to flex naturally front to back as it was designed rather than also having to flex side to side causing stress. This should prolong the life of the actuator vs. installing w/o the modified shims. Time will tell.
If you're interested/planning to install trim tabs on, I'd recommend giving Bennett a call. Because of some of the changes I've made, I don't feel comfortable recommending a kit to order. They would be better to advise you. Although, I'll offer any help I can. This took a bit of effort to complete, but I'm 100% happy with the results.
Post #4
I didn't really go into the details on the M120s, and I probably should have. The problem is how they mount to the hull and their hinge. Because of the type of hinge, they have to be mounted on a vertical face. They can't be mounted to the vertical face of the step in the transom because it would cause the tabs to angle in, and the fins on the tabs wouldn't be parallel to the strakes in the hull. It would be like and tow-in alignment problem on a car, and could effect handling. The only other option to mount them would be to the very back of the transom which leaves no place to mount the actuator.
I did some cardboard mockups in the beginning based on Thomas' advice and measurements of the M120 tabs. I think you can see what I mean from the pictures below. The tabs from the RIV1212PNC kit have a piano hinge and are mounted to the bottom of the step, not the vertical face. This allowed them to be positioned so they paralleled the strakes in the hull.
===================================================
Post #1
This was shaping up to be a long read, so I put the results first and the install as the second part of the post.
BTW - the angle of the pictures make the actuators seem like they aren't at the same (mirrored) angles, but they are.
My goals were this in order of importance (for me)…
1. Maintain course on a plane without having to hold the helm.
2. More comfortable ride through chop and boat wake.
3. Slow speed (no wake) zones, maintain course when letting go of the helm…don't circle the wagons.
4. Correct listing
I've had the boat out once since putting the tabs on, and they did not disappoint. This is what I noticed.
1. I can steer the boat on a plane without touching the steering wheel and just using the tabs. It's pretty awesome. One thing though, I may have to reverse the controls. They are laid out with the concept that you're controlling the port and starboard height of the bow, so you push down on the port button to lower the port bow and it lowers the starboard tab forcing the port bow down. This also controls direction, probably more so on our boats without any type of rudder, so as you push the port bow down by lowering the starboard tab, this causes the boat to start turning starboard because of the drag from the starboard tab. I kept adjusting the wrong tab when trying to correct course based on the bow height concept and knowing which tab was deploying, so I'll probably just switch them.
2. I was running comfortable through chop at 30mph on the guessometer that without tabs I'd be at 22-23mph. It was great, and coupled with the directional control, it was a lot less tiresome.
3. Maintaining course off plane at slow speeds was moderately improved. It definitely didn't immediately start "circling the wagons" when I let go of the helm, but it wasn't a set it and forget it course. I may try fins for this, but I really need to try the tabs more on this to see how I like it. I didn't have to go through many slow speeds in the one outing with tabs.
4. Most of the time everyone one is pretty stationary once we're under way, but there was a lot of moving around on my first trials of the tabs, not on purpose. I was able to level the boat in seconds with the tabs. This would be the only time the control layout made sense to me, but I still pushed the wrong button a couple of times trying to control the tab, not the bow height.
5. I thought I'd add this, even though it wasn't one of my goals because it's a primary function of trim tabs. It even helps our boats plane faster with less bow rise. Also, it will keep the boat on a plane at slower speeds.
Overall, I'm very happy I put them on…on to the install...
Install -
Two weeks ago I worked with Bennet mocking up cardboard cutouts to see if it's possible to mount trim tabs on an SX190. They were very helpful on suggestions, measurements, and taking the time to review pictures of the mock-ups. Originally I was looking at the M120s, which would have worked, but I needed a piano hinge mount on the tab in order to secure it under the step in the transom. In the end, we decided to try the RIV1212PNC that were developed by RIVA and Bennet for the 230 series Yamaha boats.
It took me just about all day Saturday to get them installed. Between two trips to Lowes and an hour break around lunch, I estimate the whole install took about 5 hours. The hardest part was figuring out the mount point for the tab. It can't be placed flat against the vertical face of the step in the transom because fins of the tabs need to parallel the strakes of the hull. The vertical face of the step in the hull angles from the stern towards the bow as it slopes down toward the keel. The tab mount point along with the limited location to mount the port actuator because of the cut out for the swim later in the hull made for quite a job for one person. Because of this, I started with the port side.
Before I start, I want to note that Bennett recommended that I mount the actuator to the back of the swim platform.
However, this proved difficult for one person to do and there's little room for error. Also, one of the big deals for me was to conceal everything as much as possible under the swim platform.
The first thing I found out I had to do was drill new mount holes 7 5/8" from the hinge on the tab for the actuator. This was required for the actuator to angle far enough back and so it would contact the underside of the swim platform without extending past or over under the swim later. Also, this mount point allowed it to clear the vertical mount point at the very back of the actuator (side note: I'm planing on using that mount on the tabs for under water LEDs, eventually). BTW - the new mount point I made on the tab for the actuator puts it exactly in the same spot as it is on M120s and it's at the furthest point forward the Bennett recommended putting it. After I mounted the actuator to the new location on the tab, I held everything in place and marked the left most screw hole for the tab mount. I drilled this hole and put and put a small screw in to hold the tab while I held a straight edge along the strake to line up the tab and mark the furthest right screw hole. I drilled this hole and put in another small screw to hold the tab while I drilled all the other holes. I put 4200 on the tab mount and sealed the screw holes with it then mounted the tab. Mounting the actuator was as simple as holding up the actuator and putting the template behind it, drilling the holes, sealing with 4200, and screwing it in. I mirrored this same process on the starboard tab and actuator, but I used some measurements from the port side to get the initial placement.
I mounted the HPU and EIC relay above the battery on the wall of the engine compartment. It faces the port side of the boat and it almost as high as the back bench seat rest. It's a difficult to get to, and I have to slide the HPU out of the mount to work on it, but it's high, dry, and concealed. I forgot to take pictures of this, but even though I mounted it in a difficult to access location, it was probably the easiest part of the install. BTW - the EIC is an optional upgrade that includes the tab controls and position indicator in one unit and it automatically retracts the tabs when the key is turned off. Also, it comes with different actuators, so doing this upgrade after the fact is redoing about a quarter of the install.
Mounting the EIC display/controllers was one of the last things I did, and it was quite a let down to find out that directly behind the spot I drilled the 2" hole is a vertical piece of the fiberglass shell that makes up the enclosure for the helm. I ended up running the 2" hole saw in as far as I could and then using a dremel to finish notching it out. With the back rest of the starboard bow seat removed, I could just barely reach the two right most bolts of the EIC display, so for now it's just mounted with those two nylon nuts. There's no way to reach the other two bolts because of the fiberglass panel, so if needed I may put some double sided tape behind it. For now it's mounted good and doesn't seem like it will be a problem. I have to credit HndaTch627 for finding the 12V switched power source on the back of the ignition switch. I used this yellow/red wire coming off the switch for the LED display on the EIC and for the 12V source needed to identify when the engine is off and retract the tabs.
Being a one man show, I wasn't able to take pics of the install, but here's the end results.
Post #2
I was out messing with the boat this evening and took a couple pics of the HPU and EIC control unit. If you look directly at your battery, this is mounted on the wall to the left. You can see the fuel fill hose in a couple of the pictures to give you a reference.
BTW - the fluid is low because the tabs are fully extended.
Post #3
I sent Bennett pictures of my install and discussed it with them over the last two days. There's a concern of the longevity of the actuators due to the angle/position I had to mount them. They had sent me some shims for the actuators in case I needed them, and it looks like with some modification, they will relieve the stress on the actuators.
This is the actuator fully extended without moving it. Note: the shaft of the actuator will turn.
This is the shaft turned (which will occur naturally as it extends) to be flush with the tab.
Here's shots of the actuator mount points so you can see how much it has to flex.
Here's pictures of the shims, and after I adjusted them.
Post #4
Just closing the loop on the results of installing the shims...
The trim tabs performed just as good as before, and the shims should definitely relieve stress on the actuators.
This is a pic of the actuator fully extended once the shim was installed.
As you can tell from this pic, as the actuator extends and the shaft turns the mounting holes are inline.
The leaves the actuator head to flex naturally front to back as it was designed rather than also having to flex side to side causing stress. This should prolong the life of the actuator vs. installing w/o the modified shims. Time will tell.
If you're interested/planning to install trim tabs on, I'd recommend giving Bennett a call. Because of some of the changes I've made, I don't feel comfortable recommending a kit to order. They would be better to advise you. Although, I'll offer any help I can. This took a bit of effort to complete, but I'm 100% happy with the results.
Post #4
I didn't really go into the details on the M120s, and I probably should have. The problem is how they mount to the hull and their hinge. Because of the type of hinge, they have to be mounted on a vertical face. They can't be mounted to the vertical face of the step in the transom because it would cause the tabs to angle in, and the fins on the tabs wouldn't be parallel to the strakes in the hull. It would be like and tow-in alignment problem on a car, and could effect handling. The only other option to mount them would be to the very back of the transom which leaves no place to mount the actuator.
I did some cardboard mockups in the beginning based on Thomas' advice and measurements of the M120 tabs. I think you can see what I mean from the pictures below. The tabs from the RIV1212PNC kit have a piano hinge and are mounted to the bottom of the step, not the vertical face. This allowed them to be positioned so they paralleled the strakes in the hull.
. Sounds like your install is rock solid. Now, it's my turn (just need wife's approval 
)
Now the fun really begins...wish me luck!!!
