Trolling Motor Battery Location

[WTScott]

This is plowing some old ground but I am still struggling with the location of the trolling motor batteries. I am going with two dedicated batteries and leaving the two original in the port back locker. The options seem to be at the very front between the two front lockers, in the "middle" in the pocket in front of the console / changing area and in the starboard back under the seat.

All are doable and seem to have some good and bad. The forward locations are easier to wire to the motor but can present some challenges for a four bank. Also, the balanced locations up front don't solve the weight port problem but it seems the rear starboard location does that. The rear starboard leaves all of the storage up front open (though knocks out the area under the seat).

I did do a quick and dirty test after my break in run and it seems that the weight in the rear translates into a little higher top end. This makes sense as downward trim (which we don't have) causes the bow to dig in and reduces speed. I used my wife as movable ballast (in the 140 ish range) and sitting on the seat beside me was around 42, sitting in front of the console was about 39 to 40 and sitting on the front bench cushion was 37 to 38. These are indicated speeds, not GPS, so just an indicator.

Anyway, I see most people leaning towards the front locations but wanted to see if there were any problems with the rear port option. BTW - trolling motor will be starboard mount to offset port (and portly) driver.

Thanks again for all the ideas.

 

[DrGamecock]

The only problem with rear port is the long run of wire you will need to reach the trolling motor. I have my trolling motor and mount and I'm considering putting mine in the forward flat area inside the changing room. This gives the most room. I am also mounting my trolling motor on the starboard side to balance the port batteries.

 

[Earfixr]

Doing it all over i would have offset the batteries and charger in the bow compartment more to the right to offset the heavy Ulterra on the left.

 

[jetfisher]

I placed my batteries in the changing area also. Port side motor mount but have found with the livewell full and the storage the way i have the boat sits pretty level.

 

[WTScott]

Went ahead and mounted the batteries in the pocket in front of the changing area - pretty easy process and got the trolling motor hooked up. No problems except for a DOA Ulterra Riptide due to circuit board / on button being jarred loose from the mounting. Got that back on and secured with an extra piece of duct tape (really elegant solution).

Even with the Ulterra on the starboard I am still weighted to port - especially with big driver on that side. My mount is closer to the middle of the boat which does not give as much off side balance as some of the more side mounts.

Also, seems that I did lose a couple of mph on the top end and the splash line might be a little more towards the bow now - some slight spray on the port back seat. Not significant, but maybe noticeable (or not). Will probably try the back right location for the batteries next and just leave the battery trays up front for tackle boxes / tool box etc or if I decide to move it back. With the two batteries and chargers, that will put some significant weight further back - we will see.

Pictures posted here and in trolling motor thread.

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• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

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• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

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• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

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• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

IMG_5256

• WTScott
• Nov 5, 2016

 

[Earfixr]

I stuck my Ulterra on the port side because if it ever failed in the down position all of the manual over-ride features require major surgery on the right side of the base unit to access. I guess with your puck style bracket you could just pop it up?

 

[WTScott]

@Earfixr - You are correct about the problems at getting the Ulterra back up after a failure. It is a real mess and I am not sure that I would remember all of the steps anyway without a cheat sheet. It is pretty easy with the puck in that you can just pull the pins and lay it on the deck. I am hoping that any problems will be related to running out of batteries but there are a lot of things to go wrong in these units.

That being said, I am really happy with my Ulterra. It is a great unit. I love the auto deploy - just sit up at the helm and push a button and start getting ready. They have really improved the compass heading setting and the anchor feature is really nice - much better than a couple of years ago. I am still learning all of the ins and out but happy so far (except for the loose circuit board).

 

[WTScott]

Moved the two batteries back to the starboard side under the seat and am much happier. The balance is still not 100% versus me on the port side of the helm but getting closer with the batteries, trolling motor and Noco charger. With the live well full I think we may even be a little bit to starboard but pretty balanced.

The hole shot is essentially unchanged but the splash line is moved back by 9 inches to a foot with much less spray on the starboard rear seat. Also, picked up about 1 to 2 mph versus the forward battery position. The handling seems to be pretty well unchanged - maybe a bit more chop on the bow but still very stable. The new location is still forward of the motor and the other batteries so really not at the rear like in an outboard or other boat. Looks like I will be leaving the batteries in the new position.

 

[Brian Filas]

Been a while since I have been on the forum. Your mount turned out great. I am going to be pulling mine off for a slight mod, and plan on making an outline that I can scan and post for folks to take to their machine shop. Just going to round the front corner a bit to get a better fit of the stock cover.

 

[WTScott]

@Brian Filas - Thanks. Having a template / dimensions for the group would be a great service to the forum. As I mentioned, I am long term looking at a SS mount but happy for now AND ready to enjoy instead of working.

Best / Scott

 

[Brian Filas]

I pulled it off this weekend...and forgot to trace it before I dropped it off to be powder coated . It will take two weeks as I opted to work it in with another project he was doing to save $50. I will trace and post to the forum along with a video. It will be paper based (you can print it out and trace it to materials) but will research if I have any friends that can "scan" it in somehow. If anyone knows a good way to do that, let me know.

 

[WTScott]

@Brian Filas - Great idea on powder coating - I should have thought of that versus the stainless steel option. Are you going white? Also, did you buy an extra mount for your motor to use in storage?

Best / Scott

 

[Alan Crawford]

So I used what I saw on this forum and came up with my own design. It works pretty good, but was a little more expensive to have made than I would have liked at $180, plus the 45$ quick disconnect. I have an engineering drawing that I can send to whoever wants, and most good machine shops can import it directly into their CNC software. It is made out of 1/2 in aluminum and it is probably the most structurally sound thing on this boat!

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• Alan Crawford
• Feb 22, 2017

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• Alan Crawford
• Feb 22, 2017

 

[Brian Filas]

@WTScott - I actually went with aluminum instead of stainless as it is 1/3 the weight (and probably strong enough for this application). After years in the Coast Guard you also realize that it is Stain-Less not Stain-free (will still be impacted by elements). Technically, the aluminum didn't need to be treated, but I did it just for looks (yes, I am going white). I also took it back to the machine shop and took off a ton of material that wasnt needed (realized I didnt need to have the entire base plate supported). Left about an inch on either side of the puck. This way, the standard boat cover should fit. I should have it back from paint shop next week and will upload pictures.

 

[WTScott]

One dimension to consider is the overhang of the motor base at the anchor door side. It extends beyond the bottom dimension in most motors and bit me as the door just hung up on the base when opening - Ultera Riptide. A little modification with a heat gun on the plastic and all is well as long as you don't look too closely.

 

[Brian Filas]

Alright, got everything installed back on the boat. Remember, all of this is for a Riptide ST. Not sure how other motor styles might work (would have to test and see). I know the Ulterra is much fatter at the base.

I made a few changes to the V 2.0 bracket. I cut off a significant amount of material. I realized the bracket didn't need to be as big quick release base. It just need to have a little bit of overhang. You can see there is now only about a 1/4 of material on either side of the bracket. Now the factory cover fits much better. I also had it powder coated white. It is aluminum, so this is pretty much for looks. I also painted my bolt heads (yes, I am a neat freak). I have attached a video along with the template. Please note you have to print out the two pages on 11x17 paper (no scaling) and then get the two ends to line up. You should also transfer the design to particle board first, and actually mount your motor to the board to make sure everything fits before you take it to the machine shop to be cut. The hard part is the motor has to be in the "down position" to make sure you get enough clearance between the bow and the shaft. You should also use caution when drilling your holes as the navigation wires do run underneath that spot (go slow and you should be fine). You walso want to use really large washers underneath to spread the stress across a larger area.

All in it cost me $250 for the aluminum and the cutting and another $50 at the powder coater.

Here is a link to the bracket:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxEtpdYrHW43YlhQbzV6VlVVeVE/view?usp=sharing

Remember, this is for entertainment purposes only. I am an amateur at best (and tend to spend a lot of time fixing my screw ups). Proceed at your own risk .

@Georgi Slavov @megalo @Alan Crawford @WTScott

 

[highanddryinco]

Nice job. Well thought out.

 

[WTScott]

@Brian Filas - Thanks for the update AND youtube video - very cool. This is without a doubt the best solution yet to the FSH trolling motor dilemma. You have broken the code and should market them (or get your fabricator to do it). I love the powder coat - very professional. Well done.

 

[Georgi Slavov]

Great job. Thank you Brian .

 

[WTScott]

@Alan Crawford Great idea on putting the electric plug in the anchor locker. You might look at posting your drawing like Brian in a posting. These ideas really point out the value of this forum.


Thanks again / S