Trying to polish the Gelcoat on a 2011

[Nightmare]

We picked up this 2011 Yamaha 242 Limited S a couple of weeks ago. It has incredibly low hours on the motors (11.5hrs).
My best guess is that the original owner left the boat uncovered in the sun for about a decade. The Passenger Side Cup holder is sun-damaged and the gauges are sun-damaged. Bert's Mega Mall apparently replaced the upholstery in 2020. I assume they removed the main hull stickers at that time.
So we have this:

Looks pretty good from a distance, but once it is clean you see the oxidation:

It is nice and shiny above the rub rail and about 1/2 of the main hull is ok.

There are also some 'cracks' in the gelcoat near the stern.


I purchased a Chemical Guys TORQ X buffer/polisher on Amazon and I want to see if I can get the oxidation cleaned up. The local Detail Garage told me to try the Phase5 Fiberglass Polish (Phase 5 Fiberglass Compound and Polish |). And I picked up a Green Heavy Polishing Pad.

If anyone has a different recommendation, let me know.
And I'm not sure what to do about the cracks in the gelcoat.

Thanks

 

[Babin Farms]

Looks like your going to have to wet sand it first and then do a polishing compound. Mine wasn't that bad but here's what I did

https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-official-what-did-you-do-to-your-jet-boat-today-thread.2661/post-428404

https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-official-what-did-you-do-to-your-jet-boat-today-thread.2661/post-428410

https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-official-what-did-you-do-to-your-jet-boat-today-thread.2661/post-428423

 

[TimW451]

@Babin Farms , @suke and a few others have posts with good info. I think I followed @zipper ’s post the most in taking care of oxidation on my 2011. It had some spots similar to yours, but not as bad overall. I used 3M Medium (based on another suggestion here), but probably could’ve used their Heavy. I agree that you should start with wet sanding.

This was my OP after removing the oxidation. https://jetboaters.net/threads/the-...et-boat-today-thread.2661/page-42#post-230335 I used 3m wet/dry 1000 and 2000 grit paper to wet sand. I used up a Saturday to wetsand the orange topsides with 1000 and then most of Sunday with the 2000. I then used Marine 31 products, Marine 31 boat care products, boat detail products, best boat wax Heavy cut oxidation remover, polishing compound and wax applied and buffed out with a variable speed porter cable D/A polisher. I have since added a variable speed rotary polisher with a wool pad that works well to remove oxidation, since the sailboat is so much bigger. This was the kit I initially purchased in 2017. Porter Cable 7424xp Marine 31 Boat Oxidation Removal Kit

View attachment 148256

 

[Ronnie]

A while back I got a quote of $1,200 to detail my 242 LS. Thought it was too high so bought the machine, pads, compound and wax and spent a weekend doing it myself. Whatever you do or use, I recommend that you watch a few how to videos on you tube first. Also ,start / practice in a spot that is hard to see like under the swim deck.

 

[zipper]

Under the graphics the gelcoat will be like new condition. That is a lot of oxidation to remove with just a compound. Wet sanding first will get a better result that will be easier to maintain in the future. @mrcleanr6 might have some insight about sanding with power tools instead of wet sanding by hand for two days.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Yes an orbital sander with a soft interface pad attached and some 3m 1000grit finishing film discs would make quick work of that. 1000g then heavy compound with a wool pad then polish with a soft foam pad. You could have that whole hull looking like it came off the showroom floor in about 1 day

the cracks in the gel would need to be repaired after you get the hull looking good. Would be fixed like any other fiberglass repair. If you know how to tackle that then great. Otherwise youll need a pro to take care of it

 

[Nightmare]

I obviously don’t want to damage the gel coat. So I was going to start with the least abrasive products first. Is there any harm in trying the Fiberglass Compound and Polish first?
I read somewhere that the 1000g wet sand doesn’t damage gel coat? It looks like I can buy 1000g 5” discs that will fit the TorqX sander/polisher.
It does looks it’s absolute worst in the dusk photo from yesterday. This is the boat in the light with the brand new cover

 

[Joshua Miller]

You’ll be fine wet sanding. You could even go 1500 or 2000 grit if you’re worried about the gel coat. I bought 2” padded sanding discs off of Amazon awhile back that had everything from 400-5000grit. Came with a chuck that fit my cordless drill.

 

[mrcleanr6]

ok you need to make sure the sandpaper is finishing film. you cant use any old 1000 grit. its not the same. finishing film has a shallow cut that buffs easier and the discs also dont load up like regular paper. for 5" what you need is 3m part# 30569. you must put a soft interface pad on the sander as well. for sanding steps, there is no need to go finer than 1000 on gel. you can but its a waste of time to go beyond that. paint is a totally different story.

TGR 5" Soft Density Interface Pad - Hook and Loop | eBay

Hook on one side and Loop on the other side. Allows the user to follow contours and get in closer to most edges. Constructed of a soft durable foam.

www.ebay.com

you can certainly try to compound it first but i can tell just by looking at the pictures that the gel is totally dead. you need to get that outer layer off. without sanding you can make it look better but it will never be great.

 

[TimW451]

Here is my post showing the result without sanding and only using medium compound. I plan to do some wet sanding this fall. @mrcleanr6 Thanks for the tips on using the orbital to wet sand, will make me not short cut it again by trying to just use heavy compound!

I also found this 3M brochure helpful.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/1285513O/160806467-gelcoatbrochure.pdf

I removed the stickers on the hull, and remove the adhesive with an eraser wheel. I then compounded the hull. Needed it badly. Not bad for my first time. I used the 3M One Step medium compound + wax. My technique improved over time, but I think I’d need to sand or use the heavy grade product to get it any better.

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[Nightmare]

This is a neverending list of parts.
No one has the 5" Finishing Film, so I ordered 6" Film Discs - BTW Napa sells individual discs. I don't know how many I need, but I hope I don't need 50
Now I need a 6" Backing Plate and a 6" Interface pad
Probably need a 6" Wool Pad

 

[mrcleanr6]

Just an fyi, Finishing film discs are used dry. You had better just get a box of 50. I can see you using atleast 1/2 a box but its impossible to tell until you start. By the time you buy enough of them individually it will end up costing more than a box. You can get backup and interface pads on amazon or ebay if you dont have a local automotive paint supplier.

 

[Nightmare]

So I chickened out on the 3M P1000 sanding. I've never done this kind of work before and I didn't want to destroy anything.
It looks like someone tried to clean up the oxidation in the past. I don't know if they used a brillo pad or what.
Here are some before and after photos. I wish I had paid more attention to get the exact same angles. I'd say it is about 50% better with one pass.
I used the Orange Hex Pad

Orange Hex-Logic Quantum Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad | Chemical Guys

Find professional auto detail supplies for high quality car care like Orange Hex-Logic Quantum Medium-Heavy Cutting Pad at Chemical Guys!

www.chemicalguys.com

with the Phase 5 Fiberglass compound

Chemical Guys Phase 5 Fiberglass Compound and Polish | Chemical Guys

Phase 5 Fiberglass Polish is an all-in-one scratch and swirl remover that cuts away deep swirl marks and scratches, then restores a mirror shine to fiberglass and gel coat finishes in one step.

www.chemicalguys.com

After the first pass, the boat looked MUCH better. But after wiping off the residue and letting it dry the haze became more visible again. I thought that the wax might fix that, but it didn't fully go away. 1 section, in particular, looks noticeably better, I don't know if I pushed a little harder or what?

I used Meguiar's Cleaner Wax for Gel Coat

Search Results | Meguiar's

www.meguiars.com

 

[zipper]

You need more oxidation removed. You can do it. If you don't feel comfortable sanding with power tools, try wet sanding a small 2'x2' area with 1000 grit then polish and wax. If you get the results you are looking for, move to the next 2x2 area, overlapping as you move along. Always, wetsand in a circular motion.

After removing graphics in 2017.



After sanding with 1000grit and going over it with 2000 before polishing.



You can see the shine coming back and the shadowing (oxidation) gone.





Then after polishing and wax.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Just remember you cant cover or fix anything with wax. You need to get the gel looking perfect without putting anything on it. If you cover anything with wax it will look better but its just temp. The gel will always go back to looking crappy unless its corrected

 

[Nightmare]

I took a shot at the bottom half of the boat. It came out a little better than the top, but I can still see the water spots and oxidation.
This will have to do for this trip. Maybe I'll give it another shot when we get back.

 

[mrcleanr6]

Your orange foam pad isnt going to be good for that amount of correction. I have orange hex pads here at my shop and they are a really light cut. You need a wool cutting pad and a black foam for polishing. You will need a coarse cutting compound to go along with the wool. I am not familiar with the brand you bought.

 

[Heizen]

I've know of the Star Brite brand for many years and was surprised when a friend of mine recommended this product to me and said that it would make the gel coat on my boat "super shiny". With so many new products out there that claim to be great, this product actually exceeded my expectations. I applied with a da polisher and it was very easy to remove. There is a slight film which is left behind that I believe is the PTEF and helps to make the surface look "wet".

 

[zipper]

I've know of the Star Brite brand for many years and was surprised when a friend of mine recommended this product to me and said that it would make the gel coat on my boat "super shiny". With so many new products out there that claim to be great, this product actually exceeded my expectations. I applied with a da polisher and it was very easy to remove. There is a slight film which is left behind that I believe is the PTEF and helps to make the surface look "wet".

What kind of boat is/was this? Do you have any before and after pictures. I ask because your profile states "boatless". I have asked other questions and tried to engage you in conversation on some of your other posts recently and none have ever been answered. So now, I must ask another question. Are you a Bot?

 

[Heizen]

What kind of boat is/was this? Do you have any before and after pictures. I ask because your profile states "boatless". I have asked other questions and tried to engage you in conversation on some of your other posts recently and none have ever been answered. So now, I must ask another question. Are you a Bot?

I use Star Brite to use on my 2014 Brunswick 28" Challenger Fire/Rescue Boat. My boat remains in the water for up to 9 months a year, in extremely harsh conditions.