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Upgrade dilemma AR190 speakers

212s

Jetboaters Captain
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I have 45KM654 Kickers in my SX190 and they are an improvement over the stock "ASA" speakers. However, they have a boosted high bass - making them kind of boomy, and are treble heavy, requiring low(er) bass and midrange boost to sound more balanced. They were an easy swap with no changes to holes required.
I'm picky about my sound quality and I've always found Kickers to be boomy and shrill too. But lots of people seem to like that exaggerated sound you find in a loud club. Same goes for those guys driving around with a pair of 12" subs trying to blow out their car's rear window - sounds like crap to me, but everyone has their preferences.
😜
I'm on the fence about installing a small four-channel marine amp to get the most out of those speakers. It's said to help a lot, and I think it'd permit more aggressive EQ at least. I don't usually play the stereo at speed - just too much noise in total, but just while putting along or anchored.
Any decent amp will push the speakers better than the head unit (ratings are not full range so they're nowhere near real 50w/ch). You can find a decent 4-ch 45w amp for about $150...I think the Kenwood 400w marine amp you can find on Amazon is an OK amp for your needs. It won't be as loud as a more powerful/expensive amp, but it should get the Kickers pumping much better than the stock head unit which sounds like what you want?
 

dbfl

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In yours/anyone's opinion - is there a drop-in (gauge) head unit that can by itself drive those speakers? Also count me kind of annoyed how the display of the stock Jensen gets fogged almost every time out.

We don't use the stereo *that* much but I want to do better and at least have the option to be able to hear it at speed. Should I just get a new, better head unit, add an amp to the existing one, or both? What'll it take - minimum, to drive those Kickers well?
 

212s

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No head unit is going to power the speakers properly because they're nowhere near the power of even a small dedicated amp. Here's why - Amplifier manufacturers do not need to follow specific guidelines for power rating tests, they can test and rate it however they want.

Head unit power ratings are usually based on some sort of maximum output with the easiest load which is 1-ch driven at 1kHz until it hits 5% or more distortion which is so bad it sounds like crap. So when a head unit is rated 200w, what that means is 4x that 1-ch max rating whether the radio can realistically do it or not. But to hear music, a radio or amp needs to reproduce all of the sound from 20-20,000Hz, and that output requires 3-5x the power to push all that sound out. In order to do that, physics plays a role - output circuits need stable power and current from a well regulated transformer and capacitor supply which costs a few bucks to make. Cheap IC circuits don't have much in the way of power supply regulation so they run out of sustained power quickly and distort. In reality, a decent head unit can push about 5 watts of clean full range power to all four speakers before it starts to run out of current and voltage peaks clipping the audio waveform which is heard as distortion. The woofer cones of speakers need several watts of power with good AC voltage waveforms just to get them to move some air for bass output, which is why adding a 25w or bigger decent amp makes such a big improvement to the sound output. Not just volume, but clean full range (as close as the speaker can manage) sound that you can hear properly. Good speakers are also important because if they can't do anything properly with the signal, they will sound dull and flat like the cheap paper cone speakers in a low end car.

A good amp will have proper ratings which would look something like this:

50w/ch x 4 at 4 ohms from 20-20,00Hz with less than 1% distortion.
A head unit under the same requirements would be rated about 5w/ch.

Good amps will be rated with the specs above so you can compare them. Cheap amps just claim wild numbers they can't hope to achieve but it sounds good to unsuspecting customers. The really good stuff will be rated well, but perform above their ratings, but they cost more because they're well made with quality components that perform above minimum spec.

So to answer your question @dbfl look for an amp rated about 50w/ch in the $200+ price range and you should probably be ok for basic needs. Ignore similarly priced amps claiming 100w/ch because they're usually IC driven junk that runs out of steam when playing sustained music and will likely fail when pushed hard overheating an IC and blowing the amp = wasted money (but if you take it easy and don't push it, it'll do ok). Another way to know if it's a decent amp, is to look at the fuse rating - 1amp for every 10w of power is a rough guide. So a 400w amp will require a 40amp fuse...if it has a 10 or 15 then it's over-rated and can't sustain the power ratings claims.
 

ncinthenext3

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The Kickers are definitely an improvement over the stock MA speakers. Right now they are powered by the stock Clarion head unit. I plan to add an amp when I get the tower speakers and sub.
Ordered those same Kickers last night! So, ready for spark plug change, oil change, install new speakers and depth/fish finder. Then, we'll see about a 2nd battery (but I'm not certain I have that level of skill.) With the 2nd battery, it would be time to consider adding an amp.
 

CaTiRo

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Nice. Let us know how the install goes.

What's a good location for a free air sub on the 19ft boats? I was thinking under the bench seat.
 
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