Warranty/Durability - Installing shut-off valve on Cooling Hose

[MrMoose]

Based on past posts, it is obvious that many members have installed shut-off valves in their cooling lines in order to freshwater flush and/or tow at greater than minimal wake speeds.
I am concerned that doing this might compromise the warranty on a newer boat; so, feel free to chime in on this if you've installed this valve while your boat was still under warranty... or better yet, if you've had a Yamaha dealer install this while the boat was still under warranty.
Also, installing any valve into any hose will create a restriction (pressure drop) that will reduce the flow rate even when the valve is fully open; this is unavoidable. This fact brings me to an obvious concern that this flow restriction may expose the cooling system to problems that might not otherwise occur, such as making the system more susceptible to clogging/build-up over time.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I shared some of those concerns so I went with full flow ball valves. When they are open there is no compromise of volume. I did not like the valve kits that other vendors are offering as the flow is reduced quite a bit. I bough 3/4" PEX ball valves which are actually 5/8" barbs on each end so the only mechanical connection will be the hose and clamps.

 

[MrMoose]

I shared some of those concerns so I went with full flow ball valves. When they are open there is no compromise of volume. I did not like the valve kits that other vendors are offering as the flow is reduced quite a bit. I bough 3/4" PEX ball valves which are actually 5/8" barbs on each end so the only mechanical connection will be the hose and clamps.

@Englewoodcowboy , are you saying that the type of valve that you used does not reduce the cross-sectional area of the flow compared to the original hose's cross-section? I figured that using any barbed connection for the splice would reduce the cross-sectional area of the flow. I'm very interested. Thanks!

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

@MrMoose if it does it is very minute, nothing more than a bend in the hose would create if any. The other valves etc. reduced it significantly. I have not installed mine yet and was looking to do it soon so I will have some photo details when I do.

 

[OperationROL]

@Englewoodcowboy , are you saying that the type of valve that you used does not reduce the cross-sectional area of the flow compared to the original hose's cross-section? I figured that using any barbed connection for the splice would reduce the cross-sectional area of the flow. I'm very interested. Thanks!

I don't know that it is enough to worry about but you are correct. The surface area of the barbs themselves present resistance to the normal flow. It (full flow ball valves) does not reduce the flow as much. The only way to truly get the same flow would be to have the valve connect "over" the existing hose, as opposed to "into" the existing hose or increase the hose size on either side of the valve, large enough that the barbed inlet is the same size as the previous hose. You would have to get an increaser connection opposite the valve connection. Of course, changing the hose size will reduce the pressure, so you may have a different issue. Again, though, I don't know if it is enough to concern yourself with.

 

[PJ73]

Hey! Look at me, I used the "search bar" to find what I needed... LOL!
Seriously though, I just red another report of a guy flooding an engine as he "limped" back to the dock. Don't think Yama will cover the cost. So, being the absolute nutcase I am, thinking this isn't out of the realm of possibilities with my ass, I would like to revive this little discussion from 4 years ago. I would like to install shutoff valves to ensure I don't smoke an engine if one dies on the water. I have read that some people just carry a clamp for the hose in case of this happening, I don't like the thought of clamping a rubber hose.
First, have we found out if the ball/valve diameter will restrict flow?
Second, Have we found a better solution?
Third, Which hoses do I need to look at to add the shut off valves? (pic please) I'm going to assume that its the same on the 240/242 as the 212s?

 

[rkim808]

Following

 

[zipper]

Here is a thread https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-add-a-shutoff-valve-to-your-boats-cooling-system.411/ and here is another. https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-tow-valves-2004-sx230-questions.2314/
and this video.

I know it's an MR-1...1.8L should be similar.

 

[AJack]

I carry two clamps. I wouldn't use the clamps for regular maintenance, but if an engine dies and I'm limping on one engine, I'd rather destroy a hose with the clamp than an engine.

Hey! Look at me, I used the "search bar" to find what I needed... LOL!
Seriously though, I just red another report of a guy flooding an engine as he "limped" back to the dock. Don't think Yama will cover the cost. So, being the absolute nutcase I am, thinking this isn't out of the realm of possibilities with my ass, I would like to revive this little discussion from 4 years ago. I would like to install shutoff valves to ensure I don't smoke an engine if one dies on the water. I have read that some people just carry a clamp for the hose in case of this happening, I don't like the thought of clamping a rubber hose.
First, have we found out if the ball/valve diameter will restrict flow?
Second, Have we found a better solution?
Third, Which hoses do I need to look at to add the shut off valves? (pic please) I'm going to assume that its the same on the 240/242 as the 212s?

 

[PJ73]

Here is a thread https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-add-a-shutoff-valve-to-your-boats-cooling-system.411/ and here is another. https://jetboaters.net/threads/adding-tow-valves-2004-sx230-questions.2314/
and this video.

I know it's an MR-1...1.8L should be similar.

Thank ya sir for the link to the thread. I was close, just needed the push.