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What is this and how to get rid of it?

Win MIller

Well-Known Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
9
Points
62
Location
Decatur, AL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
This stuff (see pics) is on both my jet units. I think its mineral deposits but not sure. Its a chalky white substance with some of it coming off when you rub it by hand but there is still a white residue that doesn't come off. So far I've only tried Bar Keepers Friend spray and it doesn't seem to get the white residue off. I've looked at CLR but it says don't use on aluminum. Since this was a 2016 demo boat I think it sat in the lake a lot this summer without being used too much, it only has 36hrs on it. Any help on how to get rid of the white stuff would be greatly appreciated.

ThanksIMG_20170128_161509.jpg IMG_20170128_161516.jpg
 
Is it on plastic too, or just the aluminum? Mine had spotty white deposits which were corrosion. My boat was much older when I finally decided to clean it up as best I could. Here is a thread for reference https://jetboaters.net/threads/diy-steering-cable-replacement-pump-pulls-cone-lube-check.8059/
Blasting an reanodizing worked great. I was not sure I could anodize the pump housing with the steel ring in place, so I painted; but the exhaust got the better of my paint job. Scrubbing the areas lightly (don't trash the anodized finish) and frequent coating with Boeshield will do wonders.
 
No, its not on the plastic just the aluminum.
 
Use Yammi's silicone lube/protect or Yama Shield and see if that works.
 
I get something similar after my boat sits in salt water for a few weeks. Pressure washing seems to help but the most effective method of removal seems to be usage in a very clean lake.
 
Add zinc anodes to deal with galvanic corrosion if you are in salt water, also coat the areas with white lithium spray grease. it leaves a nice film.

I also coat my engine with it
The link would not work but here is some of the info from the web page

Liquid Wrench White Lithium Grease with Cerflon cuts friction to extend life. Sprays on easily - sets up as a lubricating grease that will not melt, run, wash off or freeze. Inhibits corrosion. For auto, home, marine, RV, farm and shop.

Product Features:
  • Creates long-lasting, heavy-duty lubrication
  • Rust inhibitor
  • Does not freeze, melt or run
  • Use on trailer hitches, lawn tractors, boats and large outdoor hinges
 
Add zinc anodes to deal with galvanic corrosion if you are in salt water, also coat the areas with white lithium spray grease. it leaves a nice film.

I also coat my engine with it
The link would not work but here is some of the info from the web page

Liquid Wrench White Lithium Grease with Cerflon cuts friction to extend life. Sprays on easily - sets up as a lubricating grease that will not melt, run, wash off or freeze. Inhibits corrosion. For auto, home, marine, RV, farm and shop.

Product Features:
  • Creates long-lasting, heavy-duty lubrication
  • Rust inhibitor
  • Does not freeze, melt or run
  • Use on trailer hitches, lawn tractors, boats and large outdoor hinges
I know my boat has anodes but do you or anyone recall if they are the zinc ones for saltwater?
And where do i buy the proper ones to fit out bolt patterns?
 
factory uses magnesium not zinc
 
if you run in salt water add some zinc also
 
This stuff (see pics) is on both my jet units. I think its mineral deposits but not sure. Its a chalky white substance with some of it coming off when you rub it by hand but there is still a white residue that doesn't come off. So far I've only tried Bar Keepers Friend spray and it doesn't seem to get the white residue off. I've looked at CLR but it says don't use on aluminum. Since this was a 2016 demo boat I think it sat in the lake a lot this summer without being used too much, it only has 36hrs on it. Any help on how to get rid of the white stuff would be greatly appreciated.

ThanksView attachment 50441 View attachment 50442
Grind and paint is the only way!!!
 
Had some corrosion like this the first year I had my boat. Rented a covered slip on the river for the summer, so my ride was rarely pulled out for three months. I had some on the reverse bucket and the jet mount. A couple spots were barnacle size. I chalked it up to stray voltage as there was shore power in use by several other boats. I pulled the pieces, wire wheeled, sanded and scotch brite buffed to bare metal over the winter. I primed and painted with some quality marine paint in a rattle can. I noted that the anodes attached from the factory had paint between the contact surface which clearly defeated the conductivity of the sacrificial process. I buffed up the anodes a bit, they had not sacrificed much at all. I left a good clean bare metal contact surface between anode and pieces where they attached. All the work helped a great deal as I didn't have a repeat of the issue. Check your anode contact surfaces if they are on a painted surface, good contact is a must. Hope this helps.
 
if you run in salt water add some zinc also
Jeff - would zinc anodes also work on trailers? For those of us who will (reluctantly) dip those Shorland'r painted fresh water trailers into salt on the way to Bimini, would it help to attach zinc anodes somewhere?

--
 
Absolutely, I have made many posts in the past about placing a zinc anode on the trailer near the tail lights however most were on the old site
 
Absolutely, I have made many posts in the past about placing a zinc anode on the trailer near the tail lights however most were on the old site
Found those, really quite a few posts - not sure how I missed it. For a mixed fresh/salt water use - would you just add an extra zinc anode - on the other side of the pumps? Do you have a favorite brand?
Sorry for multiple questions, and thank you for the tips!
I like the idea, a lot.

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I've had those occasionally on my 232. I never thought to check under the zinc contacts to see if that surface is painted...dind't even look when I changed them a couple of seasons ago. You can sure bet that's on my list for the spring...and if there's paint under where those anodes attach, you can bet they will get hit with a quick buffing wheel of the Dremel...
 
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