What Would You Do?

[Ilmmct]

I was trying to upload a video of the wheel turning, but was on mobile and it did not work. All ... got the boat launched and commenced the holiday boating.

Thanks for distilling confidence and the information on this thread and the many others I used to lube and get to a copacetic place today.

Steering is tight ... not CrossFit workout tight, but tight as a frogs ass for sure. Steering moves safely and did free up some in the water.

I’ve been wanting to use the dual thrust benefit of these boats more for handling ... now I guess I have my chance!

 

[Bruce]

I’ve been wanting to use the dual thrust benefit of these boats more for handling ... now I guess I have my chance!

Wheel straight, one in forward, the other in reverse and she will spin in place.

 

[Ilmmct]

All just wrapping me head around the Steering Cable work that will commence next week. Some questions ... in reviewing the service manual and the various threads on the this subject ... DIY Luber, Broken Steering Cable FAQ etc.:

-why have some posts discussed taking the floor above the fuel tanks ... I don't see this step in the service manual? Not trying to be lazy, but my experience with my former SX230 and after 5-years in salt ... those bolts are very tough to take off.
-If I go the "coupling nut" route (to tie "old" and "new" cables together) ... can I push the "new" cable in from the Helm-end out through to Transom-end?

I am doing this from my lift/dock at low tide ... one guy in the boat (pushing from Helm) and me in the water (pulling from Transom).

Parts/tools needed and ordered:

-Steering Cable Assembly: F0R-U1470-00-00 (using the FAQ and the Teleflex equivalents, sourced on Amazon for $122 w/Prime)
-Coupling Nut: size 5/16-24 (bought 2 just in case)
-Impact Bit needed to Remove Floor above Gas Tank: Square #4 - 6”
-PB Blaster to remove silicon (or 5200 not sure yet net to have a look under the clean-out tray)
-Pass-Thru Ratchet & Socket Set (need 7/8” pass-thru socket to remove the steering cable nut on the outside of the transom)

 

[Bruce]

I believe you will find that the cables are secured by cable ties that will need to be removed.

I also believe that the fuel tank hatch bolt issue only exists in 230s and perhaps similar models but that your 240 fuel tank hatch will be easier to remove.

 

[Beachbummer]

On my sx230 the cables fed through. See how much it moves before you pull the floor would be my suggestion. If you have to do be it, but if you can get away with feeding them through, all the better.