White Navigation Light Problems

[Eric Popper]

So my white navigation light is out. I thought it was the bulb, so I used the opportunity to purchase an LED light replacement pole.

The new one doesn't work either, so obviously the problem is either the wiring or the switch. I checked the wiring in the helm compartment and near the pole attachment and couldn't find anything obvious.

Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,

Eric

 

[jetboater4life]

Did you probe for 12v right at the socket? Are you you using a completely new pole and bulb or just the same pole with a new bulb?

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Check for voltage at the socket.
Shine a light into the socket and make sure that the pins are not folded over or snapped off.

 

[sysinu]

Everyone is pointing to the same thing. Check the electrical. If you have a voltmeter, check to see if you get 12VDC across the poles without the light in place when the switch is on. If not, then it's electrical issue (fuse, breaker, etc). If you get 12VDC while the switch is on, then whatever you are sticking in that hole is either not making contact or is burnt out.

 

[Eric Popper]

Thanks. Here is what I did. I bought a new LED pole, it didn't fix the problem. I "spread" the contacts a bit more open so they would be more effective. I checked the wires at the switch and the plug (through the hatch on the side of the engine compartment.

Unfortunately, I didn't have a voltmeter.

Is there a failure point with the switch where that diode is?

Thanks,

Eric

 

[jetboater4life]

Hard to say without voltmeter readings. My guess is that the new pole isn't making contact with the pins inside the socket. Maybe it's not going far enough down to contact. Adding some dielectric grease would help. Eventually I plan on adding a tower light. You can buy battery operated tower lights to avoid running wires.

 

[Bruce]

An inexpensive multimeter or a test light would allow you to test for voltage at each potential point of failure. You could even use a LED touching the legs to the wires and contact points. Just remember that LEDs are diodes so they only light up one direction.

There is a breaker under the light switch. Have you tried pressing (resetting) it?

 

[Eric Popper]

Next time I am out, I will take a voltmeter.

I did try the CB reset and it didn't help. The red/green nav-lights do work so I know this isn't the problem.

The two contact probes in the plug are split (this is normal) and appeared to be "compressed" closed, which could reduce or eliminate contact with the light pole connection. I used a knife blade to "open" the contacts. Obviously, I can't see what's going on when the pole is inserted but I am certain the contacts are going into the socket holes on the pole.

My guess is that there is no power to the plug. This is either a wiring problem or a problem at the switch. The parts of the wiring that I can see appears to be OK, but it enters the main harness wire wrap and disappears into the starboard wall.

One easy fix that I may try is to replace the socket and switch, but they are about $80 to replace...

Eric

 

[Bruce]

I remember a spade connector below the socket. I believe it is outside of the plywood in the engine compartment. You may be able to access it by removing the socket and pulling the wire up.

But first, you really need a tool to identify where you do and do not have voltage.

 

[itsdgm]

The switch is a three way switch if memory serves me correctly. I'm not sure which of the three positions powers the anchor light. I believe that pressing it up is nav lights, middle is off and down is anchor lights. But I could be off on that. Are you trying to power the light while in all three positions?

 

[Eric Popper]

The switch is 3 way. The middle is all off. I don't remember specifically which way (up or down) does what, but one directions is all 3 lights (red. green. white) and one direction is white only.

Eric

 

[Bruce]

Up and down both turn on the stern light. I believe that up turns on stern and bow lights and down is stern only.

 

[Gym]

Harbor Freight Tools has a volt meter for $6. Or you can wait a week or two and get it for free with another purchase. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html

 

[Speedling]

I had an issue with my starboard light not working (ss has seperate lights) and it ended up being the connector itself where the light plugs in. I simply eliminated the connector and the problem is gone. seemed it corroded pretty badly. Used to be a salt water boat. I installed LED side mounts anyways.
They look cool.

 

[itsdgm]

I wonder if the bulb is in backwards. The LEDs that I've used in the past had to be wired exactly positive to positive and neg to neg. maybe the wiring on the new pole is different, or simply try reversing the bulb. Also, double check that the terminals on the new pole line up with your boats receptacle.

 

[Speedling]

That's a good point about the LED polarity. My cupholders were sensitive to this as well. Certainly check it out.

 

[JC6275]

Since it wasn't working before , hence the purchase of a new one and you obviously have power at the switch, it sounds like it is narrowed down to the wiring to the socket. It may be just the connection under the socket itself, a loose wire or a broken wire there. As stated above I woukd check the voltage at the socket, if no power there , pull the socket and check for power on the wires running to it. If you still have no power and the connection is good at the switch swap the wires for the bow lights that you know work to the stern light side of the switch to ensure the switch is working properly. If it is I would think new wires to the stern socket from the switch would be easier than trying to trace the old ones in the harness.