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Winterizing

A couple more questions:
1. Pull carpets and seating and keep them inside for winter?
2. What should you cover it with if you don't go the shrink-wrap route?

That's what I did. My boat is stored outside and it can get pretty cold where I live in the winter. I felt the cushions and carpet would be better in the house with a constant temperature. I did not remove the captain's chair though.
 
If you have snap carpeting, why not?
I have used a tarp before and tied it down around the boat. However, shrink wrap is better. A good wrapper will add meshed vents & wrap it tight so no critters will get it. Add some moisture absorbent, too.
 
Looks like it has TWO models under the 2013 212X

1. XAT1800A-M
2. XAT1800B-M

Not sure which one mine would be, and that there are two 212X models ??
Usually the difference in model numbers is just the graphics. But it may also be related to the California boats.
 
Usually the difference in model numbers is just the graphics. But it may also be related to the California boats.

Pop the engine hatch and look for the sticker on the lower port side. It will have the model number.
 
Looks why I have the M Model. Not sure why but that is what it says by the engine.
 
To add : use stabilizer in you last tank of fuel on the water before winterizing as a minimum. :being in N.J., I highly recommend spraying engine and hose fittings with corrosion X or silicone spray.
I use the CRC 6-56....that should be good
 
So one little question Do I add the Sta-Bil "AND" RING FREE to the tank for winterization ? I think I have everything I need pending the answer to this question.
 
Definitely add "marine" sta-bil before closing up for the winter, and you can add ring free as well. I don't use ring free but some of the members swear by it. Just be sure to run the engines and allow the stabil to make it's way through the fuel system.
 
Just gonna add one more question in here, does anyone do anything with their ballast systems or bilge pumps? I'll be hitting a hard freeze and then some just don't want to crack both the pumps/piping. I know the safe bet is to run RV antifreeze through them, but is there actually a need? Or does just running air through them clear any water that might expand.
 
I fill my shower hose with RV antifreeze because I got tired of replacing the plastic fittings.
 
Just gonna add one more question in here, does anyone do anything with their ballast systems or bilge pumps? I'll be hitting a hard freeze and then some just don't want to crack both the pumps/piping. I know the safe bet is to run RV antifreeze through them, but is there actually a need? Or does just running air through them clear any water that might expand.

I'd do the RV anti-freeze thing for a ballast system. It's hard to get all the water out of something like that. Best to just leave anti-freeze in and you know you're good.
 
Cant hurt to try. Then check after a hard rain or snow. If it works ok, then why not !!! If not, then grab another one.
 
Just for arguments sake, what would happen if I used my mooring cover over the winter?

It will wear out faster. 303 it in the fall and that should lessen the snow weight by not allowing it to stick as much.
 
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