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Winterizing

Oh yeah....noodle the sh*t out of the boat...it will keep your cover from faster wear and tear from the elements
 
Just for arguments sake, what would happen if I used my mooring cover over the winter?

depends on if you have the same winter this year as you did last year ;-).

Generally speaking the cover is fine, but snow build up will cause water to stand against the cover as the snow becomes an insulator and your boat will warm up causing the snow against the cover to melt and either pool or turn into ice and then cause problems. So always nock off the snow from your cover.

I think the bigger question is what would happen to your boat if you left it out in the elements over the winter. And the winter is pretty brutal on your tower (board racks get messy, speakers break, etc) and your trailer (bearings, brakes, etc). So if you're not putting your boat into covered storage, then you need to keep in mind that it's not just the cover that's going to take a beating :-)
 
The fact that I am looking at a Winterizing thread is depressing me. Lake levels are getting low as they draw down for the winter. . . . Next weekend will likely be my last.

I really gotta the my wife to let me move to warmer weather.
 
@0627Devildog ... was thinking the same thing just this weekend. After Labor Day it usually slows way down on our lakes but still doesn't mean we can't go for a ride once in awhile. We had a great summer just hate to see it end. I swear I think that time goes by faster each year and I have no idea how to slow it down. How did the dock work out for you this year?
 
@0627Devildog ... was thinking the same thing just this weekend. After Labor Day it usually slows way down on our lakes but still doesn't mean we can't go for a ride once in awhile. We had a great summer just hate to see it end. I swear I think that time goes by faster each year and I have no idea how to slow it down. How did the dock work out for you this year?

Flawlessly, thanks for asking. We lost about 7 vertical feet from the season high, and I only had to make one minor adjustment.
 
Flawlessly, thanks for asking. We lost about 7 vertical feet from the season high, and I only had to make one minor adjustment.

That's great! From what I remember from the pictures you posted, you did a great job on this dock and only having to make one adjustment is great. If Table Rock goes down a foot I gain about 6 feet of shoreline. So I have to keep a close eye on mine and move in or out accordingly. Really glad it worked out for you.
 
That's great! From what I remember from the pictures you posted, you did a great job on this dock and only having to make one adjustment is great. If Table Rock goes down a foot I gain about 6 feet of shoreline. So I have to keep a close eye on mine and move in or out accordingly. Really glad it worked out for you.

7 Vertical feet added about 21' of shoreline for me. . . . .Would have been more had my shoreline not been so steep.
 
Just to make sure I have everything when I head to the lake to change the oil, what type of oil filter wrench do you all suggest? Or from your experience, will any auto one do just fine?
 
Just to make sure I have everything when I head to the lake to change the oil, what type of oil filter wrench do you all suggest? Or from your experience, will any auto one do just fine?

I use a strap wrench but have been meaning to upgrade to a proper filter wrench. Make sure to bring lots of paper towels or oil catching rags and pull the carpet there where you will be working. It is amazing how oil gets all over.
 
I use a strap wrench but have been meaning to upgrade to a proper filter wrench. Make sure to bring lots of paper towels or oil catching rags and pull the carpet there where you will be working. It is amazing how oil gets all over.
Thanks @davel501 just got the oil change kits in the mail. Thank you for the links earlier in the thread. Now I just have to try to put off doing it for as long as possible! I will look into the filter wrench.
 
My system for maintenance takes about 30 min per side and works like this:

1. Warm up engine on hose. Engine on before hose on, hose off before engine off. Should take 5 minutes or so.
2. Check gap on new plugs while engine is warming.
3. Remove plastic cover from engine while engine is warming.
4. Remove keys and put somewhere safe, like dipstick pipe of engine you are working on.
5. Remove dipstick and place vacuum hose down tube.
6. Give pump 10-15 pumps and let it work.
7. Remove bolts from plug boots, place in cup holder nearest.
8. Disconnect plugs and flap boot over to side.
9. Change plugs 1 at a time. Use the T-handle in the tool kit. You will feel the gasket crush - the plug with turn freely until the gasket then resist slightly then stop. Turn gently through the resistance but do not push through the stop.
10. Reattach the boot to the plug after each one is done to keep track of where you are. Bolt down and tighten as you go.
11. Once plugs are done give the vacuum a few more pumps.
12. Add grease to bearing at rear of engine. On mine there is a hose that I fill until it is firm, not sure on newer boats. Do this with plastic cover off to avoid cracking the cover.
13. Make sure that all oil is extracted from engine.
14. Remove oil filter and vacuum it out too.
15. Fill (1/2-2/3) new oil filter with oil and run finger around gasket to spread oil on it as well.
16. Replace filter.
17. Fill oil (should take 3.3 quarts, 3.2 for engine, .1 for filter).
18. Check oil level on dipstick - should be a little high but not crazy.
19. Run engine, check for warnings and leaks at filter.
20. Check oil level again and it should be perfect.

When done with both engines clean up all the spilt oil and clean the bilge then spray down engines with rust inhibitor and reinstall plastic covers.
 
Last edited:
17. Fill oil (should take 3.2 quarts said:
What about everything I have read that states to put back in EXACTLY what you take out? Or is this more important on the MR-1 Engines and not so much the 1.8's?
 

That is the MR-1 engines more than anything but you could use the advice for the newer engines as well. I opt to put the motor right back to where it should be and this is the method recommended by the service manual. There are lots of arguments for or against but my thought is that if I do not get roughly 3.2 quarts between the vacuum and spillage then something is wrong. If you suck a quart out of your engine and just put a quart back in you could be courting disaster the same as if you only removed a quart and added 3+ quarts. It is not an exact science with the vacuums so you look for 3 quarts then another 1/4-1/3 in the reservoir.

The important part is that at the end of the day the level should read between fill and full or right at full warm on the 1.8s.

Good thing I looked it up to answer your question. 3.2 quarts is without changing the filter, 3.3 is with changing the oil filter. Sorry about that! Edited above.
 
A couple questions..do I definitely need a wrench or can I hand turn the filters...also ppl say to wax the boat for the winter....any recommendations on some wax ??
 
I have 5 batteries. I have to take all the f-ers out? ugh! I'm in rural IL where temps get to below zero so I'm assuming that's a YES. My boat will be in a 48ft storage garage.........soon........like in two weeks...... :(
 
A couple questions..do I definitely need a wrench or can I hand turn the filters...also ppl say to wax the boat for the winter....any recommendations on some wax ??

Depends on how strong your hands are. I don't know anyone that can do it without a wrench.
 
I have 5 batteries. I have to take all the f-ers out? ugh! I'm in rural IL where temps get to below zero so I'm assuming that's a YES. My boat will be in a 48ft storage garage.........soon........like in two weeks...... :(

I never take my batteries out. I disconnect them and charge them in the fall then top them off in the spring and reconnect them.
 
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