Not another subwoofer ? And stereo talk (sound video clips)

[FloJet]

I just installed a JL 12W7AE-3 in JL's custom built H.O. box built for that sub only into the factory stereo in my Escalade. I used a LOC (line out converter) to hook up an (underpowered) JL HD750/1. Signal is not an issue. The amp's gain is just set a touch above the 1/4 notch. This thing has incredible clean deep bass and will make my wiper blades bounce off the windshield. The sub is rated for 1000rms. So if you have high end gear I believe a ported enclosure tuned right with the port up against a vent may be the best way to go in our boats if your looking for deep bass.
View attachment 69084 View attachment 69085

I like those

 

[FloJet]

Lol I just posted these pics in the other thread. But yeah I have 2 m10 JL subs and it sounds great to me. The free cooler will still fit but hard to get in and out. Get a yeti hopper 30 and it fits nicely behind the captain's or passenger's seat View attachment 69134 View attachment 69135

WELL DONE

 

[FloJet]

Ok so back in the boat today and got my htx-6 working. On the back of the amp board my fuse in the distribution block came loose for that amp. I never thought about making sure those fuses were tight when I installed it. Dumb move on my part. So with the one tower speaker out, I shut that amp down and tuned the (6) 6.5's again at 90% head unit volume and a couple clicks under 3/4 on the amps gain. While sitting at the helm I was trying to plan out the rest of the system. Definitely ordering the rev 8's to replace the icon 8's. Also going to throw this out there again, thinking about putting some revo 8's in this location to fill in the front.
View attachment 69227
Now I've been going back and forth over IB's or an enclosure and which location to install them. If I go the IB route, i may install it behind the passenger seat facing forward.
View attachment 69228
It looks like it is flat enough on this side. Now i need to figure out which amp to get. The rev 8's handle 200rms the revo 8's 150 and the jl m10ib5 250. Thoughts?

I would avoid putting subs in the bow area for so many reasons.

 

[FloJet]

I am curious what the Kicker new horn speakers will bring to the table. 11" Driver with 1" horn driver, doesn't look like specs are out yet but the WetSounds seem to be low on the efficency side at 92dB. Actually comparing the two, it looks like they directly going after WetSounds, as both their new offerings are 1" larger than the WS, and the 9" handling more power. Added in LEDs and 360 swivel.

Low on the efficiency side? SMH. Please advise what HCLD has better efficient rating of 92DB on the market?

 

[FloJet]

To give you all idea what can work. First 2 pics is how I vented the bench area. The 3rd pic is when I had my JL Wv3 10s. The last pic is my new setup with 15" subs. So this area is where you all really need to look for sub placement. Now for IB subs IMO they are waste of money if you have room else where. As you can see the 24' lines have plenty of room all through the boat. So I would say go with boxes rather than IB. Plus you will get less rattling of boat parts without using IB.

 

[FloJet]

More lights inside or outside the boat? I was just looking at the drain plug LED light.
Do you know if they are any good? Just curious.... I just saw them for 19.99 obo rt now on eBay.
They even have cup holder light rings for 59.99 obo ...
They think of everything don’t they....lol

Go with these

 

[CraigAR]

I would avoid putting subs in the bow area for so many reasons.

The revo 8's aren't subs that I'm installing there. I'm placing the sub in the battery storage.

 

[FloJet]

The revo 8's aren't subs that I'm installing there. I'm placing the sub in the battery storage.

Aaah gotcha. Sorry read that wrong then. Ya you going to have kicking sound all around the boat then. You bold cutting out more holes lol.

 

[Jaylex]

I want to add just a few lights, maybe a couple cup holder LEDs, and additional LEDs in the JL 880s to give it a little sparkle, and then also wire in a few more courtesy LEDs wired into the factory lighting, especially 2-3 in the tower.

So I want two lighting options, one off the main connext switch (dimmable if possible) that would add a few more lights, including in the tower like on the Limited S.

Then I want a LED setup, preferably RGB on a separate switch so I can use those when Im just posted.

 

[FloJet]

I want to add just a few lights, maybe a couple cup holder LEDs, and additional LEDs in the JL 880s to give it a little sparkle, and then also wire in a few more courtesy LEDs wired into the factory lighting, especially 2-3 in the tower.

So I want two lighting options, one off the main connext switch (dimmable if possible) that would add a few more lights, including in the tower like on the Limited S.

Then I want a LED setup, preferably RGB on a separate switch so I can use those when Im just posted.

I think the main challenge you will have will be the tower speakers. Drilling and all. But besides that, I think you do most of the others in a weekend's time.

 

[CraigAR]

@FloJet now you chime in about IB's causing rattling lol. I just placed my order with crutchfield for a JL 10ib5 that I plan to mount in the battery compartment facing forward.

 

[CraigAR]

edit: they screwed up my order and gave me the non ib sub. Looks like I will make a ported box now and install it in the cooler storage.

 

[FloJet]

edit: they screwed up my order and gave me the non ib sub. Looks like I will make a ported box now and install it in the cooler storage.
View attachment 69327

Hahaha the good man upstairs works in mysterious ways.

 

[FloJet]

But really you can definitely get IB to not rattle. It's just all about the placements of them. With our towers and bimini and all those lose things around the boat, IB just exposes them a little bit more. But don't get me wrong, box subs rattle too. Hehehe.

 

[CraigAR]

So now the question is which type of enclosure to build. Sealed or ported. If going ported do you place the port in front of the wall vent? This is the first time ever putting a subwoofer in a boat for me and I just want to make sure I get deep clean bass. I've always went ported in vehicles. Plan on using 3/4" mdf board.

 

[FloJet]

So now the question is which type of enclosure to build. Sealed or ported. If going ported do you place the port in front of the wall vent? This is the first time ever putting a subwoofer in a boat for me and I just want to make sure I get deep clean bass. I've always went ported in vehicles. Plan on using 3/4" mdf board.

You really cannot go wrong here. That's the biggest debate in subwoofer boxes I believe. I love ported and always went that route until recently. I only have time and space for sealed boxes at this time. The ported I built wouldn't fit by 1 and half inches lol. It was a bummer. Now interms of the port, that really don't make too much of a difference if it's in the front, side, or back.

Sealed are more forgiving in terms of specs. Ported you pretty much need to be exact on the numbers and have the port properly tuned for your subs. The ports facing the gunwale will give you harder bass with expense of more rattling tho. Subs facing the cabin won't be quite as loud but less rattling.

Sealed box will give you a very tight bass and will hit harder on lows frequencies below the ported boxes tuned frequency. So lets say your ported box was tuned at 32 hz, the sealed box would hit harder anything lower than 32 hz. But the ported will hit harder 32 hz and up if that makes sense.

If budget allows, go with Birch wood. Birch is much lighter and stronger then MDF. Plus more water resistant than MDF.

 

[adrianp89]

Low on the efficiency side? SMH. Please advise what HCLD has better efficient rating of 92DB on the market?

True HLCD speakers are typically in the 110db range. However on these tower systems the mid is included which brings it down. The kicker 6” can is 93dB though, just to make you happy .

Anyways back on subject, I will have my IB5 mounted tomorrow. I cut the hole tonight, I will let you guys know my thoughts.

 

[adrianp89]

You really cannot go wrong here. That's the biggest debate in subwoofer boxes I believe. I love ported and always went that route until recently. I only have time and space for sealed boxes at this time. The ported I built wouldn't fit by 1 and half inches lol. It was a bummer. Now interms of the port, that really don't make too much of a difference if it's in the front, side, or back.

Sealed are more forgiving in terms of specs. Ported you pretty much need to be exact on the numbers and have the port properly tuned for your subs. The ports facing the gunwale will give you harder bass with expense of more rattling tho. Subs facing the cabin won't be quite as loud but less rattling.

Sealed box will give you a very tight bass and will hit harder on lows frequencies below the ported boxes tuned frequency. So lets say your ported box was tuned at 32 hz, the sealed box would hit harder anything lower than 32 hz. But the ported will hit harder 32 hz and up if that makes sense.

If budget allows, go with Birch wood. Birch is much lighter and stronger then MDF. Plus more water resistant than MDF.

The ported box will still hit harder below 32 for the most part. You can graph this in WinISD since I know you don’t believe anything I say. But yeah birch is the way to go all day.

 

[CraigAR]

You really cannot go wrong here. That's the biggest debate in subwoofer boxes I believe. I love ported and always went that route until recently. I only have time and space for sealed boxes at this time. The ported I built wouldn't fit by 1 and half inches lol. It was a bummer. Now interms of the port, that really don't make too much of a difference if it's in the front, side, or back.

Sealed are more forgiving in terms of specs. Ported you pretty much need to be exact on the numbers and have the port properly tuned for your subs. The ports facing the gunwale will give you harder bass with expense of more rattling tho. Subs facing the cabin won't be quite as loud but less rattling.

Sealed box will give you a very tight bass and will hit harder on lows frequencies below the ported boxes tuned frequency. So lets say your ported box was tuned at 32 hz, the sealed box would hit harder anything lower than 32 hz. But the ported will hit harder 32 hz and up if that makes sense.

If budget allows, go with Birch wood. Birch is much lighter and stronger then MDF. Plus more water resistant than MDF.

Thanks for the info brother.

 

[FloJet]

True HLCD speakers are typically in the 110db range. However on these tower systems the mid is included which brings it down. The kicker 6” can is 93dB though, just to make you happy .

Anyways back on subject, I will have my IB5 mounted tomorrow. I cut the hole tonight, I will let you guys know my thoughts.

You're kidding me right? 110db sensitivity rating? 6" HCLD vs 10" HCLD?