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Not another subwoofer ? And stereo talk (sound video clips)

The ported box will still hit harder below 32 for the most part. You can graph this in WinISD since I know you don’t believe anything I say. But yeah birch is the way to go all day.
WOW again. Lol. Good sir. No ported box can hit harder below their tuning frequency than a sealed box. It don't work that way.
 
I want to add just a few lights, maybe a couple cup holder LEDs, and additional LEDs in the JL 880s to give it a little sparkle, and then also wire in a few more courtesy LEDs wired into the factory lighting, especially 2-3 in the tower.

So I want two lighting options, one off the main connext switch (dimmable if possible) that would add a few more lights, including in the tower like on the Limited S.

Then I want a LED setup, preferably RGB on a separate switch so I can use those when Im just posted.

It will definitely be looking sweet when you are done.
Did you get the JL 880’s with the LED in them already and wanting to add more led to them?
If that’s the rout you go, let me know how you like them. I purchased the M 880’s with the LEDs but the thought also crossed my mind of adding the LED rings to them. Just wondering if that would be too much.
As for other LED’s around the boat, the 2018 SE came with LED’s on the tower, by the cup holders, and a few other spots, but they are just white light.
The WS xs650’s are the rgb one so those will add colors that I can change with the remote.
Post some pictures when you get’er done.
 
It will definitely be looking sweet when you are done.
Did you get the JL 880’s with the LED in them already and wanting to add more led to them?
If that’s the rout you go, let me know how you like them. I purchased the M 880’s with the LEDs but the thought also crossed my mind of adding the LED rings to them. Just wondering if that would be too much.
As for other LED’s around the boat, the 2018 SE came with LED’s on the tower, by the cup holders, and a few other spots, but they are just white light.
The WS xs650’s are the rgb one so those will add colors that I can change with the remote.
Post some pictures when you get’er done.
Led rings are fairly priced right now I think. Only thing with these is you have to purchase your own controller. I rather do that anyways. I have my setup in 3 zones. Underwater/back storage, Cabin, and towers. I can make them run together or separate, or even play together to the music. Either way I think you all have plenty of options and routes to take.
 
Lol I just posted these pics in the other thread. But yeah I have 2 m10 JL subs and it sounds great to me. The free cooler will still fit but hard to get in and out. Get a yeti hopper 30 and it fits nicely behind the captain's or passenger's seat View attachment 69134 View attachment 69135
I like your sub setup. I have done the same with 2 wetsounds 10" subs. The problem is that they have way to much flex/vibration and move the fiberglass. Do you have that problem as well? Did you beef up the fiberglass to compensate for the power of the subs? Thanks- Dwight and Misty - Houston area
 
@Jaylex, @Mainah, @swatski, @FloJet, @CraigAR, @adrianp89 , @John Mcpartland ,

I noticed everyone is running different amounts of batteries.
How is it working out for you all with the batteries you have?
I currently just have the 2 but was thinking of adding another so that I can run my system longer when beached. I do have the solar panels on top of the Bimini and know they will only help somewhat...
What kind of batteries do you run?
 
I’m sure there is a thread on this subject already just thought I’d ask you all here.
So I apologize ahead of time for being lazy and not looking for the thread...lol
 
I’m sure there is a thread on this subject already just thought I’d ask you all here.
So I apologize ahead of time for being lazy and not looking for the thread...lol
Haha yes another much debated topic. Most use 12v I believe. But I went away from that years ago.
I run (6) 6v batteries. Never died on the lake and can play for two whole days. True deep cycle.
 
Here is pic of the setup.
 

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@Jaylex, @Mainah, @swatski, @FloJet, @CraigAR, @adrianp89 , @John Mcpartland ,

I noticed everyone is running different amounts of batteries.
How is it working out for you all with the batteries you have?
I currently just have the 2 but was thinking of adding another so that I can run my system longer when beached. I do have the solar panels on top of the Bimini and know they will only help somewhat...
What kind of batteries do you run?

Yes @FloJet jet and I had a debate on this topic and I learned something from it. No doubt his setup has some serious amp hour stoarge capacity. For my needs I went with twin group 31 AGM (one house and one start). AGM make great boat batteries as they are maintance free and have most of the benefits of both start and deep cycle batteries. They are enough for my needs and I have never needed to emergency combine when floating for hours. Even with adding my custom boat kegerator I think they will still meet my needs. I will take photos after I mount my 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter in the battery compartment with ballast bag at the back.

Now if you want to blast the sound bar nonstop all day with multiple subs, tower speakers, and so forth the setup @FloJet has might make more sense. True deep cycle golf cart batteries are made to be run down way low and handle a lot of amp hours.
 
Yes @FloJet jet and I had a debate on this topic and I learned something from it. No doubt his setup has some serious amp hour stoarge capacity. For my needs I went with twin group 31 AGM (one house and one start). AGM make great boat batteries as they are maintance free and have most of the benefits of both start and deep cycle batteries. They are enough for my needs and I have never needed to emergency combine when floating for hours. Even with adding my custom boat kegerator I think they will still meet my needs. I will take photos after I mount my 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter in the battery compartment with ballast bag at the back.

Now if you want to blast the sound bar nonstop all day with multiple subs, tower speakers, and so forth the setup @FloJet has might make more sense. True deep cycle golf cart batteries are made to be run down way low and handle a lot of amp hours.

Mainah, I’m sure you can still get a full day of blasting your system from what you have correct?
Out of curiosity, are you familiar with the solar panels on the Yamaha’s and how well they help?
 
I’m sure there is a thread on this subject already just thought I’d ask you all here.
So I apologize ahead of time for being lazy and not looking for the thread...lol
What @Mainah said ^^^
Yamaha JB Solar chargers are cute but for your needs I think you will need a quality multi (two?)-bank charger with shore power. You will need to make the DVSR mod for multiple batteries smart charger.

--
 
@Lion I got the 880s without the LEDs since I knew I wanted to add some RGB lights in the tower and boat at some time. But I also want to add 4-6 more stock courtesy lights that are tied into the factory switch and dimmable. Need to research that a tad more but have the gist of it...I think.

As for batteries that is entirely based on the amps you run and how long you play for. @FloJet has 5 JL HDs and those require a fair amount of power to deliver their constant power, besides that fact that he has 5 amps. I will be running 3 JL M series amps and 2 house batteries will do the trick. I run marine deep cycle batteries from pep boys, have so for the last 4 seasons, and no low battery after playing 3 days for varying times at 80% max volume. I do keep them charged when not in use, but they do the trick. I see some running optimas which are def solid, but I also like interstate marine batteries as well.
 
What @Mainah said ^^^
Yamaha JB Solar chargers are cute but for your needs I think you will need a quality multi (two?)-bank charger with shore power. You will need to make the DVSR mod for multiple batteries smart charger.

--


Lmao, swatski said cute.
 
@Lion I got the 880s without the LEDs since I knew I wanted to add some RGB lights in the tower and boat at some time. But I also want to add 4-6 more stock courtesy lights that are tied into the factory switch and dimmable. Need to research that a tad more but have the gist of it...I think.

As for batteries that is entirely based on the amps you run and how long you play for. @FloJet has 5 JL HDs and those require a fair amount of power to deliver their constant power, besides that fact that he has 5 amps. I will be running 3 JL M series amps and 2 house batteries will do the trick. I run marine deep cycle batteries from pep boys, have so for the last 4 seasons, and no low battery after playing 3 days for varying times at 80% max volume. I do keep them charged when not in use, but they do the trick. I see some running optimas which are def solid, but I also like interstate marine batteries as well.

Question, how are the batteries connected to recharge them while the boat is running...?
 
Yes @FloJet jet and I had a debate on this topic and I learned something from it. No doubt his setup has some serious amp hour stoarge capacity. For my needs I went with twin group 31 AGM (one house and one start). AGM make great boat batteries as they are maintance free and have most of the benefits of both start and deep cycle batteries. They are enough for my needs and I have never needed to emergency combine when floating for hours. Even with adding my custom boat kegerator I think they will still meet my needs. I will take photos after I mount my 1500 watt pure sine wave inverter in the battery compartment with ballast bag at the back.

Now if you want to blast the sound bar nonstop all day with multiple subs, tower speakers, and so forth the setup @FloJet has might make more sense. True deep cycle golf cart batteries are made to be run down way low and handle a lot of amp hours.
Well said. My is little over board. I just hate dead batteries on the lake especially when party just got started ;)
 
Question, how are the batteries connected to recharge them while the boat is running...?
Well you stators will recharge them as long as you have not changed any wiring. The problem is it's kinda of a joke. You would need to run your boat at WOT for hours to even budge the batteries. Yamaha setup works by charging your starting battery first, then your house. So you're best to have a good reserve capacity if you trying to play music all day.
 
What @Mainah said ^^^
Yamaha JB Solar chargers are cute but for your needs I think you will need a quality multi (two?)-bank charger with shore power. You will need to make the DVSR mod for multiple batteries smart charger.

--
I agree. You have lots of research and work to do before lake season sir. You should be good with (2) 12v batteries or (2) 6v batteries. That should last you most of the day not all day for you setup you going to put in.
 
I'm running the 2 factory interstate batteries with my htx-6 amp and rockford m400-4 amp. (6) 6.5's and towers. My voltage with that setup has not gone below 12.1. We will see what happens when I add the JL m600/6 amp, jl m10w5 and revo 8's.

My plan is to keep the htx-6 running the ws 6.5's, run the new jl m600/6 bridged in 3 channel mode for the rev 8 towers and the sub and then use my rf m400-4 bridged for the revo 8 speakers. Thoughts
 
I only play it loud when wakeboarding or crusing. Lots of homes and boats on my lake and I am the type to consider others. I have not made the batteries break a sweat but am sure they would last all day floating at moderate levels. They will also last a long time in number of years both because they are AGM, I don’t fraw them way down amd I have a dual bank shore charger with shore power.

Think of the solar panels as weak trickle chargers. They help over a number of days. Do be careful executing any dvsr mods as how the solar panels are wired will mater and I don’t have a boat with the panels to test and advise. Given how the dvsr operates even with the mod I believe that the batteries should be of the same chemistry, size, and health when installed.

What one needs will all depend on how many watts they are going to consume and how loud it is played will affect consumption.

I always recommend researching AND understanding which it seems @Lion is doing. I am sure you will end up with a great performing system.

One last piece is great connections make a big difference. Tinning the wire, fluxing the inside of the crimp, crimping and then reheating makes a great connection.
 
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