Winterizing in MN

[Bdog]

I know there is a lot of discussion about this but it’s also geographic dependent somewhat as well. Do I really need to be paying the dealer $250 to winterize the boat? Can I get away with leaving the battery on a tender and stabilizing the full gas tank and making sure it’s drained of all water? I don’t think fogging is necessary correct? Last year I paid the dealer to do this and I’m just not sure it’s totally necessary. I’ll be happy to change the oil and the plugs in the spring before I use it but am I overlooking anything? I plan on storing it in an outbuilding with the shipping cover on for the winter.

 

[WestMIJet]

I’m probably not quite as cold as you but I run some RV antifreeze through it. Pretty simple 5 minute task. I took an old 12 volt bilge pump, attached a hose and brass threaded fitting. I screw my hose attachment to that and run a gallon and a half through each engine just as if I was running the engine on the hose. See video. I skipped fogging. No issues. Stored in cold building.

Winterize Yamaha

 

[RightStuff]

I'm in MN as well, here is what I have done for the past 6 years without issue in the fall for shutting down the boat... No sense paying $250 for that service if you ask me. After buying a oil extractor and a couple other tools the first time, it's ~$50 for oil and filters for 2 engines each year and $30 for some other supplies I have below for actual storage. Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

- Run Marine Sta-bil thru the gas starting in Sept. Fill the tank one last time before changing the oil adding a bit more stabilizer to up the ratio a bit for storage at that time
- Change oil and oil filters after last time out.
- Apply a bit of fogging oil thru the spark plug holes after shut down, turn over engine for a couple seconds (no hose) with lanyard removed so it doesn't completely start.
- Blow out hose lines with air compressor from where you attach the hose just to get rid of a small bit of water.
- Depending on where your storage is (indoor, outdoor, pests, no pests, etc) here's a couple other things to consider:

-> Tape off a couple of the hull fittings (bilge, cooling pissers, anchor locker, etc) just to prevent things from getting in.​

-> When heading to storage I put dryer sheets in various places and also shave Irish Spring soap to prevent mice, not sure if this works, but I haven't had any mice issues. ​

-> I also grab a couple Damp-Rid containers and put them in a couple low spots, like between the engines, ski locker, and in the helm compartment.​

-> I know people that put their trailer on jack stands to get load off the tires (I haven't done this).​

I have never ran RV antifreeze, never had any issues and you know how cold it gets up here. My storage is indoors, not heated or insulated.

 

[biffdotorg]

I'm in MN as well, here is what I have done for the past 6 years without issue in the fall for shutting down the boat... No sense paying $250 for that service if you ask me. After buying a oil extractor and a couple other tools the first time, it's ~$50 for oil and filters for 2 engines each year and $30 for some other supplies I have below for actual storage. Feel free to let me know if you have any more questions.

- Run Marine Sta-bil thru the gas starting in Sept. Fill the tank one last time before changing the oil adding a bit more stabilizer to up the ratio a bit for storage at that time
- Change oil and oil filters after last time out.
- Apply a bit of fogging oil thru the spark plug holes after shut down, turn over engine for a couple seconds (no hose) with lanyard removed so it doesn't completely start.
- Blow out hose lines with air compressor from where you attach the hose just to get rid of a small bit of water.
- Depending on where your storage is (indoor, outdoor, pests, no pests, etc) here's a couple other things to consider:

-> Tape off a couple of the hull fittings (bilge, cooling pissers, anchor locker, etc) just to prevent things from getting in.​

-> When heading to storage I put dryer sheets in various places and also shave Irish Spring soap to prevent mice, not sure if this works, but I haven't had any mice issues. ​

-> I also grab a couple Damp-Rid containers and put them in a couple low spots, like between the engines, ski locker, and in the helm compartment.​

-> I know people that put their trailer on jack stands to get load off the tires (I haven't done this).​

I have never ran RV antifreeze, never had any issues and you know how cold it gets up here. My storage is indoors, not heated or insulated.

Minnesota boater as well. This right here above is where it's at. And don't forget the openings on the trailer. If mice are present, those little suckers will chew up trailer wiring.

 

[shnknapp]

Still waiting on our boat but when we had our WaveRunners, we did the what was mentioned above. FYI for any other member located in MN, the MN State Fair grounds offers indoor storage. We didn't have a place to store and every place around me wanted $300-500 for the winter. Called the fair grounds and it was $200 (they charge by length of trailer) for the season.

 

[ericoask424]

Also if anybody drops in by Wabasha, Alexanders Boat storage is indoors on concrete 600 for the year.