Listen up SVHO engine owners...

[Ozark]

It's the same type of system that a car PCV uses:

How Does a Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) System Work?

Just seeing the phrase "positive crankcase ventilation" probably makes your head hurt, because it sounds, well, complicated. But it really isn't all that complex.

auto.howstuffworks.com

From the link you sent it says

“The idea of an oil and air separator is to extract the oil from the air before it's sent back to the intake manifold and put it someplace where it won't cause a problem, either back in the crankcase or in a small receptacle called a catch can.”

From what I am interpreting, the only difference in the factory installed oil separator and an aftermarket catch can is the destination of the “separated” oil. Sounds like the factory oil separator returns the oil to the oil pan, whereas a catch can would isolate/store it for disposal.

It seems the only benefit of an aftermarket catch can vs. factory oil separator would be to stop the separated oil from returning to the oil pan by storing it separately. However, it seems that everyone installing catch cans are installing them downstream of the factory oil separator, which would render the catch can useless in stopping the “separated” oil from returning to the oil pan if that was the goal, since the oil separator has already performed it’s task.

What am I missing here? How is a catch can beneficial in this application where an oil separator is already installed?

I also want to mention that I am in no way attempting to debate or prove anyone wrong here. Just looking to wrap my head around this.

 

[212s]

What am I missing here? How is a catch can beneficial in this application where an oil separator is already installed?

Not sure...perhaps the separator doesn't catch all the oil and some residue gets sucked back in through the intake?

 

[kgower]

@Ozark I can't answer your question, but the after markets sure looks better.

 

[sikm3]

From the link you sent it says

“The idea of an oil and air separator is to extract the oil from the air before it's sent back to the intake manifold and put it someplace where it won't cause a problem, either back in the crankcase or in a small receptacle called a catch can.”

From what I am interpreting, the only difference in the factory installed oil separator and an aftermarket catch can is the destination of the “separated” oil. Sounds like the factory oil separator returns the oil to the oil pan, whereas a catch can would isolate/store it for disposal.

It seems the only benefit of an aftermarket catch can vs. factory oil separator would be to stop the separated oil from returning to the oil pan by storing it separately. However, it seems that everyone installing catch cans are installing them downstream of the factory oil separator, which would render the catch can useless in stopping the “separated” oil from returning to the oil pan if that was the goal, since the oil separator has already performed it’s task.

What am I missing here? How is a catch can beneficial in this application where an oil separator is already installed?

I also want to mention that I am in no way attempting to debate or prove anyone wrong here. Just looking to wrap my head around this.

The goal of the catch can isn't to return the oil to the crankscase. Its purpose is to separate it from re-entering the crankcase which would reduce a small amount of hp. The oil separators do a decent enough job but, there is still some trace amount of oil vapor that blows by the oil separator. Therefore the catch can traps some of that vapor from re-entering the crankcase which is beneficial to supercharged engines. How much of a benefit is debatable.

 

[Brody2012]

I want to go with the 50mm BOV. I understand this means I will need to remove stock airbox and replace with a conical air filter. Which air filter is everyone using? i'm not seeing where anyone called out a part number or link for filter.

 

[Crob83]

I want to go with the 50mm BOV. I understand this means I will need to remove stock airbox and replace with a conical air filter. Which air filter is everyone using? i'm not seeing where anyone called out a part number or link for filter.

This is the one I went with

 

[jEt_jAk]

I am using the Riva spark arrestor.

 

[Brody2012]

This is the one I went with

Thanks man. Will I need anything else besides the filter? No tube adapter or anything?

 

[Crob83]

Thanks man. Will I need anything else besides the filter? No tube adapter or anything?

Nope just a metal hose clamp, which u can just reuse the one from the stock setup. If you have deleted your ribbon you will need a flame arrestor one as jet Jak said above

 

[Brody2012]

Nope just a metal hose clamp, which u can just reuse the one from the stock setup. If you have deleted your ribbon you will need a flame arrestor one as jet Jak said above

Thanks bro!!

 

[Sx240]

My buddy has a catch can on his car and you definitely do not want to dump it back into the motor it is nasty!!

 

[TN_seamonkey]

Again, full disclaimer that any catch can is as good as another so here’s an example of a generic that just so happens to be the one I use:

Amazon.com

I just picked this up today. A golfball-sized chunk of steel wool came in the box. What the heck is that for? Ha! Just throw it in the canister??

 

[TN_seamonkey]

Ah! I just found a youtube video that indicates that the steel wool is to be optionally inserted into the baffle for additional filtering. I'm going that route: closed system with steel wool filter in baffle.

 

[Monster77]

Agreed. I ended up going with the 50 mm and got lucky with the 2019 design change on the intake tube. I have no clearance issues at all. If I had a 2018 or older I would definitely have gone with the 35 mm.

Was it the TiAl 50mm you installed?

 

[Wake_Dude]

Was it the TiAl 50mm you installed?

Hello. I went with the non-brand name. Build quality and function are great! No issues.

 

[Crob83]

Thanks bro!!

Just a heads up I went ahead and ordered the tube that @jEt_jAk recommended just for piece of mind. It's only $17 so why not, the filter never came loose but it's not on there the greatest...just fyi. I ran half the season like that with no issues but I would feel better with the tube

 

[Brody2012]

Just a heads up I went ahead and ordered the tube that @jEt_jAk recommended just for piece of mind. It's only $17 so why not, the filter never came loose but it's not on there the greatest...just fyi. I ran half the season like that with no issues but I would feel better with the tube

10-4. Thanks for letting me know. I just ordered it as well.

 

[SCSCOTT]

Out of curiosity how did those that replaced the stock airbox with the K&N attach the K&N to the soft air intake hose. The air intake hose on my 2021 to the factory airbox is way to soft to clamp to. I would assume I need some sort of coupler between the air intake tube and K&N for them both to clamp to. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Edit I did a little more research... How about this. The factory air intake hose ID is right at 3.0" & the K&N RE-0950 filter has a 3.5" ID and a 1.75" flare length. This HPS joiner has an OD of 3" to 3.5" and is 4" long. I guess my concern would be the overall length of the Filter with coupler attached would be 8.25 inches. Its going to be a tight fit with the possibility of pinching the air intake pipe slightly and the need to support the filter. HPS coupler Pinching the air intake may negate any possible airflow gain from the K&N if it is significant. Don't get me wrong I am not expecting any noticeable power increase due to the K&N, but I am sure the calibrated butt dyno will be looking for some.

EDIT EDIT - The HPS coupler did not work as delivered. As I feared the assembly was to long and pinched the intake back against the Supercharger Housing.


So I marked the coupler and cut it with a Dremel tool and jigsaw, then sanded all edges smooth.





I inserted it into the factory 3" intake tube and fit the 3.5" ID K&N (RE-0950) over the factory intake tube and clamped in on. Then added a second clamp on the Factory tube to insure (Likely overkill) the cut coupler does not move. The very thin cut coupler (about 1 5/8") gave me something solid to clamp to and not collapse the factory intake tube.

This allowed the intake tube to sit in a more neutral position and not be pinched. Then I installed the Oil Catch Can. I used ty-raps for now to support the filter end of the intake but plan to fashion an aluminum support bar of some sort that clamps to the filter clamp and bolts to the engine compartment wall where the factory intake box was.



I will likely relocated the oil catch can, only held in by ty-raps currently, above and to the right of the filter and secure it with Stainless nuts and bolts after I get the right length. The battery switches are directly opposite the filter housing so there are limited places to drill through in that area.

 

[Summerweatherlover]

Looking at catch cans I noticed they have some similar to the ones posted earlier in this thread that include a bronze filter instead of the steel wool baffle. Has anyone tried these before? Would the bronze filter be too restrictive?

I’m concerned about using steel wool because I don’t want a piece of it to break loose and get into my engine. Might just run the catch can without the steel wool but I thought bronze filter might be a good alternative.

Would appreciate anyone with experience or knowledge to provide their feedback. Thanks.

 

[Ribs77]

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but it's February and I just got my boat, so I'm over-researching...

I have a stock 2021 AR195, so it has the SVHO engine. I'm not planning any performance mods for this season, nor do I believe any have already been done. Do I need to consider installing a BOV, or is it only important if you're running a modified air intake, ribbon delete, etc?