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Battery type

HangOutdoors

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135rc x 60second = 8,100 seconds
8,100 x 25 = 202,500 coulombs of charge
202,500 / 3,600 = 56.25 Ah

or simpler way.

AH = .4167*(RC)
AH = .4167(135)
AH = 56.25

or the simplest

AH = RC/2.4
AH = 135/2.4
AH = 56.25


I believe my formula's are correct.

Possibly Cheap, White Labeled Flooded Battery. Hopefully Marine.
 
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HangOutdoors

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Yes Flooded. It is the ability of the battery to sustain an electrical load delivering 25 amperes before its voltage drops below 10.5 volts. I was reading up on all this stuff before I added an AGM TPPL Battery for my house as well as the second battery and exploring Lithium's.

Lots of info on the net a bit overwhelming.

If you are going to just run the boat and the stock stereo a bit you should be fine. I prefer two batteries in case one dies, but ran all last year when purchased with the stock one that came with it.
 

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HangOutdoors

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I wouldn't. With a Lithium Iron battery, there is a good chance that your stator (which charges your battery off the engine) may not be able to recharge it to full, if you run it down, which then would need an onboard charger that you plug in, specifically made for Lithium to recharge it. Not all do.

Personally, what I would do is the Blue Seas Add a Battery kit with ACR. Then I would buy a nice second battery AGM and install it. Will save you money and gives you redundancy. The ACR will take care of charging them both off your stator alternating so that you don't have to think about playing with the switch. Although if you are not going to upgrade stereo with amps and such then this could be overkill for you.

If you don't want to go that route, just get yourself a better battery or I would preferably get a good AGM and replace the one you have. I don't know what type of water you boat on, but I always prefer redundancy. Search the forums for batteries and you will see alot good batteries that different members use for their own specific use cases.
 

Robconn

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Installed 2nd battery and perko switch at year 3. Have not used a trickle charger on either in the off season. The original battery is still going strong at year 5. No electrical upgrades other than USB port added.
each year I have allotted $500 in upgrades. This year will be on board trickle charger. And most likely replace the original battery.My family and I feel better prepared for a dead battery occurring with the addition of a second battery. Adding one does have its affect reducing the stress that comes with boating. There’s not an immediate need to add second battery with a new boat but definitely should be done.
 
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jimbobalu

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Aren't these boats supposed to come with 85Ah batteries? Did I get short changed?
 

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Not sure what they come with. Pretty sure mine is 85Ah. Not sure why they white label their batteries. If you are, they short changed you.
 

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Aren't these boats supposed to come with 85Ah batteries? Did I get short changed?
as noted by the label, River Valley, or any dealer for that matter is the one that provides the batteries in these boats upon delivery.

Is it fair to ask why you think you need to replace a new battery? As this should be more than sufficient for the factory setup. Now if you are considering stereo upgrades, yes, add a second battery and go AGM/Deep Cycle. But no sense in getting rid of a perfectly good battery until you have gotten a few seasons out of it. It truly takes nothing to spin over the waverunner engine you have in that boat.
 

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I saw in another post that the battery is 85Ah, if this is true, shouldn't that be what I received? It looks like they gave me a 56Ah battery, not what Yamaha states. I'll be checking the manual when I get home. I spent a lot of money on this boat including dealer prep so shouldn't I get what I paid for? Battery anxiety is real :oops::D
 

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@jimbobalu If that is what you are supposed to get than you should get what you paid for.
 

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@jimbobalu Don't have fear on battery range anxiety. The stock 190 electronics draw very little. Even the stock stereo is only on a 10Amp fuse I think.

I'm on season #5 with my battery. I charge it over the week with a simple trickle charger that I plug into an extension cord and set on the swim platform. I've gone as long as 8hrs I think on the battery with the stereo above 50% and it still started right up. If you're really worried about a dead flat on the stock electronics. A Li-Ion based jump pack is cheaper than a new battery setup, and lighter too. That's what I carry "just in case".

I would run what you have for now and see how it works before upgrading. Unless you're just looking for a way to spend money/mod the boat, in which case, don't listen to a thing I said :D :D
 

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@2kwik4u Thanks, that makes me feel better. Do you know what Ah your battery is? I'm just concerned now that I didn't get the right capacity. I do have a jump battery.
 

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@2kwik4u Thanks, that makes me feel better. Do you know what Ah your battery is? I'm just concerned now that I didn't get the right capacity. I do have a jump battery.
I don't know that there is a "right capacity" for these boats. Yamaha ships them "empty" and the dealer installs the battery as best I can tell. Can't find anything on the website specs that say what size the battery is anyway.

Dealer put an Interstate 24M-HD in my boat. Interstate doesn't list a capacity on their website. According to this site, I'm probably between 75 and 85aH on this battery. Again, I've run mine for many hours without even an inclination of it not starting. Stock stereo head unit, Wetsounds 200W sound bar, and a couple phones charging in the glove box the whole time. Key in the off position. Judging by the pictures you got the same size battery I did. Same class and pole configuration anyway (24M).

I use a Battery Tender maintainer on the weekends. Bought it from a guy at the office for $20. Bought a set of leads from Amazon and hooked them to the battery. It's tucked into the wiring near the switch, and I moved the battery as far aft and center as I could in the rear compartment. Hookup is quick and easy now, and since the boat lives in the garage it's always charged.

I've never unhooked the battery in the winter either. Probably not best practice. Again, the boat lives in the garage, and I'll throw the tender on it around February or so, after storing it around October. It's charged when I'm ready to get it out in March (probably within a day of plugging in to be honest), and has worked great for the last 4.5 seasons.

Keep in mind these are TINY little engines you're turning over. It's only a 1.8L engine. You can literally start these things with a tiny lawnmower battery. There is also no transmission to add to the starters workload here. I would wager you could pull start them if you had a way to attach the rope and give it a yank......Actually.....I think I might have to try that one day just to see. Gotta figure out how to get a rope on the output shaft though.....Hrmmm
 

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@jimbobalu
It comes down to your specific use case. The type of water you are on, how you will be using the battery, etc. I have a jump pack, but when I am 5 miles + off shore here in the Great Lakes, I would be foolish not to have a second battery in an emergency for whatever reason. Plus the jump pack is just another thing I need to think about and check or charge.

On the inland lakes around here I can swim to shore if needed without breaking a sweat.
 

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All inland lakes here in Minnesota, we have 10,000 of them to choose from, so I don't really want the hassle of installing a second battery. I think as long as I have the correct capacity battery and a jumper, I should be fine. I have to keep talking myself out of buying more stuff for the boat.
 

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All inland lakes here in Minnesota, we have 10,000 of them to choose from, so I don't really want the hassle of installing a second battery. I think as long as I have the correct capacity battery and a jumper, I should be fine. I have to keep talking myself out of buying more stuff for the boat.
Just go the route that I/most people on here do and go crazy and buy a few thousand (or more) of stuff you want when you first get the boat. And then quit for a while....lol
 

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@HangOutdoors
So the manual states the battery is supposed to be 85Ah, you calculated 56Ah, how sure are you of your numbers?

Thanks
 

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Pretty darn sure. You can do an internet search for how to convert Reserve Capacity to Ah. Although it isn't exact it is within 1ah +-. You will probably stumble across 1 if not all of the formula's above, that is what I did when I was working on batteries.

To be honest, I don't care much for some say. We pay a pretty darn penny for these boats and somehow someway we all get f$%$#d. Whether it is a smaller battery, no shipping cover, loose hoses, scratches, boats that are leaking, cut vinyl, gel coat cracking, missing parts, slow service times, and the list goes on. It is about time we get what we are paying for and has been indicated in a quality manner.
 

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I saw in another post that the battery is 85Ah, if this is true, shouldn't that be what I received? It looks like they gave me a 56Ah battery, not what Yamaha states. I'll be checking the manual when I get home. I spent a lot of money on this boat including dealer prep so shouldn't I get what I paid for? Battery anxiety is real :oops::D

You have a group 24 hybrid (marine starting / cycling battery). Perfectly fit for it's intended purpose.

The battery capacity in Ah is not normally listed for starting batteries... so it's odd that the manual specifies 85ah. They probably should have specified the physical size (group 24) or MCCA rating required. It's provided by the dealer, not Yamaha. It's job is to start the engine, so Ah is not relevant, as it is not a deep cycle battery.
 
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