1.8L engines missing/vibrating

[tdonoughue]

Do you have to pull the engine back to remove it?

I'm pretty sure you do... But I think I remember people doing so by sliding the engine (rather than fully pulling it). Still, that requires messing with the shims to get everything back as it was. Never done it, but that is my understanding.

 

[Matt Phillips]

I agree with @Evil Sports above in that this sounds like a Yamaha to some degree when out of the water. To me, they sort of sound like they have some BBs in a tin can when they are out of the water. Once they are in the water they quiet down tremendously. I've always attributed this to no water resistance on the driveline when they are on a lift/trailer. However, once in the water, there's enough resistance they settle down tremendously.

How does it sound when it's in the water?

 

[David Martin]

Thanks Matt I feel better...... just a long time I/O boater with Merc so the extra (tin can))noise out of water was bothering me. Nice and quiet in the water. As for the engine vibration as always Plugs are always suspect on a miss fire but mostly what I see in the videos of a rough running 1.8 engine is just a case of a high performance low MASS engine..............my 1.8 has a small mass for its HP couple that with 210psi compression and it just flat out vibrates more the the normal marine cast iron GM engine V8 V6 or I4 higher mass motors.

If one wants to see what a true miss out on a Yamaha I4 just pull one of the injector connectors or coil connector off and start her up.......sheeesh she show you just how flexible her motor mounts are.

 

[Mike Byrd]

The noise of the motors quiet down in the water compared to my video, but my motors still have the excessive vibration/missing out signs. It is intermittent as well. I really think it is the couplers. Hopefully the backordered couplers won't be too long so I can get them installed and post another video for comparison.

 

[David Martin]

Thanks Mike let us/me know how quiet she gets after the coupler change and the cost if a dealer is doing the change out. I am having surgery on 3 disk in my spine so bending over a motor fixing a coupler is not in my future for quite some time. It will probably shock me as to what a Yamaha shop wants........!!!!!! lol

 

[Mike Byrd]

I will be changing these out myself.

The ETA for the couplers is showing 15-90 days. LOL. They really know how to narrow it down.

It might be a while before I can get these changed.

 

[Evil Sports]

Good luck David, Im trying to avoid a L5 fusion but reality keep slapping me in the face.

 

[David Martin]

Have you check Ebay I saw Yamaha couplers OEM and both places said thay had them in stock...........Have not found the engine side metal coupler yet just the rubber piece and the metal housing on the mid bearing side.

 

[Mike Byrd]

I am not changing the metal couplers. I am being told to change these requires quite a bit of torque and heat to break them loose. I don't want to deal with that working inside the boat. I am going to skip the new Yamaha Quiet Ride setup and just replace the stock rubber couplers.

Since my boating season is nearing the end, I wasn't concerned with the back-order. The price I paid was quite a bit less than what I saw on eBay. If I had to have them right away, I would have paid it but there wasn't a huge rush.

 

[tdonoughue]

Pics and a writeup on the replacement would be appreciated, when you get them. Besides, what else you got to do over the winter? Gotta entertain us somehow...

 

[DRock3d]

Is #1 what you're replacing @Mike Byrd

 

[Mike Byrd]

Yes. #1 is the rubber engine coupling.

 

[14SX190]

Yes. #1 is the rubber engine coupling.

It looks like mine is suffering from the same thing as your video. It was the only thing I didn't replace when I replaced Intermediate housing
Where are you about?

Looks like I will be jacking engine forward to replace it but not sure to mess with one bolt and shim not EM or remove the two holding EM to hull??

 

[Mike Byrd]

My parts are still on back-order so I have not started looking into this yet.

 

[14SX190]

Just an update.

Replaced rubber dampner only to find out engine may of been misaligned.

Check your engline alignment if your suffering from play before replacing.
Much easier....

 

[DRock3d]

Just an update.

Replaced rubber dampner only to find out engine may of been misaligned.

Check your engline alignment if your suffering from play before replacing.
Much easier....

So is your problem solved?

 

[14SX190]

So is your problem solved?

As far as the play in the coupler yes
When I installed new one and slide engine in there was still play.

Once engine was centered the play was gone.

Hopefully test tomorrow as I put in new impeller and housing.

 

[DRock3d]

As far as the play in the coupler yes
When I installed new one and slide engine in there was still play.

Once engine was centered the play was gone.

Hopefully test tomorrow as I put in new impeller and housing.

Any updates?

 

[14SX190]

Any updates?

It's a work in progress.

New wear ring and impeller was an improvement. Turning 8000+ rpm's and constant 45mph

During install of new rubber dampener I had pump off and aligned it the best I can. When I went to install pump the DS was binding (tough to slide on) but it was on.
Before the water test I ran it on hose and found a leak from ruptured hose. Also a shim under engine (UGH)
The problem is I don't know which side? So eyeballed best I could and shim went under EM side.

Water tested it and had vibration and noise so I stopped, Loosened bolts to engine mount and ran it to let engine settle on its won way. Ran good the whole day but I knew I would re shim to other side. 50/50 chance.

2nd attempt put shim on IM side (left pump in). On 2nd water test same thing vibration and noise. Stopped again, loosen bolts, ran engine, boat ran with out problems.

Got home and took pump off. This time the pump slide off and on not like first time so I know engine alignment was better 2nd go around

Flushed engine with pump bolts loose and engine mont loose and coupler seems to be with in spec as the are flat to each other and no play in coupler. 3rd water test will tell.

I think I'm missing a shim as I don't know if it ever was in alignment so I'm working with what I had.
I'm hoping someone can tell me how many shims in the rear have you had?

 

[Beachbummer]

The shims I'm pretty sure are unique to your install/hull/engine. If it's all well aligned, after coupler replacement, age, etc and the added shim makes it worse...it seems you are better aligned than before. Bad alignment might also explain your coupler eaten up?

Measure and if it all lines up you are good.

This is not from your boat's manual, but not sure how much this alignment instructions have changed. Perhaps use with caution? or seek a service manual for yours? Hope it helps.