1.8L engines missing/vibrating

[14SX190]

The shims I'm pretty sure are unique to your install/hull/engine. If it's all well aligned, after coupler replacement, age, etc and the added shim makes it worse...it seems you are better aligned than before. Bad alignment might also explain your coupler eaten up?

Measure and if it all lines up you are good.

This is not from your boat's manual, but not sure how much this alignment instructions have changed. Perhaps use with caution? or seek a service manual for yours? Hope it helps.

The rubber piece was fine as I changed it thinking it was bad but coupler still had play until engine was better aligned to remove play.


Yip
Its hard to be in spec when your talking .05mm and sticking your head down there. I have it flat around majority of coupler at the moment with zero to little play

Re installing pump this week and fingers crossed I addressed engine alignment troubles or I am looking for something not there.

Boat accelerates great but different than before. Its hard to explain but it works!

 

[tdonoughue]

From the spec on the page posted, the coupler should be 2-4 mm apart (with the rubber insert), so if you have zero play in that direction, it is probably too close and needs to be backed off. 2-4 mm should be measurable (even by eye).

As to the vertical alignment, that one is 0-.5 mm. That you can measure with a feeler gauge, like you do for points or a spark plug. Put a straight edge on one half and try to slide a feeler gauge of .5 mm in the gap. No vision necessary...

 

[jmargo]

With a new coupler should it be completely tight with no twisting movement or have a little play. I just checked mine and it's a little loose.
What would a shop charge to replace these ?
Can the engine slide forward without disconnecting anything except the exhaust coupler and intake hose ?

 

[14SX190]

Can the engine slide forward without disconnecting anything except the exhaust coupler and intake hose ?

I took IM off to have more space to move and lift.

A shop would charge no less than 500 bucks.

 

[jmargo]

I took IM off to have more space to move and lift.

A shop would charge no less than 500 bucks.

IM ?

Can you remove the single bolt through the mounts or do you have to pull the two that mount it to the hull ?

 

[Mike Byrd]

I removed the entire airbox assembly. This is very simple and opens up a lot of access. The rubber coupler between the exhaust and waterbox also needs to be loosened so they will seperate when sliding the engine forward. If I recall, I don't think I disconnected or removed anything else.

You should remove the single bolt between the engine and the motor mount. I have heard of people snapping bolts off when trying to remove the ones that attach the mount to the boat.

The single bolts are red loctited and the "twisting" of the rubber mount (when trying to break these loose) makes removing these a pain. There is minimal room to get to these. The one under the exhaust is especially bad for access. I had to climb into the engine bay and access it from the rear.

The original shims under the motor mounts should keep your engine at the proper height alignment as long as you re-install them exactly the way the factory did. For the longitudinal clearance, I used 2 shims (thickness per the service manual) and placed them between the couplers at 3 and 9 o'clock. With these in place, I just slid the engine back into place and the shims kept the required clearance.

 

[14SX190]

IM ?

Can you remove the single bolt through the mounts or do you have to pull the two that mount it to the hull ?

Intake Manifold.

 

[jmargo]

Any easy ways to lift the motor without an A frame or a tree ? Can you run a 4X4 across the boat and lift with a come along ?

 

[14SX190]

I got a rope under oil pan and used extreme lifting abilities when I did it in garage

You got this.

I loosened EM bolts just enough to lift engine and then removed one bolt and shim underneath.

Carefully not to have one stick and find it later like me once you slide engine forward off mount.


Blocking bottom to support it may work if you can pull and lift. It's difficult with one set of hands.
Wish I could give you a hand

 

[Mike Byrd]

I finally got to take the boat out this past weekend. I just wanted to share that the rubber couplers were the cause of the noise in the first post. The engine vibrating/noise at idle is completely gone.

 

[djdiplomat]

I finally got to take the boat out this past weekend. I just wanted to share that the rubber couplers were the cause of the noise in the first post. The engine vibrating/noise at idle is completely gone.

I just bought a 212SS with the exact same sound on the same side engine. Do you still have the p/n of the coupler? Was it hard to swap out?

 

[Cobra Jet Steering LLC]

2012 Yamaha 212SS (XAT1800CL) Jet Unit 2 showing it on the picture as number 1 but not showing a price so I wonder why there is a new part number shown on the link in the number 1 section click on the link and se the picture also

Rubber Shaft Coupling

6AP-4581J-01-00

 

[Mike Byrd]

I swapped both couplers out since they were both noisy. It was not the funnest of jobs to swap out. Access to the motor mounts is a pain. Sliding the engines forward to swap the coupler out takes quite a bit of effort. See post #46 for some other tips.

I cannot really say what is easy for me versus other people. I am a mechanical engineer and work on cars, boats, motorcycles all the time so it is hard for me to guess. What is easy for me might not be for the next guy or gal.

 

[djdiplomat]

I swapped both couplers out since they were both noisy. It was not the funnest of jobs to swap out. Access to the motor mounts is a pain. Sliding the engines forward to swap the coupler out takes quite a bit of effort. See post #46 for some other tips.

I cannot really say what is easy for me versus other people. I am a mechanical engineer and work on cars, boats, motorcycles all the time so it is hard for me to guess. What is easy for me might not be for the next guy or gal.

Got it thanks for the feedback (missed post 46). I own a repair shop and work on cars as well so it should be pretty straightforward I hope. I am new to boats though, I picked this one up from an auction and trying to fix it up. Engines only have 85hours so seems weird these would go so quick. Is the coupler bolted down or just held in there by the pressure from the engine side and shaft? I am going to take off the cover tomorrow and look further.

Here is a video of mine I just took today:

 

[Neutron]

Got it thanks for the feedback (missed post 46). I own a repair shop and work on cars as well so it should be pretty straightforward I hope. I am new to boats though, I picked this one up from an auction and trying to fix it up. Engines only have 85hours so seems weird these would go so quick. Is the coupler bolted down or just held in there by the pressure from the engine side and shaft? I am going to take off the cover tomorrow and look further.

Here is a video of mine I just took today:

The rubber cushion in between the two coupler is not bolted in. It could wear prematurely if the motors are out of alignment or if you have one or more bad motor mounts, which i have seen plenty go bad

 

[Riveramx]

Have you ruled out a failed coil(s)?

mine did the same thing. I checked the coils and spar plugs, even the fuel and air restrictions. nope, it was the intermediate bearing. Found corrosion and a bad roller bearing. I have greased the intermediate bearing but it seemed there was water washing it away. My boat is 12 years old and I use this boat a lot. right now waiting on parts to arrive.

 

[Riveramx]

mine did the same thing. I checked the coils and spar plugs, even the fuel and air restrictions. nope, it was the intermediate bearing. Found corrosion and a bad roller bearing. I have greased the intermediate bearing but it seemed there was water washing it away. My boat is 12 years old and I use this boat a lot. right now waiting on parts to arrive.

 

[Riveramx]

I think I am going to grease my intermediate bearing more often.