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10 hr service how much grease for the bearing housing

Cambo

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I took a wrench and unscrewed the zerk put some weed line in and it was dry. Then used a syringe and injected some grease ,it was thinned out enough so that it could be sucked in the syringe. Filled it with pressure until it would push back so I felt like that was enough. Has anyone unscrewed the zerk after pumping grease. I would like to know if any flows out Is the zerk in to keep the contents under pressure similar to how the bearing buddies work?
 

MidnightRider

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I took a wrench and unscrewed the zerk put some weed line in and it was dry. Then used a syringe and injected some grease ,it was thinned out enough so that it could be sucked in the syringe. Filled it with pressure until it would push back so I felt like that was enough. Has anyone unscrewed the zerk after pumping grease. I would like to know if any flows out Is the zerk in to keep the contents under pressure similar to how the bearing buddies work?
I did unscrew the zerk after I put grease in at 10hr service. I was concerned of pressure in there after heating up so I ran it hard and then unscrewed the zerk. About 1-2 cc squirted out under pressure. I wiped up the excess and put the zerk back. The thing with the bearing buddies is they are designed to be able to expand against their internal spring cap when under pressure from heating up. With the intermediate bearing housing the only way pressure is going to be released is to leak out the seal. Because this grease isn't for the bearing itself you just need enough in there to help keep the seal fresh. I was considering doing the syringe method as well next time around.
 

sunbyrned

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I had some grease leaking out around the sides before I took it out on the water. Is that a sign of a broken seal? It ran fine afterwards but the smell of burning grease was there. Should I try what I think you're suggesting? Unscrew the zerk and try to syringe more out of there?
 

Cambo

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Did it look like post #33 in this thread oozing out ? That didn’t seem to be a problem if water starts leaking into the boat that’s when it’s compromised. I don’t think you need to syringe it out I’m just not sure of the design needing a slight amount of positive pressure or just static grease keeping some lubricant in that area .Not sure when they changed the design and removed the rubber hose that was the easy way to know that you had the correct amount the hose would firm up there were almost no reports of that bearing failing . Looking for a used boat I came across a 2016 limited with low hours he said the only warranty item was that bearing leaking ,looking at it immediate thought was no hose no way to tell how much grease and that someone blew out the seal. This guy also ripped his moorning cover in the corner I asked how he did that “ over tightened the ratchet “ he most likely went to town with a grease gun as well .Grease guns have some good leverage to force grease in, it would be very easy to blow the seal out. I was going to buy a barbed fitting and hose to set it up like the old design but when it was checked and had nothing I did not want to wait to source the part for the barb. Jeff from cobra jet had the awesome recommendation of removing the zerk and dipping the weed line in to check the grease if you pull it out and it looks like chocolate mud your bearing needs to be replaced.
 

MidnightRider

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I had some grease leaking out around the sides before I took it out on the water. Is that a sign of a broken seal? It ran fine afterwards but the smell of burning grease was there. Should I try what I think you're suggesting? Unscrew the zerk and try to syringe more out of there?
If it were me, I would take it out run it hard and remove the zerks to see if any pressure it built up... but this is likely one of those things some of us do to make ourselves feel better and really not necessary. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ In reality, more than a few have seen small grease squeeze out of the seal and most just wipe it up and move on. Unless you see water coming in you are probably just fine. Mine came from factory with a good thick drip of grease coming from the seal (looked old) and I wiped it up and never saw any there again in more than year now. So again, no water coming in... forget about it and have fun.
 

sunbyrned

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Thanks for the peace of mind folks. I appreciate your input. Yes, mine looked just like post #35. I'll take her out again and look for water leaks and will take the zerk off to see if any needs to escape. I'll keep you updated.
 

sunbyrned

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I finally had a chance to take it out since my last post. (River and lakes have been too high since Sept 21!) There were still some globs of grease coming out that I wiped up but I saw no sign of water coming through. I didn't take the zerk off. I believe enough escaped through the sides not to worry about that step. I think I'm good. Thanks for everyone's input!
 

SeanPC

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Hi all,

Just got back from the lake and open the engine compartment for normal inspection and noticed the starboard engine intermediate shaft was leaking some milky brown liquid. I added grease to the shaft at 10 and 50 hours per the guidelines but that was dark blue in color so not sure what this might be. Does this indicate a bad bearing? Should I just add a couple pumps of Yamalube? We did cruise a lot today and water temp was 86 degrees so wondering if this is overheating? Thanks for the help!

0609191146_resized.jpg0609191147b_resized.jpg
 

latitudeadjuster

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May have broke seal being milky which says water got in your grease. Question is why you say 50 hrs....supposed to be 10 and 100? Which really doesnt make much a difference as long as the proper amount was added to the 10 and 100 pr 50 as you said.
 

tdonoughue

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Well, obviously you have something leaking. The white color is a little confusing, but may be the water mixing with the original grease put into the seal. It has been noted that there is no 'outlet' from which air (or grease) can escape in the seal, so basically when you fill these with grease you are trying to force more grease into a confined space. Air will compress to a point; the grease will not compress and will ultimately break the seal. But the point is that with grease it is not flowing around in there mixing up. Your additional blue grease may just be sitting up at the top (near the fill zerk) while a leak is mixing with the old stuff.

Now, what to do about it. How big is the leak? If you wipe it off and run it for a day (or whatever your normal use), how much is there at the end? If it is just little, I might just leave it and monitor it. If larger, then you may need to pull apart many things to to the forward seal there...
 

MidnightRider

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Hi all,

Just got back from the lake and open the engine compartment for normal inspection and noticed the starboard engine intermediate shaft was leaking some milky brown liquid. I added grease to the shaft at 10 and 50 hours per the guidelines but that was dark blue in color so not sure what this might be. Does this indicate a bad bearing? Should I just add a couple pumps of Yamalube? We did cruise a lot today and water temp was 86 degrees so wondering if this is overheating? Thanks for the help!

View attachment 96489View attachment 96490
I’d wipe it up and keep an eye on it. These bearings are sealed bearings so anything coming out of there doesn’t really indicate anything about the bearing condition- the grease is only there to keep the seal in good condition not for the bearing. As long as you aren’t getting water coming in the boat through the seal I wouldnt worry about it and just keep an eye on it.
 

SeanPC

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Well, obviously you have something leaking. The white color is a little confusing, but may be the water mixing with the original grease put into the seal. It has been noted that there is no 'outlet' from which air (or grease) can escape in the seal, so basically when you fill these with grease you are trying to force more grease into a confined space. Air will compress to a point; the grease will not compress and will ultimately break the seal. But the point is that with grease it is not flowing around in there mixing up. Your additional blue grease may just be sitting up at the top (near the fill zerk) while a leak is mixing with the old stuff.

Now, what to do about it. How big is the leak? If you wipe it off and run it for a day (or whatever your normal use), how much is there at the end? If it is just little, I might just leave it and monitor it. If larger, then you may need to pull apart many things to to the forward seal there...
This is the first time I've ever noticed it and I didn't see a pool underneath it. Going to clean it up and see how much leaks next time I'm almost to the end of my YES warranty and of course have a week boating trip planned next month.
 

tdonoughue

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This may be one of those items you just wipe and watch and add to the list for the end of your YES warranty to take it in and have them fix them all...
 

Stevenpigsooie

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Mine looks similar to yours but a little thicker drainage. I’ve wiped a small amount up a few times the past 2 seasons and so far no issues. I check it almost every time out.
 

SeanPC

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Mine looks similar to yours but a little thicker drainage. I’ve wiped a small amount up a few times the past 2 seasons and so far no issues. I check it almost every time out.
Good to know, thx! I've cleaned it up and will monitor how much I see next time out. Fingers crossed it's not enough to take to the dealership until after our Ouachita vacation next month.
 

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justason

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1591669675361.jpeg
 

sebmcadet

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FWIW, I just did my '12 242 grease, and using my harbor freight grease gun, promptly got it stuck on both zerks. You may want to invest in one of these: Amazon.com: LockNLube Grease Gun Coupler locks onto Zerk fittings. Grease goes in, not on the machine. World's best-selling original locking grease coupler. Rated 10,000 PSI. Long-lasting rebuildable tool.: Home Improvement

Locknlube grease gun coupler.
I've been browsing through the forum in search of someone that had its grease gun stuck on the zerk!!
I have two grease guns, one happens to also be a harbor freight gun! And every time I use them they get stuck on the zerk. I need to pry it out with a screwdriver, but I always fear of damaging the zerk or its fitting, as apply a lot of force on the screwdriver!

So this adapter sounds like the perfect solution. Thanks for posting!
 

captras

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HangOutdoors

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