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Yes they are and will let you know. I'm not sure how long it will take me to install everything. I'm a little nervous about it because it will be my first time and don't want to start tearing into the boat without being able to finish before putting it back in storage. I routered the edges of the amp board yesterday, drilled and rounded the edges for all the wiring pass throughs and mounted the amps and distribution block on the board. Don't think I'll get anything done today due to Mother's Day and will hopefully get back to it next weekend. I guess running all the new wires comes next and cutting out the sub hole and 2 new speaker holes. Here is hoping for good weather next weekend!
I'm knee deep into upgrade and ran all speaker wires yesterday, except I'm about 3ft short for my last tower speaker. More speaker wire on order. Today I'm running the power cables and hopefully mounting the amp board. Two quick questions regarding the amp power run from the house battery.
1. I have 0 AWG main power cable (Knukonceptz) to run from the house battery shutoff to the Audiopipe mounted on the amp board. I have removed the disconnect block in the batter compartment to attach the power cable, but never noticed the size of the main power line supplying the disconnect from the battery. Yamaha uses much smaller cable, maybe 4 or 6 AWG power cables to the switch. Is there any issue with running 0 gauge from the switch that is being fed by much smaller wire?
2. The main fuse block, again Knukonceptz, says to mount within 14 inches of the battery. The existing small main power cable from the battery to the switch is already roughly 16 inches long. The new 0 AWG power line to the fuse block will add at least another foot to that. Any issue with that?
Looking good. The factory 6awg is a very short run so it is fine but not a bad idea to upgrade it to 0 awg if you have extra while you are at it. The main purpose behind the fuse being close to the source is to protect as much if the circuit as possible. You will be just fine with what you have done.
Thank you @Mainah. Any issue running the main power and ground back to the amps along the same bundle as the speaker wire? I saw several posts with people running them through the fuel tank compartment but it seems easier to run them through the engine compartment to the starboard rear seat and back to the helm. Will the power lines cause "noise" if run with the speaker wire?
No issue running in the engine compartment. I ram in the fuel compartment to cut down on the distance. EMI is typically caused by alternators, ac current, and devices that emit radio waves. In our boats there is not much to worry about as long as you have a strong ground direct to the battery of about the same length as the positive.
Quick question: the stock head unit has RCA outs for front (L/R) and rear (L/R). I'm running to a WS420 for level control with outputs from the WS420 to my 2 amps. For the input to the WS420, does it matter if I connect to either the front or rear outs from the head unit, or do I need to combine them with a y-splitter?
Quick question: the stock head unit has RCA outs for front (L/R) and rear (L/R). I'm running to a WS420 for level control with outputs from the WS420 to my 2 amps. For the input to the WS420, does it matter if I connect to either the front or rear outs from the head unit, or do I need to combine them with a y-splitter?
Getting that, too. I was trying to hold off, but need that talk back mic, lol.
How is the tb mic working for you with those humongous Rev10s? How are the clamps?
I am looking at Icon8s vs JL 880s or 770. We are primarily surfing now...
Thanks guys. I'm in the middle ow trying to wire up the board in the mouse hole that I don't fit in! Lol
I'll let you know how they sound. Won't get to the 420 today but want to get the amps powered and label the speaker wires now that I cut off the labeled ends. That was another brilliant step.
Got it wired up to the amps without the WS420 so I could test the speakers. Definitely need to tweak the amps because the tweeters, only thing connected to the head unit, are louder then the new speakers. Good news is they all work. I'm chalking that up as a win! Off to Vegas next week and will get back at it in 2 weeks.
Getting that, too. I was trying to hold off, but need that talk back mic, lol.
How is the tb mic working for you with those humongous Rev10s? How are the clamps?
I am looking at Icon8s vs JL 880s or 770. We are primarily surfing now...
The TB mic works great. Only used it a few times but it's cool. The clamps are great. I like the swivel feature and the quick disconnect. I wet slip my boat so don't have to worry about someone walking off with the speakers. I know most people say the rev 10's are better for long distance listening and not near field but I disagree. Some days I run the sub and the rev 10's only and it sounds awesome on the boat. The sub with the ws 420 fills the bass in nicely and the rev 10's are just freaking loud and clear.
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but what is the diameter of the speaker holes ? I have a 2018 Yamaha 242 Limited S and I think they use the same size speakers as yours. Front, mid and rear speakers are the same size I believe. Lastly how much depth is available from the mounting surface of the speaker to the hull? Can I fit a speaker that is 4" deep (in front mid and rear of the boat ? Thanks in advance for the guidance if you remember any of these details
Sorry to resurrect an old post, but what is the diameter of the speaker holes ? I have a 2018 Yamaha 242 Limited S and I think they use the same size speakers as yours. Front, mid and rear speakers are the same size I believe. Lastly how much depth is available from the mounting surface of the speaker to the hull? Can I fit a speaker that is 4" deep (in front mid and rear of the boat ? Thanks in advance for the guidance if you remember any of these details
Thanks for the lead. It looks like the mounting depth of those speakers is 2.6". Wondering if we have enough clearance to fit the Revo6.5" with a mounting depth of 3.3" or even better the Revo8" with a mounting depth of 4".
Thanks for the lead. It looks like the mounting depth of those speakers is 2.6". Wondering if we have enough clearance to fit the Revo6.5" with a mounting depth of 3.3" or even better the Revo8" with a mounting depth of 4".
Best option is to pull the speaker out and check, but the molded area is fairly wide and should have plenty of room. On my 21' model, there's lots of room behind in that area as the speaker surface is angled giving about 6 inches or more behind. There's nothing behind that area except the space to the outer hull.
