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Maptuner X does save the factory program as a backup/deafult, it literally takes like 3min to reflash per engine if needed - for example no premium gas available.
Mine says 63. I had it to almost 60 with just me and my old lady with a strong tail wind. I'd say prob not but maybe they got it to 63 testing. Today with 6 adults it easily reached 50, but that was it.
I had a faulty paddle wheel on delivery and my dealer verified the new one’s functionality by spinning it up with high pressure air blast to show me it was reading speed again. Seemed a pretty common practice.
FWIW I finally got around to checking mine and it shows a max speed of 62mph. I find it hard to believe the special tune/test theory.
If they are redlining the engine before we get it, what would be the point of the special break-in procedures we are supposed to follow?
I liked Midnight2V's theory until veedubtek stuck a big hole in it. So it's still a mystery to me.
2 People, full tank and normal gear in a stock 2018 SX 195 I can dance at 50 mph pending weather conditions. I'm in salt water in the bays and ocean of Long Island so its rarely ever smooth and always dealing with 10-15 mph cross winds off the ocean or sound. Even so, GPS confirms at about 52 mph with a "normal load" in good conditions. I'm sure if I reduced the amount of fuel, gear, people and ran in pristine conditions I could be near 55. But honestly these boats are never going to be speedsters due to the physics of the jet engine (coming from a family that has boats that run triple digits). That being said the 19 footers are kinda like the VW GTI of the car world. Fast, nimble, practical do everything that can have a lot of fun without totally breaking the bank. Sure your top end isn't going to be that of a Ferrari, but the fun factor, price point and practicality is tough to beat.
I had a faulty paddle wheel on delivery and my dealer verified the new one’s functionality by spinning it up with high pressure air blast to show me it was reading speed again. Seemed a pretty common practice.
Just an FYI I’ve read a few articles now that state smooth water is not the best for top speed testing, water with small ripples in it like that under a slight breeze is. The rationale being the there is a lot more hull to water contact when the water is smooth which results in drag and slower top speeds.
Just an FYI I’ve read a few articles now that state smooth water is not the best for top speed testing, water with small ripples in it like that under a slight breeze is. The rationale being the there is a lot more hull to water contact when the water is smooth which results in drag and slower top speeds.
Any speed relating to boats is always a fight against drag (both water and air resistance). The more boat out of the water the better off you will be. That being said these boats are very light so any kind of a breeze, especially into the wind or cross breeze and play havoc with a top speed run. Perfectly smooth is probably not the best condition, but for these boats with their size and weight smooth water is better than 2 foot wakes and wind.
Most performance boaters will tell you a good 1-2' chop with limited wind and cool temperatures will be your best bet for a speed run. That being said most performance boats are just trying to keep only the outdrives in the water have hulls with steps in it designed to get more air under the hull and more weight/drag out of the water.
Any speed relating to boats is always a fight against drag (both water and air resistance). The more boat out of the water the better off you will be. That being said these boats are very light so any kind of a breeze, especially into the wind or cross breeze and play havoc with a top speed run. Perfectly smooth is probably not the best condition, but for these boats with their size and weight smooth water is better than 2 foot wakes and wind.
Most performance boaters will tell you a good 1-2' chop with limited wind and cool temperatures will be your best bet for a speed run. That being said most performance boats are just trying to keep only the outdrives in the water have hulls with steps in it designed to get more air under the hull and more weight/drag out of the water.
Good points, light chop is generally best, even wax will slow you down if you are competing for speed! It's surface tension that needs to be reduced - by scratching the hull surface, actually (microgrooves).
Keep in mind however Yamaha jet boats' intakes are way closer to the middle of the boat and a stepped hull construction is not an option as it would case the pumps to ventilate/cavitate. Loading is a big issue, as the intakes are not at the stern like in o/b jets.
Good points, light chop is generally best, even wax will slow you down if you are competing for speed! It's surface tension that needs to be reduced - by scratching the hull surface, actually (microgrooves).
Keep in mind however Yamaha jet boats' intakes are way closer to the middle of the boat and a stepped hull construction is not an option as it would case the pumps to ventilate/cavitate. Loading is a big issue, as the intakes are not at the stern like in o/b jets.
100% correct. The intake and jet pump are the real limiting factor as it forces a large section of the boat to be in the water in order to make sure the power is constant. Realistically anyone attempting to hit the top speed of their particular boat really only needs to fight against basic Physics that every performance boat runs against.
1) Reduce as much weight as possible and position any weight on the boat as far back as you can without causing cavitation (balanced weight laterally as well)
2) Reduce the drag of the hull in the wateras much as possible (either out of the water or reducing the drag coefficient of the hull in water)
3) Be as aero dynamic as possible (Bimini closed, windshield up, driving behind the windshield)
4) Get the best conditions (Closest to sea level, cool air temperatures, low humidity, cool water temperatures, minimal breeze with a little chop on the running surface to break the water tension)
Finally, don't rely on the boat speedo unless it is GPS based. Even then if you're looking to be as accurate as possible, redundancy is your friend. Doing passes in opposite directions and taking the average can also help show how much wind, current and wave shape can affect speed.
You can follow that pretty much for any boat trying to get a max speed run and getting the best possible results. Coming from someone who has driven and been around speedboats for most of my life, these Jet boats are not ideal for anything really over 60mph anyway due to the laws of physics with the jet pumps. The acceleration and immediate handling response at speed is what makes the boats fun so don't worry about he top end too much
Any issues with the tune now that you have run it for awhile? How about other mods? Did you do the crankcase filter, or ribbon delete, or cold air intake? I want to start with the filter and tune.
Any issues with the tune now that you have run it for awhile? How about other mods? Did you do the crankcase filter, or ribbon delete, or cold air intake? I want to start with the filter and tune.
In my opinion I would recommend the following in order to run a tune on a 195.
1. Ribbon delete
2. K&N CAI routed near the rear vent
3. Engine Breather Filter
4. Lucky 13 cone
5. Fizzle Intercooler
6. Dedicated cooling line
7. MapX Tune
This is at least my plan of attach. I want to make sure the engine is breathing good and as cool as possible before increasing the rev limiter. This year I’m tackling 1 - 4 and next year 5 -7. My wife caps my annual boat budget.
Any issues with the tune now that you have run it for awhile? How about other mods? Did you do the crankcase filter, or ribbon delete, or cold air intake? I want to start with the filter and tune.