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210 FSH trolling motor mount pics?

Yea get the 6061.
Also anyone looking for batteries I went with Global Power LLC on eBay. $327 for lifepo4 100ah 12v marine battery with a good warranty made in TN. I’m not affiliated but it’s the best deal out there I have found.
 
Yea get the 6061.
What Quake said......

6061 was what I went with

6061 Aluminum Plate (6061ASHT625)
Size: .625
Quantity: 1
Width: 6.5
Length: 20
Price: $42.44
Item Total: $42.44
 
Old thread but I thought I'd add what I did since I didn't go the aluminum route. Instead I opted to only mount a quick release bracket (Motorguide universal) and I did it closer to the middle of the boat. Then I made an epoxy support (created a plaster cast -> silicone mold from cast). Only thing left is paint the epoxy support so it doesn't look so janky.

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Able to get 5 out of 6 screws in.

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Motor stem sits 2.5" from boat.

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Also anyone looking for batteries I went with Global Power LLC on eBay. $327 for lifepo4 100ah 12v marine battery with a good warranty made in TN. I’m not affiliated but it’s the best deal out there I have found.

Got a link to their store by chance? I can't find any global power with batteries listed.

Thanks!
 
are you able to just use a metal grinding wheel for the 6061 aluminum? I wanted to round the edges but don’t have any special grinding wheels for aluminum.
 
are you able to just use a metal grinding wheel for the 6061 aluminum? I wanted to round the edges but don’t have any special grinding wheels for aluminum.
Definitely. Or a flap disc works great too and a little less aggressive.
 
You guys didn’t tell me this was going to be involved in the TM install!
 

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Lol I took the speaker out instead!

Yeah, that would have been easier. For reference, I’m 6’3” 230#. Taking the seat off did help. When I remount that beast I’ll try the speaker trick. I’m not excited about the gap caused by the Velcro strap, they should have included washers, or at least recommended them since they force you to gap the install with the strap.
 
Yeah, that would have been easier. For reference, I’m 6’3” 230#. Taking the seat off did help. When I remount that beast I’ll try the speaker trick. I’m not excited about the gap caused by the Velcro strap, they should have included washers, or at least recommended them since they force you to gap the install with the strap.
Yeah the Minnkota quick release mount I got had a groove routed in for the strap. I want to say it's the same footprint as the Terrova series.
 
No clue. If it was not listed earlier in the thread it was not recorded. Custom one off.
 
I used stainless, I think 1/4". More important, I used nylon locking nuts that vibrated loose. Added loctite on the second try. No loose nuts 3 years later.
 
This /\

Phillips head but they are actually stainless steel bolts. I also used loclite.
 
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Stainless with fender washers and locktite on the nuts/screws 4200 under plate to fill in gaps.
 
So I took some measurements today. Started by removing the port side navigation light and sure enough there was a thick section under the deck. Took a pair of body fat calipers and measured it at 23mm. Found it interesting so I removed the starboard navigation light and sure enough it was 20mm thick. Then I measured the thickness beside the anchor locker and it was 3/4 inches or 19mm thick. One observation is that the extra thickness does not extend past the curve where the fiberglass is hull thickness from the bend at the deck to the rub rail, so I will move the mounting holes back a half inch or so to ensure I'm bolting thru the thick section.
How did the finished product work out for you? I’m thinking of doing the same for the install of a MK Ulterra. Should balance out the boat better.
 
I have all my wires running thru the same spot. Then a battery switch in the glove box. I have trolling motor under the gunnel. I only need to unplug the trolling in the event the trolling motor needs replaced or service.
 
Mocked up the bracket today. Decided not to go with either the factory mount or the factory location. Decided to mount on the starboard side after some deliberation. I didn't like the factory position because the motor stuck out too far and I was worried about banging it on a dock or something. Also my boat already lists to port and didn't want to add to the problem. I really wanted to use the stock position because it's compatible with my cover, but my bride assures me she can sew on a new pocket. So advantages to mounting to starboard are the weight and balance. Since the steering wheel is on the port, it gives slightly better visibility. Also I'm right handed, so it'll make it easier for me to raise and lower the motor. The only disadvantage I could think of was that it could be in the way of casting, but I dont see that as a real problem. Went ahead and ordered a piece of 5052 aluminum 0.5x6.75x17 from Midwest steel supply.
View attachment 165815
I was wondering if you could send pics of the completed install. How did it go with the hull thickness and how did you mitigate the problem. Do you have any advice what I need to watch out for? Is there anything you would have done differently? I apologize in advance for bombarding you with these questions. Your responses are valued and greatly appreciated.
 
So different boat and I had it put in the standard port side location with factory mount which I think is adequate. I had dealer install the trolling motor but he did not include the little support bracket in the middle of the shaft. I added it after 1 day watching the head bounce up and down. I really don’t think any mount would last long term with the way it bounces with the weight on the end of the shaft. I haven’t seen it in other pictures so I don’t know if it is a part of most installs but I highly recommend it.
PS if you use the quick release bracket you can replace the cotter pin with small padlock. This will make it a little harder for a thief to quick release it.
cheers
Randy
IMG_39401.jpeg
 
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