3D Printed Boat Stuff

[kgower]

Maybe some CF-12 Nylon would be strong enough for that kind of application? Not sure how many have the setup to print nylon though - it's pretty tricky and need a high temp extruder and enclosed printer.

Thanks. I know nothing about 3D printing. I ordered some cooler tie downs that are similar. Would prefer to have another set of the originals but can't even seem to find a part number. Probably not sold separately. A replica set would be my second choice. Will probably end up installing the ones I ordered.

 

[Yoda715]

Yea, that kind of weight would likely stretch the limits of most pro/consumer 3D printers designs and filaments. Your best served by using some sort of metal piece on that. We can't print with metal on these consumer level printers....yet

 

[Flawed212X]

Would someone like to 3D print a pair of dog bones for the 200lb ballast sacks used by the 19's?
Would it be strong enough?
How much would it cost?
See photo as reference.

If you are looking to buy a metal one, what you are looking for is "footman loop" and they are cheap enough to not bother printing it. Hopefully that saves you some googling.

 

[kgower]

If you are looking to buy a metal one, what you are looking for is "footman loop" and they are cheap enough to not bother printing it. Hopefully that saves you some googling.

Bought this cooler tie down kit, hope it does the trick.
Amazon.com : Cooler Tie-Down Strap Kit Buckle Lashing Straps 22 Pieces for Compatible with YETI RTIC Coolers Keep Coolers and Prevent Skids in Ship Deck Truck Chassis Trailers : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Yoda715]

I've created my own version of Bruce's Air Panel, link here. Full credit to him for the idea and inspiration

For mine, I needed it to be a bit larger, and the lid to completely cover the base to keep water/dirt out. I also wanted to leverage inter-swappable parts, as I may upgrade to a higher pressure pump down the road. So I designed this project to use threaded inserts, and also compression nut/tube connectors so as to easily replace those fittings with no glue needed.

I also did not want any moving parts (hinges) as those in my experience are apt to break and difficult to repair. So for mine I leveraged a TPU (flexible, like rubber) strap to connect the base and the lid. If it breaks, a new one can be reprinted and fished through the base and reconnected to the lid.

Here is my OnShape project document for it: Boat Air Port Project. It's available for anyone to use or modify to their desire. I will not be creating/selling it, so if you don't have the capability to 3D Print your own, Bruce has what you need here.

Word of advice: keep the distance between the pump and your location for this panel to as short as possible. The further away the two are the more air the pump has to move, and thus more strain, more heat, and ultimately less volume of air moving.

Anyhow, that's it from me for now. Thanks again, Bruce, to the great idea!

 

[Bluewater272]

Very cool! I would love to figure out something like this for my dual stage SUP pump. Would need to move the display and controls somewhere, too.

 

[Yoda715]

Very cool! I would love to figure out something like this for my dual stage SUP pump. Would need to move the display and controls somewhere, too.

Yep, that's something I plan to expand to as well down the road. I'd likely have to make a larger base to support moving those additional controls. Not to mention selecting the right pump where those controls are able to be moved. I saw one SUP pump where it had the controls built into the handle. That seems like a good candidate pump where the control board is likely attached via a ribbon cable that could be lengthened.

 

[RightStuff]

I had an idea if someone wants to design it for me...
The feet on the anti-pooling poles leave marks in the flooring (SeaDek, carpet, Marine mat, etc). How about something that fixes that issue by distributing the pressure better?

 

[Bluewater272]

Nothing exciting, but I bought a new showerhead for the boat and needed a little lanyard end to help pull it out of the hole. Modified the Yamaha logo a little to accept paracord, and softened the edges so it doesn't poke you.

 

[Yoda715]

I had an idea if someone wants to design it for me...
The feet on the anti-pooling poles leave marks in the flooring (SeaDek, carpet, Marine mat, etc). How about something that fixes that issue by distributing the pressure better?

Small piece of plywood?

 

[The Canuck]

Small piece of plywood?

or a rag folded up. Thats what the previous owner of our boat did.

 

[RightStuff]

Small piece of plywood?

I have some old pieces of hydroturf under each 'foot' right now, just annoying extra step when putting the cover on. Figured a cool 3d printed piece would be better.

EDIT: Saw something like this as an option: Canopy Pole Foot but a larger base (thinking 4-6" diameter) and flat on the bottom.

 

[Babin Farms]

I had an idea if someone wants to design it for me...
The feet on the anti-pooling poles leave marks in the flooring (SeaDek, carpet, Marine mat, etc). How about something that fixes that issue by distributing the pressure better?

I have the top piece that held the straps from the last cover poles that I put on the bottom of the bow pole. Works great. The rear pole sits in the table hole in the floor.