Alumacraft Hacked!!

[shaddad]

After a month of trying to contact them, I finally got an email response from Alumacraft. I was correct, something serious has happened there: They’ve been HACKED! I received an email yesterday (9/1/22) with the following text:

“Please accept our apology for the delayed response. BRP has been a victim of an external cybersecurity attack resulting in a companywide system shut down during the recovery period. Currently many systems (including the phone lines) are still not accessible for teams within the company.”

On about 8/24/22, I posted that I think I may have water between my hull and my deck because the boat appears to weigh 485 pounds more than it should, based on the weight listed in the boat specs. Here is what Alumacraft said about that:

“As stated before he only information they could provide is the following.

It's really hard to find an area to check to see if the foam is saturated with water. It does happen. Once water gets into the foamed area if it can drain and isn't trapped. The bilge pump will pump the water out once it reaches the back of the boat.”

As you can imagine, I am not very happy with that response since it is of no help. Today, I drilled a hole in the deck with a 1 ½ inch hole saw. As I suspected, the foam is saturated with water.

I tried, once again, to call Alumacraft for guidance. Their customer service number is still disconnected. Their main number has an option for customers, but when you push that button you get a recording that tells you to send them a letter or an email. Color me ticked off!

I believe I have 2 options: 1) Using my hole saw, drill a number of holes in the deck and use a dehumidifier to try to dry out the area under the deck. 2) Use a skill saw to cut out and remove the entire deck (it is welded on). Obviously, #1 is much less radical, but I am not sure it will work. It will be tricky to cut out the entire deck without cutting into the cross supports which lie directly under the deck. With either option, I will have to do some substantial repair work to finish the job. I am thinking PC7 to replace the holes or glue the deck back, on depending whether I choose option 1 or 2.

I could use some suggestions from members of this board. Help!

 

[AZMark]

I think you’re stuck with #2 for any type of long term fix. Some of that water will never come out.

You can pour in new 2 part foam once you get the floor out. I need to do this on an old boat I have so I can sell it with a clear conscience. It’s currently a “sinker” as someone on another board once told me.

 

[BrandonG]

What year is the boat? If its newer I'd reach out to the dealer if applicable.

Of your solutions you're only addressing the problem at hand now, but why did it happen? As if by chance you were to dry it out, is it just going to get water intrusion on your next trip(s) out?

 

[drewkaree]

Do you have any idea if it's open or closed cell foam? Not sure how much is in there, but I don't think the dehumidifier is going to give satisfactory results

If it's open cell foam, you'll likely never get all the water out without removing it, closed cell, you may have a shot if you can find the main pools.

Doing holes in the deck will be hit or miss, I really don't see any option other than your second idea. If you do go that route, I would completely remove all of the foam, and pour new, like @AZMark suggested. They make a slow-rise pourable foam for wall cavities that may work, but I don't know if it's open or closed cell, and if you are redoing this, I'd only recommend closed cell.

Any pics?

 

[BlkGS]

One of our suppliers was hacked recently, they lost a ton of data and have added a ton of extra risk to our business.

The way the US handles cyber security is shameful. If you broke in somewhere and stole millions of dollars in cash or products, it'd land you in prison forever anywhere but CA. But if you hack someplace and cause that much in damage or ransom, virtually nothing happens. Kinda crazy to think that if a foreign power blew up or blockaded a factory, we'd probably go to war. But if they hack it and shut it down, we just ignore it.

 

[tdonoughue]

I am betting it is open foam; otherwise it would not really be soaked (and certainly not that much). I don't think that the holes will work. I think you are down to taking out either major squares of the deck or what you proposed for #2 in order to get enough replaced to clean up the mess. And then you need to find a closed foam to replace it...

Alternative would be to leave it (hope it don't grow mold or something) and add extra closed foam somewhere to make it so the thing won't sink if you have a bilge problem. I guess.

Spit balling here...

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

In your other two Alumacraft threads I made a suggestion that you join the Alumacraft owners facebook page, Alumacraft Boat Owners. Have you done so? I ask because I have found a wealth of information on these boats at that site and other members have been very quick to answer any question that I have posted.

I'm sure there are folks there who have dealt with similar issues. I know I have read posts from folks who had rebuilt old wooden framing and decks in their boats.

Jim

 

[dan144k]

I do refrigeration service for work. We pressure test with nitrogen. And then run a vacuum pump to remove moisture from the piping system.
1. Is the area suppose to be sealed? Could you fill it with dry air (nitrogen) and would it hold say 5psi of pressure.
2. If it is sealed could run a vacuum pump and suck all the moisture out.
3. Heat will help to get rid of moisture. Turns it into a gas. Can you heat the area safely.

 

[AZMark]

TotalBoat Flotation Foam - 2 Part Expanding Polyurethane Marine Pour Foam for Boat Floatation, Insulation and Soundproofing (2 LB Density, 2 Gallon Kit) https://a.co/d/b7qOI9Z

 

[Jim_in_Delaware]

Here's an interesting 20 minute video on how Alumacraft boats are made

You can see the pour foam beginning at 16:55

Jim

 

[zipper]

After a month of trying to contact them, I finally got an email response from Alumacraft. I was correct, something serious has happened there: They’ve been HACKED! I received an email yesterday (9/1/22) with the following text:

“Please accept our apology for the delayed response. BRP has been a victim of an external cybersecurity attack resulting in a companywide system shut down during the recovery period. Currently many systems (including the phone lines) are still not accessible for teams within the company.”

On about 8/24/22, I posted that I think I may have water between my hull and my deck because the boat appears to weigh 485 pounds more than it should, based on the weight listed in the boat specs. Here is what Alumacraft said about that:

“As stated before he only information they could provide is the following.

It's really hard to find an area to check to see if the foam is saturated with water. It does happen. Once water gets into the foamed area if it can drain and isn't trapped. The bilge pump will pump the water out once it reaches the back of the boat.”

As you can imagine, I am not very happy with that response since it is of no help. Today, I drilled a hole in the deck with a 1 ½ inch hole saw. As I suspected, the foam is saturated with water.

I tried, once again, to call Alumacraft for guidance. Their customer service number is still disconnected. Their main number has an option for customers, but when you push that button you get a recording that tells you to send them a letter or an email. Color me ticked off!

I believe I have 2 options: 1) Using my hole saw, drill a number of holes in the deck and use a dehumidifier to try to dry out the area under the deck. 2) Use a skill saw to cut out and remove the entire deck (it is welded on). Obviously, #1 is much less radical, but I am not sure it will work. It will be tricky to cut out the entire deck without cutting into the cross supports which lie directly under the deck. With either option, I will have to do some substantial repair work to finish the job. I am thinking PC7 to replace the holes or glue the deck back, on depending whether I choose option 1 or 2.

I could use some suggestions from members of this board. Help!

Based on the overweight number of 485#. There is around 56 gallons stuck in there, that is a lot of water. I have a similar maybe lesser issue with a 37 yo 18' Boston Whaler. The foam on and around the fuel tank under the sole (floor) is wet. I trailer this boat and have been drying it out since we bought it. In my case there are 6-8" dia. removable deck plates I can open on a hot dry day. I jack up the trailer and put the jack on a 6x6 block. Every day there is a little bit, couple oz's of water to remove from the stern deck opening with a sponge.
I do this to remove as much as I can before Winter temps freeze the trapped water and start popping things. Shortly I will park inside for the Winter and open the 5 deck inspection covers and cover with an inverted 5 gallon pail with water remover hung inside the pail. Something like this... No Damp Hanging Moisture Absorber & Dehumidifier Bag, 16 oz. | West Marine
But that could get expensive if I had 56 gallons to remove. And need to check those bags frequently.
These deck inspection plates would be better than 1 1/2" holes. Pry-Out Deck Plate, 8

Sidebar...I drill the rudder of our sailboat every Fall to drain the trapped water in it before it freezes and pops the rudder. I use the same hole every year and plug it with 4200 every Spring.

Edit:





You can see the condensation on the fuel tank vent hose.