Best anchor for sandy bottoms?

[blacksapphirez]

box anchor does not work for soft sand bottoms such as Bimini... needs more surface area to bite

 

[haknslash]

I gotta say I've had great success with the deluxe danforth this week at the beach. It has held my boat in 15-20 mph winds and rough surf earlier in the week without it breaking loose. It's not the strongest bite but it seems to hold good and we didn't end up having to use the box anchor to help hold the boat. It's no mantus or fortress though.

 

[troybox]

Well, I have definitely figured out that the FX7 will not fit in a 10-14 242 anchor locker...at least not in the danforth mount.

Its not the width (although I would have to spread out the mounts for that too) its the length of the spine that is the show stopper. With a little finagling I can get it in there sideways.

Will be trying it out this weekend to see if its worth the hassle.

 

[jdonalds]

While I'm not a big fan of the Danforth anchor in general I would say a sandy bottom is where it shines.

 

[TPABoatGrl]

Well, I have definitely figured out that the FX7 will not fit in a 10-14 242 anchor locker...at least not in the danforth mount.

Its not the width (although I would have to spread out the mounts for that too) its the length of the spine that is the show stopper. With a little finagling I can get it in there sideways.

Will be trying it out this weekend to see if its worth the hassle.

Did that Fortress end up fitting in the anchor locker without a lot of hassle? I’m looking into the Fortress for my 2016 242x. Assuming the locker is the same size as previous years.

 

[troybox]

Did that Fortress end up fitting in the anchor locker without a lot of hassle? I’m looking into the Fortress for my 2016 242x. Assuming the locker is the same size as previous years.

Very impressed with the fortress’s performance this weekend. Set right up both times I used it. It’s a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to fit into my anchor box as I have to put it in sideways, but not to bad once you have the technique.

But the 10-14 anchor box is different than the 2016+. I believe other posts where it does fit with minor crossbar modifications are for your anchor box. But someone with a newer boat might have to jump in to confirm.

 

[TPABoatGrl]

Very impressed with the fortress’s performance this weekend. Set right up both times I used it. It’s a bit of a jigsaw puzzle to fit into my anchor box as I have to put it in sideways, but not to bad once you have the technique.

But the 10-14 anchor box is different than the 2016+. I believe other posts where it does fit with minor crossbar modifications are for your anchor box. But someone with a newer boat might have to jump in to confirm.

Thanks for the information. I looked back in previous posts and it does seem that a slight modification is needed to fit in the locker, but if the anchor works that well, may be worth it!

 

[BBottoms]

I just put an FX7 in mine. The crossbar does need to be trimmed about 1/2" to fit but that's easily done. On mine the anchor was just a hair too long and hit the bottom of the locker. I relocated the hangers up about 1/2-3/4" and it hangs perfectly now. I don't thith the hangers are placed with much precision from the factory so some boats may be fine stock. I had to remove the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the anchor locker door because it wouldn't close with them on but replaced with some weather strip material I had. Hangs perfectly and securely now. There's no way it can bounch out of the hangers unless the door opens up.

I've only been out 3 times since I've had the anchor and anchored maybe 8 times. It's only failed to set once, and I honestly didn't get enough rode out for the depth. Otherwise it's set quick and held great everytime in a lake with everything from soft mud to rock ledges. Admittedly limited experience but love it so far. I was fighting with my old fluke anchor 50% of the time in the same conditions.

I can get some pictures of the anchor locker tonight if needed.

 

[TPABoatGrl]

I just put an FX7 in mine. The crossbar does need to be trimmed about 1/2" to fit but that's easily done. On mine the anchor was just a hair too long and hit the bottom of the locker. I relocated the hangers up about 1/2-3/4" and it hangs perfectly now. I don't thith the hangers are placed with much precision from the factory so some boats may be fine stock. I had to remove the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the anchor locker door because it wouldn't close with them on but replaced with some weather strip material I had. Hangs perfectly and securely now. There's no way it can bounch out of the hangers unless the door opens up.

I've only been out 3 times since I've had the anchor and anchored maybe 8 times. It's only failed to set once, and I honestly didn't get enough rode out for the depth. Otherwise it's set quick and held great everytime in a lake with everything from soft mud to rock ledges. Admittedly limited experience but love it so far. I was fighting with my old fluke anchor 50% of the time in the same conditions.

I can get some pictures of the anchor locker tonight if needed.

I’d like to see the anchor locker pix if you take any. I’m not super handy, but if it’s an easy fix I can try it!

 

[BBottoms]

I’d like to see the anchor locker pix if you take any. I’m not super handy, but if it’s an easy fix I can try it!

I have no before pictures, just afters, but should give you an idea what's needed. Hardest part about the whole thing was holding the hardware in place on the backside to remove/reinstall the hangers. I ended up dropping one of the nuts which disappeared into the abyss between the outer hull and interior fiberglass and had to use one from some leftover hardware I had for another install.

Here's the overall pic and a close up of the hanger post-relocate. I found some 1/2" rubber caps at Lowes for the ends of the crossbar to help protect the side of the boat as much as possible from any accidental hits when pulling the anchor up. They've held tight through half a dozen anchorings now and even if I lose one they're $1 per package of 4. It's hard to get a picture of the bottom of the anchor locker, but the FX7 now clears the bottom by 1/4-1/2". Before I moved the hangers up it hit on the bottom and wouldn't seat all the way in the hangers, which was a perfect recipe to punch a hole through the hull. As previously mentioned I also had to cut about 1/2" from the FX7 crossbar so it would sit down in the hangers. Took 2 minutes with a hacksaw and then a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean it up.


Here's showing the hanger in it's new location and you can see part of the original holes to give an idea how far I moved it. I not only moved it up, but aft as well, which lined it up better with the brace/hold down on the bottom of the anchor locker door. Factory didn't line up well at all and the little rubber bumpers were clearly hitting at an angle, not centered on the crossbar of the anchor.


Here's the backside where the machine screws come through to give you a better idea of how far it moved. I reused the factory 1/4" fasteners so I used a 1/4" drillbit. If I was hanging anything heavy in there I'd probably fill the old holes with epoxy or similar just to be safe but I'm not worried about it with a super light anchor.


Lastly, the factory rubber bumpers on the bottom of the anchor locker door brace would no longer work as they didn't have enough 'squish' and hit the cross bar in it's new, higher location which kept the door from closing. I removed them and was comfortable with the cross brace holding the anchor in place as close as it now was but went ahead and added small pieces of adhesive backed epdm weather seal I had left over from another project. Should all but eliminate any moving or rattling of the anchor.

 

[TPABoatGrl]

I have no before pictures, just afters, but should give you an idea what's needed. Hardest part about the whole thing was holding the hardware in place on the backside to remove/reinstall the hangers. I ended up dropping one of the nuts which disappeared into the abyss between the outer hull and interior fiberglass and had to use one from some leftover hardware I had for another install.

Here's the overall pic and a close up of the hanger post-relocate. I found some 1/2" rubber caps at Lowes for the ends of the crossbar to help protect the side of the boat as much as possible from any accidental hits when pulling the anchor up. They've held tight through half a dozen anchorings now and even if I lose one they're $1 per package of 4. It's hard to get a picture of the bottom of the anchor locker, but the FX7 now clears the bottom by 1/4-1/2". Before I moved the hangers up it hit on the bottom and wouldn't seat all the way in the hangers, which was a perfect recipe to punch a hole through the hull. As previously mentioned I also had to cut about 1/2" from the FX7 crossbar so it would sit down in the hangers. Took 2 minutes with a hacksaw and then a wire wheel on a bench grinder to clean it up.
View attachment 76475 View attachment 76478

Here's showing the hanger in it's new location and you can see part of the original holes to give an idea how far I moved it. I not only moved it up, but aft as well, which lined it up better with the brace/hold down on the bottom of the anchor locker door. Factory didn't line up well at all and the little rubber bumpers were clearly hitting at an angle, not centered on the crossbar of the anchor.
View attachment 76476 View attachment 76480

Here's the backside where the machine screws come through to give you a better idea of how far it moved. I reused the factory 1/4" fasteners so I used a 1/4" drillbit. If I was hanging anything heavy in there I'd probably fill the old holes with epoxy or similar just to be safe but I'm not worried about it with a super light anchor.
View attachment 76477

Lastly, the factory rubber bumpers on the bottom of the anchor locker door brace would no longer work as they didn't have enough 'squish' and hit the cross bar in it's new, higher location which kept the door from closing. I removed them and was comfortable with the cross brace holding the anchor in place as close as it now was but went ahead and added small pieces of adhesive backed epdm weather seal I had left over from another project. Should all but eliminate any moving or rattling of the anchor.
View attachment 76479

Thank you this is really helpful, appreciate the pictures and details.

 

[hobineros]

The fx7 will fit in a 2016 242. Just grind off like half an inch of the top bar. Its alot easier than jacking around with screws , them shits are a pain in the ass lol

 

[TPABoatGrl]

The fx7 will fit in a 2016 242. Just grind off like half an inch of the top bar. Its alot easier than jacking around with screws , them shits are a pain in the ass lol

Did you need to trim off .5” from each side of the bar, or .5” all together?

 

[Beachbummer]

I use 20# Navy anchor plastic coated. A pain to carry sure to the weight, but holds great!!!

They are cheap too.

Accompanied by 6ft stainless chain. Can't beat it, works in all surfaces.

 

[Emptytemples]

For sand and mud, any type of fluke anchor that is not the slip ring kind works best. That slip ring that comes with the yammies is junk imo. You can find cheaper galvanized anchors online or west marine by boat size. I have two fluke anchors in my boat for OCMD one small that just fits in the front locker and one large that we have under starboard rear seat.

For grassy or bottoms with branches, that is a different story. I haven't had much luck with the flukes holding me at Lake Wallenpaupack.

 

[Beachbummer]

I agree the fluke design is superior in sand, but if you don't mind the weight, the navy anchor style is compact and will hold in every bottom type!

 

[hobineros]

I've bent my stock yamaha anchor and I've lost a couple fx7s on the bottom of deep water. Pulled the rope in half trying to yank it up. New braid both times. Lol. I'm not sure what is worse... wasting anchors or occasionally having to reanchor.

The fx7 did pull on me a few weekends ago but it was a squall line that blew us right out of anchor. Typical waves never bother.

 

[T. Turner]

I got a Mantus anchor last year and i couldnt be happier with it. Several times it held us all day long in gusting winds. The only problem i have had with it was pulling it back up once. Lol.

 

[zipper]

I've bent my stock yamaha anchor and I've lost a couple fx7s on the bottom of deep water. Pulled the rope in half trying to yank it up. New braid both times. Lol. I'm not sure what is worse... wasting anchors or occasionally having to reanchor.

The fx7 did pull on me a few weekends ago but it was a squall line that blew us right out of anchor. Typical waves never bother.

A little info from a "Stress Free Sailing" book on anchors/anchoring.



Attach a "tripping line" to the trippimg eye in the crown of the anchor. Attach a buoy on the other end, I set ours at about 25' max., adjustable, based on the scope, 7:1, and length of chain and rode we have, that will mark the location of the anchor and provide a line to grab to pull the anchor out backwards. If you are not wrapped around something.





I know, it is something else in the anchor locker to keep sorted out, but IMO better than losing anchors/chain/rode.

Edit: We use a 24# Delta Plow style on the Beneteau and a West Marine 8# Galv fluke, Danforth style, modified to hang in the locker on the Yamaha.

 

[jEt_jAk]

FX-7 but won't fit in the anchor locker on The 19fts