Better Floor Locker Door now!

[subysti]

Well the one I used is a discontinued part number I found out. I just had it laying around. You can go to any auto parts store and get a strut with a 18"-19" inch throw and you should be good. My stock strut was 15" and another 3" was all I needed.

Yea yea I'm ready for all the " I only needed 3" jokes here........

 

[Evil Sports]

Will this work? http://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-G22-Gas-Prop/dp/B002XM3G9A

 

[Kennc]

Can't say it won't, but it is only 20lbs. The one I took off (stock from factory) was 45lbs. I was trying to decide between the 40lb and the 60lb.

http://www.amazon.com/RV-Designer-G...pebp=1434911721516&perid=18HB75G0Y0PWKMKV11D6

The G23 is what I have.

 

[Kennc]

REVISED - The G23 model (20 inches) maybe too long.

It opens the hatch to the point where it is pressing against the wind dam guide. It put pressure onto my Seadek.

Might not be an issue with carpet, but I am contemplating solutions.

 

[Kennc]

Update - Picked up the G16 -17inch and 40lbs. Still pushed the Seadek into the wind dam guide.

Too darn hot to work on it any more today, but I think I am going to trim down the wind dam guide.

 

[Evil Sports]

For $16 is worth a shot. burning a $20 in this hobby......

 

[subysti]

I guess I never looked at the carpet being pushed in to that. The one I used is a lighter pressure so it may not matter. It holds the door open once its open but it will close on its own once its past halfway. I might need more pressure but it works and it was free.

 

[tdonoughue]

Still pushed the Seadek into the wind dam guide.

I think you have a typo. Didn't you mean "the dam wind guide"?

 

[trace]

I fixed this on my 2012 212ss by moving the bracket on the door itself and using the factory strut, then filled the old holes with 4200, no new strut required, 1 beer job, cost $0.

 

[Evil Sports]

So you waited till I spent the $16 to tell me this

 

[trace]

Sorry Evil, I didn't see the thread until yesterday.

 

[webbug]

Sorry Evil, I didn't see the thread until yesterday.

Can you share pics showing the new location of the bracket?

 

[trace]

Sorry @webbug I don't own that boat anymore, we bought a Tige Z1 and sold the Yamaha earlier this year. It's easy enough to locate though. I just removed the bracket screws then stood the door up where I wanted it and then used the bracket still attached to the strut to mark the new hole locations.

 

[webbug]

Sorry @webbug I don't own that boat anymore, we bought a Tige Z1 and sold the Yamaha earlier this year. It's easy enough to locate though. I just removed the bracket screws then stood the door up where I wanted it and then used the bracket still attached to the strut to mark the new hole locations.

It's okay and thanks for the tips

 

[CAM212SS]

@trace what a brilliant idea. Just unscrew the bracket... open the door to straight up and down and screw the bracket back in. This is 100% better now. thanks very much

 

[webbug]

Changed the location of the bracket

 

[trace]

Good job fellas, now you can get stuff in and out of that center locker. No idea why it isn't mounted like that in the first place.

 

[Murf'n'surf]

Did the screws bite into the wood core?

 

[CAM212SS]

seems to me that the core was all pvc / fiberglass if that makes since ... i pre-drilled the hole a bit to get the screw started and all the shavings were white

 

[biglar155]

If you're ever trying to do that kind of work and find you've drilled into a hollow core and can't get a screw to bite, here's something you can do:

Drill the hole a little bigger than you wanted. Bend a small nail at 90 degrees, chuck it into the drill-motor and use it to hollow out a small cavity (you're cleaning out core material). Then mix up some epoxy and use a syringe to fill the hollow you created. Let it cure and then you can drill the hole you want and you'll have something solid to drill (and screw) into.