Changing Yamaha Jet Boat Pump (Duct Housing) Bearings and Switching to Oil Bath Lubrication

[FLJetBoater]

Yeah Harbor Freight / Northern tools are my close friends. My medium press gets used regularly. Used it on BMW suspension parts last week. You can never have too many tools or spares for things that break and are often on back order. Plan on cleaning the housing and polishing the seal area on the driveshaft with 3k and 5k pads before putting it back together.

I may have to get a spare driveshaft and impeller to put on the shelf for a rainy day. Babbits was saying Yamaha backorder until mid May-June for these impellers and shafts.
I have always had spares for the jet skis and used them at least once a season... teenagers are good at running items thru the pump on a regular basis.

Wow good to know. I also have a press and rebuilt my 2014 pumps a long time ago. If the back order is that long I may order spares as well

 

[madtom]

Anyone that does this on a regular basis thought about making a block of metal as a press assembly tool predrilled for the .91 inch / 23mm setup for the front bearing?

I spent like 2 hours of my time getting it exactly on 23mm +/- .1mm. It kept overshooting by like half a mm lol.

With this tool, place the drive shaft in the hole, and press the front bearing until it hits the block.....done. Then put spacer and press outer bearing on....done. and the shaft offset wouldn't change... would have saved me some time.... I will use the spacer behind the impeller to help with sizing the hole on top and bottom.

I'm gonna hit the local machine shop with a CNC to see how much they would charge me for this. I am figuring it would be doable in aluminum or steel for the press i have.... would be able to keep the dimensions after use. I currently used 3x6 lumber pieces with a hole for the driveshaft to sit in. Putting the assy in the freezer overnight before final assy worked. It was so much easier to put the second pump together.

 

[madtom]

So I finished up the pump install and got everything together. Just a little bit of grey RTV in between the housings to seal everything up. I put stainless plugs in the cap so next year I will be able to inspect without breaking the cap seal. EPNOC grease on the bearings and the caps and a mixture with gear oil in the spacer. Cranked the engines to see if the noise was different..... this boat used to have a rattle in one engine thru the drivetrain. Now it is much quieter. We will see once i get it on the water.




I got everything back together and the steering seems tight. I will rig up tube to inject gear oil tomorrow.

 

[cjnapier]

Getting ready to tackle this. I’m going to try the no-press method I think. Probably a stupid question but is it possible to do the bearing and seal swap without removing the impeller? I suppose it would be difficult to measure the .91” and not sure how I’d install the seals since they go on last with the freeze and heat method. Wishful thinking? Current condition below. The darker oil (starboard jetpump) had more water it seemed and that impeller sounds a little rough when spinning. Impellers and housing in good shape overall. Not sure if I’ll replace the port bearings as well. Depends on how the process goes.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Getting ready to tackle this. I’m going to try the no-press method I think. Probably a stupid question but is it possible to do the bearing and seal swap without removing the impeller? I suppose it would be difficult to measure the .91” and not sure how I’d install the seals since they go on last with the freeze and heat method. Wishful thinking? Current condition below. The darker oil (starboard jetpump) had more water it seemed and that impeller sounds a little rough when spinning. Impellers and housing in good shape overall. Not sure if I’ll replace the port bearings as well. Depends on how the process goes.
View attachment 176429View attachment 176430

I tried the no press mode. The next day I bought a press harbor freight had a decent one that’s more than sufficient for this job and it was like $150 or something. If I can buy a tool to do a job and the tool costs less than the labor fee for the job at the dealer then I add it to my collection

 

[madtom]

Getting ready to tackle this. I’m going to try the no-press method I think. Probably a stupid question but is it possible to do the bearing and seal swap without removing the impeller? I suppose it would be difficult to measure the .91” and not sure how I’d install the seals since they go on last with the freeze and heat method. Wishful thinking? Current condition below. The darker oil (starboard jetpump) had more water it seemed and that impeller sounds a little rough when spinning. Impellers and housing in good shape overall. Not sure if I’ll replace the port bearings as well. Depends on how the process goes.
View attachment 176429View attachment 176430

unfortunately you need to remove the impeller and pull the shaft to the front as the way the bearing housing is formed their is a metal lip that the oil seals sit in.

 

[cjnapier]

Doing this now and have a question. The shaft comes out back to front right, not front to back? So pressing on the threaded shorter end but not the shaft spline? And then it would be the opposite to get the bearings and seals off? This seems opposite from the original post that said front to back and then back to front but the directions on page 4 seem to show back to front out of housing. Thanks

 

[Bruce]

Doing this now and have a question. The shaft comes out back to front right, not front to back? So pressing on the threaded shorter end but not the shaft spline? And then it would be the opposite to get the bearings and seals off? This seems opposite from the original post that said front to back and then back to front but the directions on page 4 seem to show back to front out of housing. Thanks

The bearings come off of and go onto the nearest end which is the threaded end.

 

[cjnapier]

The bearings come off of and go onto the nearest end which is the threaded end.

Thanks so much! And shaft out of housing pressing on short end?

 

[Bruce]

The press must have been on the spline to press the shaft and bearings out of the housing. Otherwise I would have left the impellers on.

 

[madtom]

Doing this now and have a question. The shaft comes out back to front right, not front to back? So pressing on the threaded shorter end but not the shaft spline? And then it would be the opposite to get the bearings and seals off? This seems opposite from the original post that said front to back and then back to front but the directions on page 4 seem to show back to front out of housing. Thanks

If you press out front to back ... the bearings will be on the shaft and will come out together

If you press out back to front after removing the nut on the shaft... the shaft comes out of the housing and then you use bearing puller to pull out the bearings and seals. This is the way the service manual describes pump disassembly for my 2019 FSH 210 with the 155mm pumps.

Service manual makes all of this a lot easier. I'm on my second manual as one of our dogs thinks he is a smart ass and will grab things when you are not looking. He took the manual while I was pressing pump number two back together. I came back to the boat and the manual was no longer up on the back of the boat. I looked around for 15 minutes thinking I had misplaced it. I found him and his brother on the back deck going to town with what was left. He totally destroyed chapter 7-8 and the wiring diagrams in a 5 minute time. He has a thing for paper products. Over the years he has eaten a jeep repair manual , a Kawasaki jetski service manual, a couple of HS text books, 4 of my Army boots, 6 outdoor couch pillows, like a dozen of my wife's shoes, and probably over 50 toilet paper rolls... He will steal it...being all proud strutting around....and then his big brother will bully him and take it from him. Then they will play tackle football with it while I chase them. His brother ate one of my Army hats.....and we had to do surgery to get the rest of it out. They are like big toddlers but always happy to see you at the end of the day or go on a boat ride with you.

 

[cjnapier]

Successfully completed port side pressing out with bearings on shaft. The main issue I had was the press coming off the garage floor when trying to press the new bearings on the shaft. I heated them a bit and that helped. Original placement was definitely more than .91” so I pressed a bit further than original. Also, no need for the vise as I followed the double axle trailer method… came loose way easier than I expected. The kit I bought included an o ring for the inside bearing past the seals but before the washer but my setup didn’t have one originally and I don’t see how it would have sealed anything in the placement shown a couple of pages earlier on this thread. The o ring was wider than the washer.

 

[cjnapier]

Ok the middle of doing the starboard side. Here’s what’s going on with my housing. Looks like this side has been refurbished before and I’m wondering if someone knocked out the seat for the seals when removing the old seals. This side seemed to be in decent shape so should I seat the seals at the right depth and proceed?

 

[madtom]

Ok the middle of doing the starboard side. Here’s what’s going on with my housing. Looks like this side has been refurbished before and I’m wondering if someone knocked out the seat for the seals when removing the old seals. This side seemed to be in decent shape so should I seat the seals at the right depth and proceed?View attachment 176848View attachment 176849

Looks like old grease at the bottom. I would wipe down with shop towel, and start the reassembly as per Bruce's 1st post. When you put the oil seals back in the inner one seats the on that lip on the impeller side.

 

[madtom]

Successfully completed port side pressing out with bearings on shaft. The main issue I had was the press coming off the garage floor when trying to press the new bearings on the shaft. I heated them a bit and that helped. Original placement was definitely more than .91” so I pressed a bit further than original. Also, no need for the vise as I followed the double axle trailer method… came loose way easier than I expected. The kit I bought included an o ring for the inside bearing past the seals but before the washer but my setup didn’t have one originally and I don’t see how it would have sealed anything in the placement shown a couple of pages earlier on this thread. The o ring was wider than the washer.
View attachment 176807

if it was a normal rebuild kit the oring that comes in the kit is for sealing the cone there is a groove for it.

 

[cjnapier]

Thanks. The issue is there is no lip for the seal to sit on. What looks like old grease (greenish ring) is rough exposed steel from what I believe was where the lip for the seal used to be attached. I knew something felt different when cleaning it, then realized what was going on when installing the seals. Everything is back together and seems fine but it seems there is now a gap between the back of the seal and the inner bearing, of whatever thickness that lip was. The o ring was a mystery second o ring. I got the kit from SBT

 

[madtom]

Thanks. The issue is there is no lip for the seal to sit on. What looks like old grease (greenish ring) is rough exposed steel from what I believe was where the lip for the seal used to be attached. I knew something felt different when cleaning it, then realized what was going on when installing the seals. Everything is back together and seems fine but it seems there is now a gap between the back of the seal and the inner bearing, of whatever thickness that lip was. The o ring was a mystery second o ring. I got the kit from SBT

When I pulled apart mine I took pictures.


Mine looks a little different from yours. I don't know what the machining differences are between your pump series and the ones on the FSH210. Mine uses the 22mm drive shaft. I think maybe whoever rebuilt it last got enthusiastic with their pressing. Must have pressed the hell out of it to rip off the aluminum shelf. I can see the difference. from the picture it looks like their is just a little lip left on one side. As long as you can put the seals in the right spot to provide seal to the shaft they will do their job.

As you can see from the picture of mine not much of a gap from the seals to where the bearing sits on the other side. In the meantime you could look for a used one to have a spare.

I already have a set of bearings and seals sitting aside just in case. my end goal is to also get a shaft /pump/impeller unit from a wave runner someone is parting out. They are out there just have to be patient. I saw a chart somewhere that matched up the different pump units from the wave runners to the boats. Some of the twin engine boats had different pitch between SB and Port pumps. It is the same part number on both sides for me.

My latest drama is bird related. So we have this pair of Osprey's that keep wanting to make the top of my boat their "Love Boat". I have been discouraging them as much as possible.....



and currently there is a teddy bear tied up on top of the boat that looks like he has claimed it..



It has kept the Ospreys away for two days. Once we start using the boat every couple of days we will be ok.

 

[Johnq36]

Pulled the pumps as part of my pre-season maintenance. planning on converting to oil bath as that will make my maintenance a little less user intensive. I am replacing seals and bearings as this boat started life with PO in brackish/salt. Port pump was no issues but now has new seals and bearings so starting from a blank slate. Starboard had shifted the shaft a tiny bit back and the seals were toast.... not a lot of water in the grease but it was getting in there.... what was left of the inner seal on the shaft kept most of it out....there were mineral deposits all over what was left of the front seal and the bearings were just a little rough. glad I caught this in time. used a brass brush to clean most of the deposits out but will need to clean it out again tomorrow before assembly.
View attachment 174666View attachment 174667View attachment 174668

What trick was used to get them out?
I’ve been trying with no progress

 

[madtom]

What trick was used to get them out?
I’ve been trying with no progress

once steering and reverse buckets are disconnected, pulling the pumps..... they came out easy once the bolts circled in blue are pulled.



I have a 12 ton press I use that I got from harbor freight. Once I take the nut and loosen the impeller I pressed the driveshaft out from the rear and then pulled the bearings out. best guidance I can give you is to use the service manual. Chap 6 is your friend for pump maintenance.

 

[Johnq36]

once steering and reverse buckets are disconnected, pulling the pumps..... they came out easy once the bolts circled in blue are pulled.

View attachment 179631

I have a 12 ton press I use that I got from harbor freight. Once I take the nut and loosen the impeller I pressed the driveshaft out from the rear and then pulled the bearings out. best guidance I can give you is to use the service manual. Chap 6 is your friend for pump maintenance.

View attachment 179629View attachment 179630

Thank for the info