CNC hobbyist

[Can0n11]

Nice!

 

[fatboyroy]

What I learned so far 1. Dog silhouette I need to use smaller router bits 2. Bubba letter I need to use bigger bit cause this took 2 1/2 hours lol 3. The depth is 1/4” I should do 1/8” next time.

 

[2kwik4u]

@fatboyroy

For the large letters, I would use 2 bits. One really large one for fast material removal, then a secondary smaller bit to clean up the details. Think of it like a "rough" pass, then a "final" pass.

Also, chip loading is a 3 dimensional parameter. It refers to how much material each revolution of the bit takes away. You have depth of cut in both the X-Y plane as well as in the Z-Axis. The stepover (or distance you cut in the Z-Axis) on each "pass" will affect how much you load that router head. Same as the depth of cut you take in the X-Y plane. You'll want to mess with these settings to find the right mix of quality vs time to cut. Some software will let you control this dynamically throughout the cut. I think Fusion360 has this capability. If you are cutting along a defining edge you'll want to reduce your step down, if you're out in the middle of a field you can sometimes increase it. Also things like helical entries into the material will help keep a consistent chip load. Working on these MMR (maximum Material Removal) rates is an entire field of study with big reaching implications in industry. For your use, it'll just make your pieces come out with crisper edges, and less wait time

Also, look into the difference between a traditional milling and climb milling. It will help with keeping those little splinters off the edge on your profiles.

 

[fatboyroy]

@fatboyroy

For the large letters, I would use 2 bits. One really large one for fast material removal, then a secondary smaller bit to clean up the details. Think of it like a "rough" pass, then a "final" pass.

Also, chip loading is a 3 dimensional parameter. It refers to how much material each revolution of the bit takes away. You have depth of cut in both the X-Y plane as well as in the Z-Axis. The stepover (or distance you cut in the Z-Axis) on each "pass" will affect how much you load that router head. Same as the depth of cut you take in the X-Y plane. You'll want to mess with these settings to find the right mix of quality vs time to cut. Some software will let you control this dynamically throughout the cut. I think Fusion360 has this capability. If you are cutting along a defining edge you'll want to reduce your step down, if you're out in the middle of a field you can sometimes increase it. Also things like helical entries into the material will help keep a consistent chip load. Working on these MMR (maximum Material Removal) rates is an entire field of study with big reaching implications in industry. For your use, it'll just make your pieces come out with crisper edges, and less wait time

Also, look into the difference between a traditional milling and climb milling. It will help with keeping those little splinters off the edge on your profiles.

Thanks for the tips, I have a lot more to learn but I started with slower speed in very little increment to see how the bits work, I think in the the letter it has to pass 50 times to get to 1/4 deep. I still do not know how to do the secondary small bits for clean up cuts, I seen that on youtube but I dont know how to do that in my machine yet (will play around to see if I can figure it out).

Oh by the way I was holding the vacuum cleaner for 2 1/2 hours and vacuum every few minute lol. I'm thinking of buying car vacuum (the handheld one) and put a hose to attach to the spindle, I can then turn it on and off and I dont have to point it anymore.

 

[2kwik4u]

@fatboyroy check out @Can0n11 pics. He has a vacuum attachment on the head of this unit.

Now that you have a router up and going, you can make your own custom shaped brackets to hold the vacuum attachment

 

[fatboyroy]

@fatboyroy check out @Can0n11 pics. He has a vacuum attachment on the head of this unit.

Now that you have a router up and going, you can make your own custom shaped brackets to hold the vacuum attachment

I saw it and yea thats the plan, will go to home depot on my work break

 

[Sbrown]

Thanks for the tips, I have a lot more to learn but I started with slower speed in very little increment to see how the bits work, I think in the the letter it has to pass 50 times to get to 1/4 deep. I still do not know how to do the secondary small bits for clean up cuts, I seen that on youtube but I dont know how to do that in my machine yet (will play around to see if I can figure it out).

Oh by the way I was holding the vacuum cleaner for 2 1/2 hours and vacuum every few minute lol. I'm thinking of buying car vacuum (the handheld one) and put a hose to attach to the spindle, I can then turn it on and off and I dont have to point it anymore.

Switch to a down spiral bit to prevent the tear out and splintering on the top surface.

Also, a normal and very doable depth of cut in hardwoods like sugar maple, walnut, wenge and the like, is about 1/8" at a time with a carbide router bit. Plywood like you're using you should be able to do the full 1/4" depth with little problem.

 

[fatboyroy]

Switch to a down spiral bit to prevent the tear out and splintering on the top surface.

Also, a normal and very doable depth of cut in hardwoods like sugar maple, walnut, wenge and the like, is about 1/8" at a time with a carbide router bit. Plywood like you're using you should be able to do the full 1/4" depth with little problem.

Thank I will check my bit I’m not sure what I’m using. Here’s the finish product I thought I was going to trash it and get a better wood but after sanding and torching to give it some rustic touch I think it’ll do. On to the next project I just got some Pine wood from Home Depot

 

[2kwik4u]

Switch to a down spiral bit to prevent the tear out and splintering on the top surface.

Also, a normal and very doable depth of cut in hardwoods like sugar maple, walnut, wenge and the like, is about 1/8" at a time with a carbide router bit. Plywood like you're using you should be able to do the full 1/4" depth with little problem.

Aren't all spiral bits "downward" if you spin the spindle in the other direction?

 

[fatboyroy]

Anyone have any idea how to change bit mid carving? This will take 6h47min with 1/32“ bit if I use bigger bit in settings the parachute chord disappear.

 

[2kwik4u]

Anyone have any idea how to change bit mid carving? This will take 6h47min with 1/32“ bit if I use bigger bit in settings the parachute chord disappear.View attachment 166496

Make two files.

Make the first file for the larger bit. Change bits, change files and rerun.

You need to enable something called "rest machining" to allow you to only remove the portion left behind by the bit before it. This is an option within Fusion 360/Autodesk products. Your software might not allow it. A "work around" is to setup the first 3D file with exceptionally large radii, and mimic what would be left from the first cutter, then use a smaller cutter on that piece.......if that makes sense.

Shoot me a STEP file and I'll workup a toolpath for you in Inventors CAM plug-in and explain better. 2kwik4u-at-gmail

 

[fatboyroy]

Make two files.

Make the first file for the larger bit. Change bits, change files and rerun.

You need to enable something called "rest machining" to allow you to only remove the portion left behind by the bit before it. This is an option within Fusion 360/Autodesk products. Your software might not allow it. A "work around" is to setup the first 3D file with exceptionally large radii, and mimic what would be left from the first cutter, then use a smaller cutter on that piece.......if that makes sense.

Shoot me a STEP file and I'll workup a toolpath for you in Inventors CAM plug-in and explain better. 2kwik4u-at-gmail

Ok I will download fusion 360 auto desk. Not sure how to generate step file let me play around maybe I can figure out

 

[fatboyroy]

I can only download NC and SVG file from Easel I can’t open either one in auto desk fusion 360

 

[2kwik4u]

I can only download NC and SVG file from Easel I can’t open either one in auto desk fusion 360

NC files should be just text.

Not sure what an SVG is. I'll look into it when I get back to a PC.

 

[Can0n11]

pretty easy to use.

I self taught myself fusion 360 and found it intuitive after using it a bit. I started out step by step following along in my fusion 360 from the tutorials. I may be easily amused but I like watching the tool paths as it simulates cutting your part or design . That feature is pretty useful for determining if my final cutting or drilling depth is correct.

Another thing you can do is set up your post process to take a fine cut off your surface which makes rough wood look better. I use it to level my spoilboard. a much easier way might be to use a planar if you have one . I use this bit and take 1/3 to 1/2 dia. passes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071748JQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

All these details-good stuff though.

Here are genmitsu 3DP files for misc. including dust collector:

https://www.yeggi.com/q/genmitsu+dust+shoe/

If you want to tweak and mod your setup, lots of videos on that too! You definitely wan to have a non flexing z axis.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=genmitsu+cnc+3018+z+axis+mod

You can really go down the rabbit hole with this DIY stuff.

 

[fatboyroy]

pretty easy to use.

I self taught myself fusion 360 and found it intuitive after using it a bit. I started out step by step following along in my fusion 360 from the tutorials. I may be easily amused but I like watching the tool paths as it simulates cutting your part or design . That feature is pretty useful for determining if my final cutting or drilling depth is correct.

Another thing you can do is set up your post process to take a fine cut off your surface which makes rough wood look better. I use it to level my spoilboard. a much easier way might be to use a planar if you have one . I use this bit and take 1/3 to 1/2 dia. passes.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071748JQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

All these details-good stuff though.

Here are genmitsu 3DP files for misc. including dust collector:

https://www.yeggi.com/q/genmitsu+dust+shoe/

If you want to tweak and mod your setup, lots of videos on that too! You definitely wan to have a non flexing z axis.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=genmitsu+cnc+3018+z+axis+mod

You can really go down the rabbit hole with this DIY stuff.

Thanks Canon I will binge watch tonight!

 

[Sbrown]

Aren't all spiral bits "downward" if you spin the spindle in the other direction?

No, there are up spiral bits and down spiral bits.

Edit: Upon re-reading, I realized that you may have been joking around....

 

[Sbrown]

Anyone have any idea how to change bit mid carving? This will take 6h47min with 1/32“ bit if I use bigger bit in settings the parachute chord disappear.View attachment 166496

I dont know your software, but in Vectric all you do is add clearing bits to the toolpath you create when converting the CAD file to a CAM file. The program will automatically create as many toolpaths as needed for whatever bits you choose to use. If you want to use 10 different clearing bits before the final detail bit, it'll add the toolpaths automatically. The machine will stop between files to allow you to change bits.

 

[fatboyroy]

I dont know your software, but in Vectric all you do is add clearing bits to the toolpath you create when converting the CAD file to a CAM file. The program will automatically create as many toolpaths as needed for whatever bits you choose to use. If you want to use 10 different clearing bits before the final detail bit, it'll add the toolpaths automatically. The machine will stop between files to allow you to change bits.

Thanks I will download vectric too

 

[tim h]

Ok it’s officially working lol need to pick up the learning curve on this. The red button is the kill switch on my machine. Here some test I didView attachment 166358View attachment 166359View attachment 166360

Typically in work-holding, you would put a block under the back side of the clamp just taller than the piece you are holding to cut.