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Cobra Jet Ultimate AK install 2018 242 XE.

Liftr

Jet Boat Addict
Messages
182
Reaction score
270
Points
122
Location
KY
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
I just installed my kit on a 2018 242 XE. I ran into some trouble and sent Jeff, @Cobra Jet Steering LLC , an email at 2100L. After an exchange, he wound up calling to help me at 2130L on a Friday night. Fantastic customer service.
My boat has (had) the nozzles turned inward for “Surf Pointe”. My nozzles were not evenly matched from the Factory.
I ended up having to disconnect the steering cables, and setting them with almost straight alignment. I went with the 1/8” toe-in recommendation at the end of the instructions.
The frustrating part, is to disconnect the steering rods, you have to remove the spring from the right side of the nozzle/reverse bucket. ie. uninstall the right side fin.
Then I centered the steering wheel, and laid a straight edge across the back of the nozzles. Spin the turn buckles until they line up and reinstall.
The first pic shows the kit’s tie rod (at minimum length) was not going to fit on the AK rudder, with the factory settings.
In the top left corner, you can see the bolt going thru the steering cable turn buckle. You can also see how it is trapped in position by the fin’s coil spring apparatus.
Second pic shows the straight edge laying on the CJ fins, pushed up against the nozzles.
Last two pics show the different adjustments on the steering rods.
 

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We took the boat out for its maiden voyage today. All in all, it was a success; no breakdowns, and no scratches!
The boat tracked straight at speed, but wandered too much for my liking at No Wake speeds.
I was able to launch and retrieve the boat onto the trailer on the first approach attempt. No current, and no wind.
I also was able to dock with some helping hands. I don’t feel like I have enough authority in reverse.
That said, I will be buying the Mega Fangs to complement The Ultimate fins. I guess I’m too accustomed to having an outboard prop for control.

Now, I have some general questions for the collective:

I tried to fill the ballast bags, but no luck. I heard the pumps turn on and run for ~20 seconds. They stopped with the bags indicating 0%, 22%, 45%. The bags were COMPLETELY EMPTY. I could not get the pumps to ever turn back on.
I tried the FILL ALL, DRAIN ALL, but never heard the pumps again?

Today was the “break in” day, so the RPM’s never got over 6000. While cruising at planed speed (25 mph) any time I turned to the right, I could hear cavitation from the pump(s)?
Never when accelerating in a straight line, or turning left.
Who has an explanation for that?

Also, when we pulled the drain plug at the end of the day, it drained for a solid minute. I had stopped to open the engine cover looking for water several times in two hours. You can almost see the drain plug from the cockpit, and I never saw any measurable amount of water. And I never saw the bilge pump kick on.
We never swamped the swim deck, but there was 2” of water standing on the clean out plugs also.

Now, I’m going to celebrate with a beverage, and wait for you guys to answer all my questions!?
 
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Contrary to what a lot of people think, water does not make it to the second platform but rather comes up through the clean out tray drain which is just below the swim deck on the transom. That's likely where your water on top of the clean out plugs came from.

I'm not familiar with the X boats but I want to say there is a ballast ball valve or seacock to open inside the engine compartment.
 
@haknslash , thanks for the reply. Surprisingly, The dealer did not mention a ball valve during delivery.
I did look for one, but there was not an obvious valve that I could see. I will look harder today while the engines are cool.
And, there is no good guidance about the ballast system in the owners manual.
 
@haknslash , thanks for the reply. Surprisingly, The dealer did not mention a ball valve during delivery.
I did look for one, but there was not an obvious valve that I could see. I will look harder today while the engines are cool.
And, there is no good guidance about the ballast system in the owners manual.
Left (starboard) side of engine bay, it’s a blue (I think) handle sticking out near the bottom of the engine. Pull up to open the valve. Follow the ballast hoses, it’s pretty obvious once you stick your head down there.

Also, someone said in the Connext settings there’s an option to calibrate the ballast. I haven’t gotten that far yet.
 
Left (starboard) side of engine bay, it’s a blue (I think) handle sticking out near the bottom of the engine. Pull up to open the valve. Follow the ballast hoses, it’s pretty obvious once you stick your head down there.

Also, someone said in the Connext settings there’s an option to calibrate the ballast. I haven’t gotten that far yet.

Not sure about 24' boats but my (212x) boat has two valves. One in the engine bay for the back tanks and one in the ski locker for the ski locker bag.
 
Not sure about 24' boats but my (212x) boat has two valves. One in the engine bay for the back tanks and one in the ski locker for the ski locker bag.
24’ only has one intake. I believe the 21’ has 2 intakes. That seems nuts to me... 3 pumps all pulling from a single intake, I don’t get it.
 
24’ only has one intake. I believe the 21’ has 2 intakes. That seems nuts to me... 3 pumps all pulling from a single intake, I don’t get it.
I wonder if Connext would freak out, or even notice if a person plumbed in additional intakes to the individual pumps. If it didn’t care, that could be a huge advantage in efficiency.
 
Once you get the valves open you will need to calibrate the ballast pump controllers. On my Connext I hold down the Sys Ctrl button for 5 seconds to get into the menu for ballast calibration. Sounds like on your Connext model you tap and hold the "gear" settings icon.
Check out this post which may be helpful.

OK, so here's the deal on calibrating the ballast for the 12.3" Connext.....
 
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I wonder if Connext would freak out, or even notice if a person plumbed in additional intakes to the individual pumps. If it didn’t care, that could be a huge advantage in efficiency.
That should work, If you adjust the timing on individual pumps?
I wouldn't invest too too much until you see what works for you on the water.
For example, may end up using only the swim deck bag and center locker?

 
24’ only has one intake. I believe the 21’ has 2 intakes. That seems nuts to me... 3 pumps all pulling from a single intake, I don’t get it.
I found the black handle, on the black valve, with the black hoses, sitting outboard of the black starboard engine.
Good times.
You guys are the best!
 
I’m picking up the same boat next week (2018 242 X). What nozzle settings should be looking for to make sure it is set up properly? What would the measurement from the centre of the keel be to the adage of the nozzle?
 
On my 242, the inlet/outlet for the pumps is visible from the bottom. Note though that is is about 1/2 blocked by the starboard bunk. It's the only through hull down there, so it's pretty easy to spot (even though it is 1/2 covered). Go figure on that placement.

Calibrating will take about 15 or so minutes, and it can only be done in the water with at least one engine running. I find it's best to do with just me on the boat as I like to open the cabinets. Also note that on my boat, the port side bag only fills about 1/2 full and can't be adjusted any more. I think this is because of the battery placement.
 
I’m picking up the same boat next week (2018 242 X). What nozzle settings should be looking for to make sure it is set up properly? What would the measurement from the centre of the keel be to the adage of the nozzle?
Jeff from Cobra Jet told me that for a straight alignment, The Articulating tie rod should be 12.25 - 12.5” from centerline of the bolts.
 
After 3 trips, I decided to add the Mega Fangs To my Ultimate fins. I wanted all the control possible since I plan to trailer my boat all the time to different lakes and rivers.
I’m thankful I did this mod. The low speed docking ability is greatly increased, and the steering wheel forces at high speed are also decreased.

The install was easy, as you only have to remove the side force stabilizer to get the new stabilizer in place. I manually lifted the reverse bucket completely out of my way, and secured it up with a wedge to give me room to work.
The only complaint I have, is the instructions could be more clear on the side force stabilizer.
I’m pretty mechanically gifted, but I had to study it, and watching the videos was better than the paper.

That said, I’m completely satisfied with the product!

Thanks,
@Cobra Jet Steering LLC
 
Thank you for sharing your experience it is certainly appreciated and please me know if anyone sends you nasty pm's regarding your post.
 
My factory steering nozzle casting broke this weekend.
My first, and only, warning signs were an alarm: “Check engine, contact Yamaha”.
The port engine was stuck in Reverse, according to Connext; in disagreement with throttle position.
I shut down and got in the water to check. The steering nozzle was hanging by the steering cable rod, reverse actuator, and Cobra Jet steering tie rod.
I was able to keep that motor running, and ease my way back to the dock.

A daytime inspection revealed the lower mounting bolt was gone, and the upper portion of steering nozzle damaged.
I “suspect” that the lower bolt worked loose, and all the pressure was then left to the upper bolt.
The upper bolt and bushing are still snugly in place in the outlet of the jet pump, but the “boss” in the steering nozzle is completely broken out.
1474C75D-EF18-42CD-973A-B50F7823F4EF.jpeg02D4F729-4562-4B80-BB7A-7F32F8EB01B7.jpeg1B7B98E4-9AF6-445F-8CD8-16DC9BB23785.jpeg
 
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Do you have lateral thrusters? I didn’t think that model Cobra used that lower bolt anymore. Same thing happened to me a couple years ago on my old boat and older style Cobra fins. I didn’t have enough loctite on the bottom bolt. Just curious if you think it’s related to the fins or stock install.
 
Do you have lateral thrusters? I didn’t think that model Cobra used that lower bolt anymore. Same thing happened to me a couple years ago on my old boat and older style Cobra fins. I didn’t have enough loctite on the bottom bolt. Just curious if you think it’s related to the fins or stock install.

I do not have lateral thrusters.
The CobraJet fins have been installed for just over a year and 75 hours.
My initial thought is that the lower bolt worked loose first, and the resultant stress broke the casting around the remaining upper bolt.
Installing The Fangs require you to remove the lower bolt, and reinstall. I did use Blue LocTite, per the instructions.
This scenario can only be attributed to my installation.

A less likely scenario, is where the upper boss broke first, and the resulting vibrations worked the lower bolt loose.
I do not subscribe to this theory.

Disclaimer: I worked my way through college as a machinist, so I have been witness to a bunch of broken stuff!
 
I do not have lateral thrusters.
The CobraJet fins have been installed for just over a year and 75 hours.
My initial thought is that the lower bolt worked loose first, and the resultant stress broke the casting around the remaining upper bolt.
Installing The Fangs require you to remove the lower bolt, and reinstall. I did use Blue LocTite, per the instructions.
This scenario can only be attributed to my installation.

A less likely scenario, is where the upper boss broke first, and the resulting vibrations worked the lower bolt loose.
I do not subscribe to this theory.

Disclaimer: I worked my way through college as a machinist, so I have been witness to a bunch of broken stuff!
Yeah, common(ish) occurrence for that bottom bolt to fall out then break the top when you hit reverse. That’s what my old ones did. I’ll have to get back to checking my current boat. Last season, I checked all the steering bolts every time out. Gotten a bit lax on that lately. I have the same setup you do.
 
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