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Distribution block

Jaylex

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
392
Reaction score
170
Points
127
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
Im looking at making a small change that likely requires changing my distribution wiring, and I came across this one and wanted to know if anyone has heard of it before. Looks pretty slick.

I need a 0 gauge input, and 4 4gauge outputs and this fits the bill with the digital voltage. The other option has no voltage which is fine too since I can check that on the connext screen. The digital version is double the price of the non digital.

81GHnAsSJFL._SL1500_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/GROUND-DISTR...8&sr=1-83&keywords=distribution+block+0+gauge



81-mQWsxIoL._SL1500_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0W5MG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
 
No need to pay double for the digital voltage as it really won't help at all. I'm using something similar and it seems to work just fine. Just remember you will need to fuse the this for amps at the 0 gauge end for the total amps being distributed and make sure each 4 gauge wire coming out is fused for that lines amperage as well to be safe. A 0 gauge input with 4 of the four gauge outputs is a lot of power so just make sure to play it safe.
 
You really need a fused distribution block, or fused each wire. 0g and 4g require different fuses. These work great.
Screenshot_20180502-065107_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
Just remember you will need to fuse the this for amps at the 0 gauge end for the total amps being distributed and make sure each 4 gauge wire coming out is fused for that lines amperage as well to be safe. A 0 gauge input with 4 of the four gauge outputs is a lot of power so just make sure to play it safe.

What do you mean by play it safe....I'm prob close to 290 amps on the 0 gauge which I've told is fine (not dangerous but close to pushing it) so I'm def open to suggestions.

I have all JL 0 gauge for both power and ground.

Just need to find the right blocks to use for each.

I like the one @Mainah has....but maybe the simpler one is better....I doubt I check the voltage from the block ever. But would just look at connext.
 
You really need a fused distribution block, or fused each wire. 0g and 4g require different fuses. These work great.
View attachment 73388

Can I not just fuse the 0 gauge directly with a larger fuse to protect it all.

I'm not as familiar with actually doing the work since boat is not local and having the shop do the install.
 
Ideally you should fuse for what the wire can have. If you have a 400+ a fuse on 0 gauge, you could burn up 8 gauge and cause a fire without popping the 400a fuse. That's why they do house wiring like they do. Big wire to a fuse panel with additional fuses gauged for the wire size. Otherwise you would just run off the main breaker. Make sense?
 
Yes....is there such a block that has what I need so I only need 2 of them...one for power and one for ground.

I want to simplify it if possible.
 
Click the picture in my post above. Just use a bolt for the ground. It doesn't look as pretty but works 100%.
 
Here is what I’m using. Stinger SPD5625 PRO Series Maxi Fused Power Distribution Block with Two 4 Gauge Input and Four 8 Gauge Outputs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IVY6KU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ipS6AbNTXHMNC
I had a single 4 gauge wire for 2 jl amps originally. When we added the third amp we just ran another 4 gauge wire so I have two 4 gauge coming in. I have a single 250 amp anl fuse at the batteries and each amp is individually fused at the block.
The fourth output from the block is powering my second accessory fuse panel.
Blue Sea 5025 ST Blade Fuse Block w/Cover - 6 Circuit w/Negative Bus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TXHD7K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hoS6AbH3E7HGM
 
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Yes....is there such a block that has what I need so I only need 2 of them...one for power and one for ground.

I want to simplify it if possible.

On a boat, you want as much fusing as possible, and this is another way to protect the wire. There have been several good options here. Remember a fused block can still be used for ground, you just need a jumper or dummy fuse.
 
I like either the JL or Stinger blocks that have the fuses integrated.

Since I'm ordering equipment ahead and sending it directly to the shop for install I wanted to make sure I grab the right stuff.

I'll probably grab a non fused block for the ground since it doesn't need to be fused if I understand correctly.
 
I vote Stinger solely for the ANL fuse... Maxi fuses suck in my experience. I am actually surprised JL is still offering them. Also note you can go much higher amperage, if needed, with ANL.
 
The one I linked earlier is a 4 way fuse block for the +12 VDC side a 4 way unfused ground distribution for the other. Really not all that complicated. The voltage display is cool but the real reason I choose it is everything is in one package. The only down side is that the cover is held on by tiny screws so if you do need to change a fuse you will need to have a screwdriver handy. lots of choices and I don't think any choice that gives you a fused option per channel is bad.
 
@Mainah so your saying the audio-pipe block you have would be able to handle both the power and ground distribution in one.

If thats the case I think its the solution...two ques...does the voltage indicator turnoff when you cut the batteries off at the switches. And how do you feel about the older style fuse?

I dont know much about these but see what @adrianp89 mentions about the other fuse types.

Im ok with forgoing that concern if it can handle both duties in one package, and it looks slick as well.

Not sure if having two separate blocks makes sense, unless those fuse styles are more prone to blowing (not sure)
 
To be honest AGU fuses are not my favorite but they work and they are cheap. Just get gold or platinum ones. The Voltage display gets its power and ground from the mains input (no extra wiring for it) so when the batteries get shut of so does it as long as your main is switched at the batteries. It was the all in one package that I likeed ckeeping things neat along with the led indicator behind each fuse that with a blown fuse does not light up. My only real complaint again is the way the cover is attaches. The fact it looks kind of like something out of a timeless delorian movie car did not hurt but I would buy for function before looks.
 
Hows this work....same audiopipe block that has both ground and power, BUT with AFC fuse types vs the AGU.

I looked and it seems the AFC fusees also have higher ratings, and I will be running 3 amps with 80a fuses, and 1 with 50a fuse.

So as long as I find the right fuse ratings this should be the ticket?


upload_2018-5-4_10-39-45.png

51u8iZWkqEL.jpg
 
No idea what AFC fuses are, but sure looks like you could use miniANL with that block.

EDIT: AFC=MiniANL.... you found your self a winner.
 
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